306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

(15-07-2016, 10:06 PM)Toms306 Wrote: [ -> ]Shaft seals are the main ones to do tbh, they always seem to leak once the shaft has been removed now.

Ive not had many issues with driveshaft seals but there always the easier ones to attack i think

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Fair enough, maybe I'm just not careful enough with the shafts then lol. I usually change them, but the few times I haven't, have found a puddle of gear oil underneath the next day which is impossible to clear up and stinks for weeks.

Well ive up'ed my wanker level and painted my callipers [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] on a serious note tho when this is dry tommorow gotta get these new pads in and re-grease/free the sliders off as i seem to be wearing only the back pad.
Least doing it this way round i wont look like a muppet with painted pads... always bugs me to see that.

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Still waiting for seals and clutch to show up too..
Got some bolts to hopefully sort tye mani with as only got 6/8 on the exhaust due to the stock studs being to long and the turbo adapter interfearing with them and also forgetting to sort somthing when it was rushed together

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You know those butterfly springs are supposed to be under the caliper right?

Paint looks good anyway!

(18-07-2016, 05:03 PM)Toms306 Wrote: [ -> ]You know those butterfly springs are supposed to be under the caliper right?

Paint looks good anyway!

Actually didnt... f*ck.. thats kinda f*cking scary as always done that....

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Felt like such a dick i went and fitted the new pads and greased the sliders up.
Was actually nicer doing it this evening now its cooler

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Paints brake disc........

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...you know its two bolts to remove the whole caliper...right?

(18-07-2016, 08:17 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Paints brake disc........

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...you know its two bolts to remove the whole caliper...right?

Haha pads will burn it off in seconds

Ha i know but im lazy, plus one of the hub threads is f*cked so its been nut and bolted as long as ive had the car

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Do you need to grease the thrust bearing? Always put a little copperslip on the tube but cant find my bloody tub of it [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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Pads look better now lol!

Hmm, I always grease the tube as well, not sure if it's absolutely necessary though.

(18-07-2016, 08:26 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]

(18-07-2016, 08:17 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]Paints brake disc........

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...you know its two bolts to remove the whole caliper...right?

Haha pads will burn it off in seconds

Ha i know but im lazy, plus one of the hub threads is f*cked so its been nut and bolted as long as ive had the car

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Or melt into a nice residueon your new pads

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Nut n bolted?!? Flip.

is this just a water pre heater?

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Yes...

Sweet. Was in my way and has never worked lol

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If you want to get it working xud glowplugs fit

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Means more money tho :/ never had it working the full time ive owned the car and too skint to go out and get the plugs. Between the mot and clutch this things raped my bank account clean again



Just by passed it out for now.

Popped the flywheel off and found early signs of the crank seal weeping so guess the clutch went at a good time..
Lucky that flywheel you gave me aggy didnt get scored either

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How the hell do i get the clutch fork out lol

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Getting the fork out just need to tap the pin out at the top easier said than done I've made a special bar to do them

(19-07-2016, 01:09 PM)JamesG Wrote: [ -> ]Getting the fork out just need to tap the pin out at the top easier said than done I've made a special bar to do them

Nearly done it...

Popped input shaft seal as wanted to replace it and descovered a shit ton of play in it... is this meant to be there with no seal????

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There abit of a c**t to do but once you've done it but of copper slip when putting t back together helps.

Are you on about the guide tube?

(19-07-2016, 01:14 PM)JamesG Wrote: [ -> ]There abit of a c**t to do but once you've done it but of copper slip when putting t back together helps.

Are you on about the guide tube?

Shes off. This tube with the seal for the gear box.. dropped it of and the main input shaft flops like a fish... is this normal?

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Got a video of you mean play in the shaft on the tube then that's fine the important part is the seal seals

(19-07-2016, 01:25 PM)JamesG Wrote: [ -> ]Got a video of you mean play in the shaft on the tube then that's fine the important part is the seal seals

https://vimeo.com/175374315

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Seems abit worrying to me but the second seals in place its all gone. Looks like theres a lip on the seal that pushes against the bearing housing but not 100%

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Id say the bearing has gone mate there may be slight play but not that much! Christ!

Fml. Seems outer race may have split...

Can see the outside just floats in and out. When its pressed in theres no play tho

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My bad.. meant to do it by the looks of it

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right so thats the new box seal and fork bushes in... need to source a bolt for the fork are but just thinking a simple cap head bolt with a shank on and nylon lock nut for that..

need to make a tool up to press the crank seal in aswell unless people just tap them in? Thinking abit of pipe


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(19-07-2016, 01:35 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]Fml. Seems outer race may have split...

Can see the outside just floats in and out. When its pressed in theres no play tho

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My bad.. meant to do it by the looks of it

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Is that definately the right bearing as its listed as the diff bearing not input shaft

Same style. Best way to get a crank seal in as not got a tool for it?

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Just a thought as I've never check the play in the shaft with the guide tube off, with the guide tube on what's the play like as obviously if it's a taper bearing then it's going to move around like it is doing.

As far as the tool goes I'm sure if you get the corteco seal its supplied with the fitting guide can't remember off the top of my head I know when I did my Mondeo DMF & clutch I had to order crank seal that came with it and that was corteco

Other way of doing it is to use emery paper get rid of any lips on the crank end then put masking tape around the crank end so not to damage the crank seal and just tap it on but obviously don't be too aggressive.

Its an erling. Site said would be either corteco or erling depending whats in. Slightly worried about bending it if i dont use a tool or is it just a case of man up and get on with it and stop worrying?

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I can check input shaft play on spare box if you want