306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

A lot of your problem will be down to your solid suspension set up. The stock system is designed to isolate and dissipate vibration and shocks, you've systematically replaced every such component with super-stiff items not designed for the environment you use them in. This will not only over-load the "race-car" mods and shit them out quickly - like your lower arm bearings - but will also put a lot more stress on the remaining stock components of the chassis, eg balljoints. The driveshafts won't be so easy to fix, besides driving on them a bit more sympathetically.

(25-12-2016, 09:30 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]A lot of your problem will be down to your solid suspension set up. The stock system is designed to isolate and dissipate vibration and shocks, you've systematically replaced every such component with super-stiff items not designed for the environment you use them in. This will not only over-load the "race-car" mods and shit them out quickly - like your lower arm bearings - but will also put a lot more stress on the remaining stock components of the chassis, eg balljoints. The driveshafts won't be so easy to fix, besides driving on them a bit more sympathetically.

Sounds about right :/ 99% of the teethingbproblems ive got are through errors ive made. Hopefully this bush change all round will solve alot of issues.

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It's always the way with projects this extreme, onwards and upwards eh.

(25-12-2016, 09:39 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]It's always the way with projects this extreme, onwards and upwards eh.

Might get there eventually [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] laying off power and extreme mods till i can sort these issues out. Think its pointless caging etc a car thats ripping itself to bits. Back to the drawing board. Just means might be no large visible changes next year.

P.s happy xmas guys

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Managed to get 5 mins at work tonight to start sorting these wishbones out.chucked them in the parts wash first to get all the old engine oil dribbled over them off.

Now beings im at work ive not really got the option to burn the bushes out because of the fumes so just resorted to chucking them through the press till the rubbers gave in

Once the pbush housing was mangled off i just ran a slitting disk up the center

Managed to screw one up and take a chunk out of it with the grinder

So out came the welder and file to repair my f.up

Front bush ended up taking alot more persuading and had to cut the outer housing into pieces to knock it out
Once everything was out gave them a good flappy wheel over
Then assembled the new bushes in
To ginish them off just given them a paint over with some silver hamer effect rustoleum
Nothing pretty but should be functional

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Badly need advice guys!
About to buy vibra mounts and cant decide fast road or comp. Im not fussed about her shaking etc just want best suited for the car and torque

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I would get the fast road. Less shaking throughout the car can only be better for everything else

(13-01-2017, 09:54 AM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]I would get the fast road. Less shaking throughout the car can only be better for everything else

Will they withstand the abuse? The bbm gear was good and didnt mind the vivration but didnt exactly last

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if it didn't last let Stew know, I think they have revised them a little.

make sure the cradle is good and the mount is well chocked, or even the vibratechnics race mount will break soon.

I'm using 100% o.e on my engine, 200+bhp, bit expensive but really nice to drive.

(13-01-2017, 10:50 AM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]if it didn't last let Stew know, I think they have revised them a little.

make sure the cradle is good and the mount is well chocked, or even the vibratechnics race mount will break soon.

I'm using 100% o.e on my engine, 200+bhp, bit expensive but really nice to drive.

I let him know months ago :/ promised me and a few others a prototype to try out on his new design. Emailed him a few times after to get ignored then saw the new mounts have been realised on his fb :/ asked for pics of the new design and still getting ignored.
Im just going straiggt to vibra now.
Repaired the craddle pretty much when i first got the car as it had just fell away to nothing, plate that was welded raised her 5mm tho... Its been chocked but with a welded in 5mm plate as didnt know of the 205 chocks at the time

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what are the 205 chocks?

Also interested in 205 chocks?

Probs means these. Top Center. Used a pair to chock the top engine mount on the XUD in the 309 as the old ones had become soft and brittle.


205 engine mount kit

Yeah these

Can use washers to shim them to reduce movement. I had a metal spacer welded in but looking at these if the threads long enough then may still work for me.

I call them chocks but there more buffers

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Apologies. Just been informed the flat faced ones are better


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they're all the same afaik.

in a 306 I'd just stick to the 306 part.

(13-01-2017, 04:44 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]they're all the same afaik.

in a 306 I'd just stick to the 306 part.

Ones flat faced the others pointed. Id presume the flat face would disperce pressure better?




Ok abit of a car whore question this time. Ive gotta fit a silencer to the car due to neighbours starting grumble about how loud she is and tbf shes bloody loud.
As ive got no proper box's at all in the full stainless 2.5" system im gonna add in a rear silencer but cant decide what to go for. Im going for a profusion box as ive got a pro fusion resonator up front.
Im going for an 18" box 2.5" in and 2.5" out.


So the choice is single tip or twin. If i stick single im gonna stay with how the exhaust looks now

If i go twin i'll pretty much do the same style but staggered pipes


Also am i correct in thinking a twin tip potentially would release more exhaust gas where as a single would be quieter? Dunno if thats just my muppet mind thinking that

Single or twin?
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If your engine mount cradle is raised by a few mm that might be enough to introduce too much slack at the top. I'd keep the standard 306 chocks and weld in a pair of plates to the cradle to reduce the room for movement.

(14-01-2017, 07:21 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]If your engine mount cradle is raised by a few mm that might be enough to introduce too much slack at the top. I'd keep the standard 306 chocks and weld in a pair of plates to the cradle to reduce the room for movement.

She has got additional plates welded either side of the chocks from when it got raised.
Will try get a pic later of it as at work atm.
The 205 chocks were shown to me as an "adjustable" method to control the slack as you just space the chocks accordingly

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Bit hard to see but theres the plate on the left

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Try

http://exhaustpartsuk.com/

They make all their silencers onsite - give them a ring and let them know what you want, super helpful and very reasonable prices for all parts.

Have used them on a number of occasions now, faultless imo

(14-01-2017, 07:53 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: [ -> ]Try

http://exhaustpartsuk.com/

They make all their silencers onsite - give them a ring and let them know what you want, super helpful and very reasonable prices for all parts.

Have used them on a number of occasions now, faultless imo

Legend cheers.

Still after opinions for twin or single tip

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dunno on twin tip vs single - depends entirely how its configured inside the box

normally something like 1 pipe in - perforated inside, that is next to the two pipes that exit - also perforated, and surrounded by sound deadening fluff.

have a quick look at google images, but loads of options.

Say best to phone up exhaust place and run them through your requirements, and they can knock something up to suit.

i wouldnt see the twin tip offering any extra performance when the single tip is the same diameter as the rest of the system?

(14-01-2017, 08:16 AM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]i wouldnt see the twin tip offering any extra performance when the single tip is the same diameter as the rest of the system?

depends on the configuration inside the silencer

could well be that a twin exit silencer offers less restriction than a single pipe - in a configuration that is set up to reduce noise. not just a straight through perforated pipe.

Well the dildo mount kit arrived. Gotta admit felt the burn on my wallet for these but now theyve arrived ive fallen in love with them. The amount of craftsmanship in these mounts are unreal.

Sundays d-day for fitting everything. New febi ball joints arrived to. Cars gonna spend a few days on axle stands as also need to lathe a piece for the coilovers to go slightly lower and retain the helper.

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You are going to have a right lol with that groupA fork bush - no word of a lie with one fitted I couldn't see below 3k rpm as my eyeballs were vibrating that much


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(19-01-2017, 07:15 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: [ -> ]You are going to have a right lol with that groupA fork bush - no word of a lie with one fitted I couldn't see below 3k rpm as my eyeballs were vibrating that much


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[FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] f*ck i hope that discription is accurate [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

Its the subtle dildo conversion for the miss's

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If you want to keep flow good I'd say stick with a straight through style silencer just with perforated walls and fibers packed round the tube. Any kinks twists and splits will just disrupt flow tbh

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And if it enters the pipe on an angle or leaves on an angle try and get the pipe bent rather than just cut across and welded on at an angle

(20-01-2017, 04:22 PM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: [ -> ]If you want to keep flow good I'd say stick with a straight through style silencer just with perforated walls and fibers packed round the tube. Any kinks twists and splits will just disrupt flow tbh

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And if it enters the pipe on an angle or leaves on an angle try and get the pipe bent rather than just cut across and welded on at an angle

Im lacking silencers at all tho which is the main issue. Had thought of one like you described but will it sound deaden enough? Shes bloody loud lol

Also the system is made up of stainless sanitry pipe bends (304, seamless and cheaper to buy then exhaust parts) and dairy pipe from work. Expense was spaired but not quality.
Got the welder at work to thank for showing me how to get around the costs

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recently fitted an Audi straight through stainless box in the middle of a no silencer exhaust on a 300 TDi 90, it sounded raspy and a bit shit beforehand, wasn't a big box but its taken most of the rasp out and you can now actually hear the Turbo and it spools up harder low down.