306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

Sound good in the video,is it running a decat

Nout wrong with part hording,I should know I got a shed full of shinies

Any updates on the bodies??

(18-12-2014, 02:28 PM)7057sam Wrote: [ -> ]Sound good in the video,is it running a decat

Nout wrong with part hording,I should know I got a shed full of shinies :lol:

Any updates on the bodies??

Nope, just a low mileage oem cat on at the moment, although when it's eventually bodied I'll probably decat it to preserve the cat 

As for bodies, I've got rallye aux setup to fit, fit epas as the current pas pump location fouls the trumpets 

I've got a complete spare engine for trial fitting parts so hopefully the actual fitting will be straight forward 

Ah cl always wondered which would be less of a ball ache to do a epas or relocating the pas pump as was a bastard to do on my charger,snapped the bolt which hit me in the face

Then used to leak,guess it goes across instead of straight down,so any tiny leak would be put under more pressure

I'm mostly going for epas so if I blow it up I'll still have power steering to get it on the back of a recovery truck haha

Still no throttle bodies, but I have been hoarding nile stuff haha

That looks really really purple in those pics!

Good hoarding though man

(08-01-2015, 01:03 PM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: [ -> ]That looks really really purple in those pics!

Good hoarding though man

Yeah nile looks totally different in artificial light, I love it. The massive halogen lights at petrol stations are the best for purple gti6 haha 

Hello again! 



After a few months of gathering dust at the back of the unit it's probably about time I got the 6 ready for summer  


Changing jobs and training for another job hasn't given me much time to do anything to it but the "to be fitted" pile has been ever growing  


Latest purchase as a motivational piece to renew my insurance 





On that topic, after dropping the front 60mm the mcphearson strut design has left me with a bit of positive camber on the front so hoping to reset to standard castor and camber just with the lower ride height if anyone happens to have the specs handy?? 

Castor as much as you can, camber about -0.5 is standard. Slight toe in, say 3 minutes. Lower it goes you'll get more toe in.

I thought you'd get negative camber from lowering it...?

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Oh and check the rear toe/camber just in case the beam isn't on straight. Not unknown.

Ah cool, from talking to baker bm reps at pugfest the adjustable strut tops have a certain amount of extra castor for high speed stability iirc 



I don't think it has gone to actual positive camber but compared to a standard height gti6 you can certainly see the difference in angles. 


I did have thought about the beam when I swapped it so had four wheel laser alignment to check and it's pretty spot on  

Our beam changing skills are faultless did we fit solid beam mounts? i cant remember

(08-04-2015, 08:35 AM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: [ -> ]Our beam changing skills are faultless did we fit solid beam mounts? i cant remember

Yep, this car is a driving advert for the baker bm catalogue with all the solid and adjustable bits

(08-04-2015, 08:37 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: [ -> ]

(08-04-2015, 08:35 AM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: [ -> ]Our beam changing skills are faultless did we fit solid beam mounts? i cant remember

Yep, this car is a driving advert for the baker bm catalogue with all the solid and adjustable bits

The way it drives makes it a good advert though

Got the 6 up on the ramp to see what it's looking like underneath since last summer, fortunately caught this just in time! 

Kinda suspected it might have needed attention since the other side needed welding but luckily this side was still solid 

I'll pick up some oxide primer and underseal tomorrow and sort it properly  

Oooooo nice

Mmmm crusty blurple

Im free saturday afternoon if my undersealing skills are required

Ahhhhh rust fwends

Mine went in exactly the same place.

I've had to tidy my dt up on them bits at the moment. Common place for them to go, the 306s are starting to show there age now

A few thread pages back I needed to weld the other side and at that time the passenger side was fine. Soon as there's a hole in the underseal it seems those box sections start rotting. Just glad I caught this side before it needed welding too

Lowering should increase negative camber (make it lean in at the top more)

Stocked up on wire wheels and zinc primer and had a nice manly evening 





Let that dry overnight and underseal it all tomorrow, got a bit carried away and did the entire floor pan. Shouldn't have any more rust issues for a while now!  

[attachment=22685]

First coat of underseal went on this morning.

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While the underseal was drying decided to fit the powerflex rear bump stops that I've had in the cupboard for a couple of years now. Typically good intentions of getting stuff done went wrong with the bump stop cup retaining bolt snapping off and having to drill it out etc, but still, good opportunity to buy some unesessary shiny things from spoox 
[attachment=22686]

Found a big issue today





Didn't want to cut anymore out until I've found a complete donar sill to weld in. 

Scary to think that this has been hiding under the side skirt for years, looks to be damage from a jack on the sill that split the metal and has been rotting from the inside out, repairing the outer sill shouldn't be too bad it's just where the rot has started eating through the inner sill that concerns me. 

The welder is on standby, just need to find a donar car to chop up lol. 

Not what I wanted to find the week before I was going to put it back on the road! 

Wow that's not good. Glad you're going to get it sorted though. I'm putting off removing my sills.
My 306 is rusty behind the front arches in pretty much the exact same way as yours.

I've been poking around some more this morning and it goes deeper than I first though



The repairs to the sill are likely to lead to needing to respray the rear quarter. 


Bit of a dilemma really as this is doable but not cheap, but I've been offered a very tidy rallye for the same sort of money that repairing this would cost :/

(20-04-2015, 11:33 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: [ -> ]I've been poking around some more this morning and it goes deeper than I first though



The repairs to the sill are likely to lead to needing to respray the rear quarter. 


Bit of a dilemma really as this is doable but not cheap, but I've been offered a very tidy rallye for the same sort of money that repairing this would cost :/

Store this and be my black rallye broseph, Got the whole summer to repair this beasty then!

Gutting dood

Stocked up on supplies and started to sort out the sill today
Chopped out everything that was needed, went for minimal cutting to retain as much of the original shape and holes as possible. Just cut out the absolute worst bits and a small square to access the inner sill damage 

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All the inner bits plated up 

Got the guy at manumech next door to my workshop to bend me up a section of replacement sill from some 1mm steel, top blokes. Absolutely perfect 

Horrible to find rust like that! But at least you know what your doing and your cracking on with the fix, good stuff!