306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

(13-03-2016, 12:06 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]i'd reshell tbh.

Lol this. Its exactly what im doing with mine. It was getting ropey. Cost me £40 for new motor transfer all the bits job done

But it starts costing a hell of alot more having to buy parts inbetween and being without a car when its your only motor

Don't be silly and ruin a good turbo over laziness, there is 0% chance of it working as is, take the time and sort it out

(13-03-2016, 03:26 PM)HDi--Power Wrote: [ -> ]Don't be silly and ruin a good turbo over laziness, there is 0% chance of it working as is, take the time and sort it out

Its just been such an arse that i cba atm. Already clocked 200 mile on it so damage is already done if its gonna die. Gonna prep this next turbo ready and make a few more mods to get stuff better.
We all know its coming so if i dont get an "i told you so" on here im gonna be very dissapointed in you guys [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

(13-03-2016, 12:15 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]Didnt ask to reshell tho? Pity if some of you lot worked on old beemers or dubs. Oh no its rusty, f*ck it scrap it and reshell [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

You can't compare old Beamers or (as much as I dislike them) VW's to a 306 estate! Your average 306 is worth a couple hundred...

Why not weld it up? It's not as if repair sections from scrap cars are hard to come by.
For all the work of swapping the entire gubbins over I'd rather spend a few hours welding what I've got. They are all getting on a bit now so most will need some welding soon.

(13-03-2016, 08:19 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]Why not weld it up? It's not as if repair sections from scrap cars are hard to come by.
For all the work of swapping the entire gubbins over I'd rather spend a few hours welding what I've got. They are all getting on a bit now so most will need some welding soon.

Exactly [OK HAND SIGN]

(13-03-2016, 08:20 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]

(13-03-2016, 08:19 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]Why not weld it up? It's not as if repair sections from scrap cars are hard to come by.
For all the work of swapping the entire gubbins over I'd rather spend a few hours welding what I've got. They are all getting on a bit now so most will need some welding soon.

Exactly

Yeah, weld her up

Although I really would sort that CHRA rotation, it's just a wasted effort otherwise.

(13-03-2016, 08:25 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: [ -> ]

(13-03-2016, 08:20 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]

(13-03-2016, 08:19 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]Why not weld it up? It's not as if repair sections from scrap cars are hard to come by.
For all the work of swapping the entire gubbins over I'd rather spend a few hours welding what I've got. They are all getting on a bit now so most will need some welding soon.

Exactly

Yeah, weld her up[emoji38]
Although I really would sort that CHRA rotation, it's just a wasted effort otherwise.

Tbf think the chra died already [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] lil bit of white smoke and inlet was smeared with black oil to the point i cant see the colour of the pipe [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] might be a brether issue again but if not can i get an "i told you so" up in here

I told you so

Meh, you won't do it again.

(13-03-2016, 08:52 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: [ -> ]I told you so

Meh, you won't do it again.

Like everything fella. Its all a huge learning curve. This is my first proper turbo play so considering this seems to be the only error atm i dont think i did to bad. If it was perfect first time id be doing it for a living [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES] just a humble boy building his toy as cheap as poss on a driveway

---

Question for oil return.
Is it high pressure? Want to cut one down and wondering if i can get away without the flared end to stop it popping off.
Eg double jubilee or somthing....

Well seems ive got an intresting spanner to throw in the works.
The car was showing signs of the gt15 going, emphises on the push for a bigger turbo.
Little bit of oily smoke, oil smothered in the inlet.
Day of driving the new turbo (yes the oil feeds are wrong but lets roll with this thought) and i get the same symptoms...

The gt15 that came off had minimal play but signs of oil in cylinder 4 on the manifold. Could it be ive been miss reading the signs and she is indeed brething heavily and rings going?


Today ive only had enough time to knock the brether off to atmostphere and clean all boost pipes (not cooler) before i go pick my daughter up. Now becausethe intercoolers not clean i cant rely on top boost hoses to give me an idea of oil input from the turbo if i have killed it already but i can still use the bottom boost pipe as an indicator....
We shall see [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND SMILING EYES]

Popped the bottom pipe off and scarely its pretty clean. Been boosting it to 26psi no fucks given today and the only oil present is that that can easily be explained as the dirty intake remains.

However top boost pipe is oily as and she still smokes. Thinking this is because the intercooler has acted as a catch tank. Brether has also cleared up back to atmostphere which is very odd?

On a final note whats the min wheel size for brembos? Can i squeeze them under my 15" landy steels? Currently have to space 20mm just to clear stock callipers

Brembos wont fit under any 15s other than Pro Race 1.2s when I researched this, need a 20mm spacer for clones, theres pretty much no 15's that will fit over brembos, need 16's or above really fella

(14-03-2016, 09:47 PM)MY95 Wrote: [ -> ]Brembos wont fit under any 15s other than Pro Race 1.2s when I researched this, need a 20mm spacer for clones, theres pretty much no 15's that will fit over brembos, need 16's or above really fella

Damn! Got some clones here i will measure up.
Hoping steels have a thinner wall and thus more clearance

i'm running 200 bhp on gti6 calipers, and they'll be staying tbh, more than enough till I have lots more power.

(14-03-2016, 10:48 PM)welshpug Wrote: [ -> ]i'm running 200 bhp on gti6 calipers, and they'll be staying tbh, more than enough till I have lots more power.

Im just feeling that once this runs right the brakes are going to be well beyond any good. As they stand now the sliders are in need yet again of a rebuild and looks like the drilled and grooved mtec disks are pretty trashed to.
Feeling a big set of brakes to back the power of this. With everything in her too must be at least a ton and 1/4 so stopping power is becoming a dier must. Made small upgrades to them but think im needing somthing much more

Just refurb the '6 calipers and buy decent pads n discs...

Bit surprised you're driving it though with that rust... Thats a main part of the structural integrity gone!

If the breather is only an issue when attached to the inlet then you have a restriction upstream that's causing vacuum to draw through more oil from the head. It'd have to be a pretty major restriction to draw that much oil though, is your filter clogged solid?

(15-03-2016, 07:03 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]If the breather is only an issue when attached to the inlet then you have a restriction upstream that's causing vacuum to draw through more oil from the head. It'd have to be a pretty major restriction to draw that much oil though, is your filter clogged solid?

Oil filter?
Ive had problems with crankcase brether before but from past experience i need another pipe on hand as they tend to just brittle

Think he means air filter

(15-03-2016, 11:33 AM)Paul_13 Wrote: [ -> ]Think he means air filter

I knew that [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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New turbos just arrived, inners look pretty damn clean, minor shaft play so perfect replacement.
As the other still seems to be holding up i think im gonna plan to build the new one 100% correct.

Ive ordered a six sided spanner so i dont kill the exhaust housing bolts this time trying to crack them off. Ive got another gt15 oil return, rather then bending it this time and present a narrowed oil way im going to cut it down and run a longer rubber oil return.

Now rather than me being a cock this time what sort of chra angle am i looking for and is there any other tips to get this running sweet?

As new turbo dosnt require the rebuild kit it will be rebuilt and shelf'd

(15-03-2016, 11:38 AM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]Now rather than me being a cock this time what sort of chra angle am i looking for and is there any other tips to get this running sweet?

Generally Oil feed at the top and and the drain at the bottom so gravity actually helps oil back to the sump so there isn't a build up inside the CHRA.

(15-03-2016, 12:10 PM)mr_fish Wrote: [ -> ]

(15-03-2016, 11:38 AM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]Now rather than me being a cock this time what sort of chra angle am i looking for and is there any other tips to get this running sweet?

Generally Oil feed at the top and and the drain at the bottom so gravity actually helps oil back to the sump so there isn't a build up inside the CHRA.

Even with the gt15 there not directly on top. Do i just get the most extreme angle i can??

The arrangement on the gt15 might not be in line with the engine, but the engine is mounted on a slant in the vehicle. Ideally you want the feed/drain angle to be exactly perpendicular to the ground, in reality it's nearly impossible to get it perfect so try to keep it within 15 degrees of upright.

(15-03-2016, 12:38 PM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]The arrangement on the gt15 might not be in line with the engine, but the engine is mounted on a slant in the vehicle. Ideally you want the feed/drain angle to be exactly perpendicular to the ground, in reality it's nearly impossible to get it perfect so try to keep it within 15 degrees of upright.

Whats my max angle i can have on the chra then? Might have to look at a new feed line

Within 15 degrees of upright...


Poodle just said!

My bad lol

I'll be pushing 250bhp through 205 1.9 brakes, you'll be fine.

Fair play