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Full Version: Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project
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It didn't as far as I know, certainly showed no signs of it.
(07-12-2015, 07:51 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: [ -> ]It didn't as far as I know, certainly showed no signs of it.
Did you seal it with paste or gasket?
Nope, just tightened it up to 11.
(07-12-2015, 08:19 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: [ -> ]Nope, just tightened it up to 11.

haha, words to live by
id use that adaptor as is if it was me man. open up the exhaust mani a bit job done. no need to make another one. also i used gaskets on mine maybe i was over cautious though
(07-12-2015, 08:24 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]id use that adaptor as is if it was me man. open up the exhaust mani a bit job done. no need to make another one. also i used gaskets on mine maybe i was over cautious though

How do you propose he uses it when the hole is even bigger than the manifold flange? Big Grin
just noticed that one. skim read fail. yeah dont use that and dont weld it up just make another
Lmao, well im just gonna weld it up and grind it to where i need it. Not an issue and will be much quicker than making another Smile if it warps under the heat ive got access to a mill at work so can skim it down
Tried welding the adapter and just couldnt get the heat into it to penertrate so opted to make a new adapter.
[Image: 09d9fc3afc9a48f62fbcbbb6285e488c.jpg]
To save time on measuring the holes again ive liturally just spot welded the failed adapter onto for a drilling guide
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Brilliant mate Smile keep going you will get there! All these photos are great and as a bonus will help those also looking to cross the line from stage 2 to stage 3!
(08-12-2015, 10:44 PM)MY95 Wrote: [ -> ]Brilliant mate Smile keep going you will get there! All these photos are great and as a bonus will help those also looking to cross the line from stage 2 to stage 3!
cheers, yeah found the info is pretty hard to get hold of so just wanted to lay down some facts for people looking to do it Smile
Ok so a couple more thoughts i will look into tonight if i remember.<br />
1. I know that the stock inlet fits but unsure if it will need modification. As we know the inlets use a rubber seal that fits inside of the inlet then slots over the turbo itself to be bolted to it. My thought here is to possible do away with the seal and shorten the neck enough to run a rwducing silicone but this is to yet be confirmed with sizes.<br />
2. The plastic 406 bottom hose. I know for a fact these are different so will have to look at a reducer again. If its far to tight to get a silicone in the next thought will be to use the c5 bottom pipe with a reducing 90° silicone. Currently thinking this might be the way i have to go
Ok so confirmed my own suspisions.
Looks like the stock inlet may not fit. Its not ruled out yet but the size hike is pretty unreal. Need an inlet off a hdi to measure up.
Gt15 inlet: 33.5mm
Gt2052s inlet: 60mm
[Image: bcc6f20f5930c5664e20f3123f9d9bfb.jpg][Image: 4559703b95a501419d12ec7b4676e99f.jpg]
Been warned that even if the stock inlet can be fitted it may pose as a restriction. Atm im aware of this but just looking for the easiest root to build it then i can work back on myself to improve areas of the build.
[Image: 121c04be665407b2f7d5a6a2b80cfed8.jpg]
[Image: 7f1d44d7f30b4cda121185164a34801f.jpg]
Seen a few xantia's and 406's with a different style inlet so may also look into this.
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At first glance it looks to have a better flow but the downsides look to be that it looks like its made from plastic which makes it a pain to edit and again the turbo end as i believe the xantia and 406 run the same turbo.

As for the bottom pipe it seems the 406 pipe deffinatley has to be done away with. As it stands with the gt15 the 406 pipe already scrubs on my subframe, its also had the end knuckle removed to butt it up to the turbo and it still causes issues.
After size comparing the turbo's decided the only wise thing to do was move on to a c5 pipe.
[Image: 7f414c32fbf52919b751ba1bf6c67d01.jpg]
Gt15 outlet: 42mm
Gt2052s outlet: 50mm
[Image: b364e1ba8cc8acdb14504247e048c862.jpg]
As most people are aware a 90° long legged silicone has to be used on the turbo end of the c5 pipe to make this fit. In this case i shall be using a long legged 90° reducer silicone. This will also give me the flexiability on the partial relocation position of the gt2052s compared to the gt15.

Anyway keep watching this space [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]
I have a 406 inlet pipe in my garage if you want me to measure it
(11-12-2015, 05:43 AM)Paul_13 Wrote: [ -> ]I have a 406 inlet pipe in my garage if you want me to measure it
Yes please fella! Saves getting soaked in a scrappy
Drop me a pm over the weekend to remind me!
(11-12-2015, 08:06 AM)Paul_13 Wrote: [ -> ]Drop me a pm over the weekend to remind me!
Thank you!
There's a guy on here who made his own custom inlet pipework, looks dead smart and not restrictive. Think it was the dude who put the HDi lump in the 205 so it may be worth hunting it out. Stock pipework looks like a massive restriction though
(11-12-2015, 12:38 PM)Midnightclub Wrote: [ -> ]There's a guy on here who made his own custom inlet pipework, looks dead smart and not restrictive. Think it was the dude who put the HDi lump in the 205 so it may be worth hunting it out. Stock pipework looks like a massive restriction though
Agree'd, the stock induction will only be a temp solution as this is my daily car. Will also be a good refrence point to base the new inlet on if i find an alternative to the normal 306 one works better with the space avaliable

Right another thought of been having with this build is where im going to fit the actuator as im going to lose the mounting bracket on the cold side when i clock it.
Was slightly worried when i was told by a friend there was very little room to run the actuator with a custom bracket and proceeded to show me this bracket.
[Image: 48ed2130549e34745e0231b2adf7cc62.jpg]
This looks to be mounted where the turbo brace would usually bolt onto the block. For me this looks like to many things could go wrong so want to try and keep it simple. I noticed on gt15's the actuator is actually mounted to its own plate that bolts to the cold side.
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This may take abit of buggery to make fiy but feel that using the oem style bracket if possible is the simplist solution.

Any way ive got a scrap turbo so will collect this from a friends on the way home tonight and have a play with clocking the gt2052s.

Am i correct in thinking the oil return must face down? (Gravity fed)
Yeah oil return must face down man. Also just a word of warning the stock gt15 actuator i used on my gt2052s gave way at 1.6 bar. To get to 1.8 bar i had to change it. Was just forcing the wastegate open.
(11-12-2015, 02:34 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah oil return must face down man. Also just a word of warning the stock gt15 actuator i used on my gt2052s gave way at 1.6 bar. To get to 1.8 bar i had to change it. Was just forcing the wastegate open.
coild i simply use the bracket to mount tge stock gt2052 actuator too?
Depends what angle you can have the bracket sit as it only fits on the turbo one way. Had to mod my bracket as well when i clocked my turbo.
(11-12-2015, 04:14 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]Depends what angle you can have the bracket sit as it only fits on the turbo one way. Had to mod my bracket as well when i clocked my turbo.
Will have a look later, cheers Smile
Right bit more of an advance... or step back as it were.
Retrieved the gt15 actuator to give a try but once the turbo was clocked there was no room near the outlet to mount it.

Mocked up the turbo on the manifold then laid a case against the manifold to give me a rough idea of the room ive got to work with when its on the block.
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Only idea i can come up with is to either re-work or make a bracket from the exhaust side housing bolts that fix the chra in.
[Image: 557620abc792908f75bf69bd681511d6.jpg]
If the bracket is made right i should be able to run the stock actuator on a very nice angle to the waste gate arm. The new angle will also require the actuator arm to be shortened and the thread cut higher. Also looks to need a custom end making aswell.
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Why not use some flexi hose for inlet to airfilter?
Hadnt thought of that.... what stuff are you proposing?
hah, ok, flexible air ducting is the one - have used it a couple of times

they do a cheaper single ply too

go for the biggest diameter you can for least restriction

link > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Air-D...1476346147
(12-12-2015, 11:56 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: [ -> ]hah, ok, flexible air ducting is the one - have used it a couple of times

they do a cheaper single ply too

go for the biggest diameter you can for least restriction

link > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Air-D...1476346147
Proper liking this idea and would sort a few other problems out ive got to! Wanting to keep the stock routing just for a tidier end result. Daft question but will this stuff stretch and clamp down well? Mafs 70mm where as turbo inlet is 60mm so would aim for 65mm for an all round good fit
It won't stretch very well i don't think

You can compress it down - can just crush down the reinforced steel
(12-12-2015, 12:06 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: [ -> ]It won't stretch very well i don't think

You can compress it down - can just crush down the reinforced steel
Just found sleeving it with silicone will make it upto 70mm [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]
[Image: d6f5fb5095a6df0c9fd4a486a66619af.jpg]
Think this will be the way i go then
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