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Right made some real progress today with the frakenturbo. After looking at a few actuator setups decided the best route was the simplist. Basically just extending everything beyond the cold side. This will allow block clearance aswell as keeping the correct angle on the actuator. Photos here are pretty self explantory.
[Image: a451d818291574a28ac12dc984755f1d.jpg][Image: 6cc73e7b7ae5187875204b0b5cafa9eb.jpg][Image: e7780b8fce9f5ba8104298bdb9e10a98.jpg][Image: 1426155425cac1f44226901b77ab7d57.jpg][Image: a21bd06fd68a7132de7eb91817e67351.jpg][Image: 4fb4ab705fd08d25957a0a30b0e1bf66.jpg][Image: 0058b42d2b4fab6b98560a0e701853ce.jpg][Image: b01ebc435d2fdf8739e6dfb7953e3b6b.jpg][Image: a1420e5834c3c090b6cd8bd8f877cee3.jpg][Image: 27b4c43ffe7cf9c5d279ccbbe06f7b20.jpg]
Ok so once the actuator bracket and extension was complete i finally finished off the adapter after all the mistakes ive made! [Image: b3c76430fdbe2d4fa78c9a21bfae33a5.jpg]
Hole in the center is 32mm cut with a hole saw. Ever so slightly larger than the manifold but gives the best possible flow on the turbo.
After it was finished i mocked it all up. Yet to get some proper nuts to run it.[Image: d79b6cb035bd6e83e6f5656e5b3082c7.jpg]
So all whats left to finish the turbo off is to fit the gt15 oil feeds and rework the oil return .
Good progress mate! Nice to see you've carried on even when it hasn't gone your way, look forward to seeing more updates and it on the car with a nice Stage 3 remap Tongue
(13-12-2015, 10:52 PM)MY95 Wrote: [ -> ]Good progress mate! Nice to see you've carried on even when it hasn't gone your way, look forward to seeing more updates and it on the car with a nice Stage 3 remap [emoji14]
Cheers Smile got a long way to go yet but its getting there. Got to finish collecting parts to run the piping and exhaust bits
[Image: 20151219_142759_zps6vj2reiu.jpg]
(19-12-2015, 02:37 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: [ -> ][Image: 20151219_142759_zps6vj2reiu.jpg]
Hero! Thank you for that! Ngl completley forgot
[Image: 20151219_143904_zps4eujiuts.jpg]
(19-12-2015, 02:41 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: [ -> ][Image: 20151219_143904_zps4eujiuts.jpg]
Is that a full plastic pipe or is the center part metal?
Well after the email sent out by dvsa to all mot testers the other day it seems its time to ditch the stance stretch scene. As a lot of people know police have been trying to do people for stret h for a while tho there was no correct legislation to back it and most mot testers didnt care about it because they never had guide lines for it.
[Image: 5494bd2559ee070b08f153d1a2b037e4.jpg]
Now the dvsa has given mot testers stricter guidlines on this it seems the police will have greater powers then ever on the subject. Rumour has it these are being treated the same as a bald tyre (3 points, £100 fine).
This brings me to todays mission, making my wheels fit with stock tyres. Already had an attempt once on the rears with little success. Last attempt was with the rears on 195/50/15 and 5mm spacers to clear the callipers (after grinding). Today im gonna try 195/45/15 and further grinding the callipers to run no spacers at all.
Wish me luck lmao
[Image: 1f292d07e6d053a7b430d80b84f760a3.jpg]
So as i said earlier the callipers needed attacking on the rear to fit "lesser" 5mm spacers. With this all don the wheels fit under with normal tyres very snuggly.
[Image: 721b7bebc3f801e11d40e1b27813d035.jpg]
Tbh i think i prefer the look of non stretched tyres, theyve filled the arch more, obv improved traction and seems more drivable with the stage 2 tho im sure this will change when its stage 3 [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
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So kinda think tue fitment is now on point. Wheels up front sit out by 5mm and same on the rear.
Only down side is slightly more scrub so will either mod the bump stops up or roll the arch even more
Had some scrubbing issues so solved them the only way i know. by GHETTO SPEC'ING. Breaker bar under the arch and roll the car [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] paint needs another touch up but no one will ever beleive how smooth the arches are and theres no filler. Got this down to an art [OK HAND SIGN][Image: bc4a733ae5ff7bfe2af692466ba3d209.jpg]
Nice one.
How's the turbo coming on?
thats pretty ghetto. Arch rollers arent that expensive!
That is way to clean for a home job. Especially if that's the only tool you used...
(23-12-2015, 12:17 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: [ -> ]Nice one.
How's the turbo coming on?
Tbh honest no advance as had to spunk cash on tyres to stay legal Sad
As for the arches thats all ive ever used. First time was a jack handle. Usually can tap any unwanted creases back with a hammer, pug body work is like paper [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
You'll want some proper tyres for stage 3, be a waste of the power even now you've gone for less mad stretch. Excited to see you're going the whole hog with this though. If you don't already have the 1800bar frps i would spend the money on injectors unstead, far greater potential gain for similar outlay and less stress on the pump.
(23-12-2015, 05:01 PM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]You'll want some proper tyres for stage 3, be a waste of the power even now you've gone for less mad stretch. Excited to see you're going the whole hog with this though. If you don't already have the 1800bar frps i would spend the money on injectors unstead, far greater potential gain for similar outlay and less stress on the pump.
Not running stretch at all now, already bought the fps but will poss re-look at the setup once its done.
considering putting this off for abit to save and get all the bits for a 3" stainless sorted to so its just done in one swoop rather than bodge this, re-visit that
Fair enough, that'll be my old-man-eyes seeing it wrong lol. Wink

You should be able to make 90% of the potential power on your current 2.5" system, the downpipe on those is a piece of cake to make so it's not like it'll waste a load of time/resources making it work in the short term, if that helps at all. I guess you've probably looked at Jonny's thread, but he's documented the adjustments you'll need to make to the gear selector too. I notice you mentioned the bottom pipe in another thread (or possibly this one, i find it hard to keep track Blush ), you will probably find it's easier/cheaper to find different routing, plus that tiny pipe mouth will be a serious restriction on your inlet flow. Be a shame to strangle that strapping great turbo. Big Grin
(24-12-2015, 08:08 AM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]Fair enough, that'll be my old-man-eyes seeing it wrong lol. Wink

You should be able to make 90% of the potential power on your current 2.5" system, the downpipe on those is a piece of cake to make so it's not like it'll waste a load of time/resources making it work in the short term, if that helps at all. I guess you've probably looked at Jonny's thread, but he's documented the adjustments you'll need to make to the gear selector too. I notice you mentioned the bottom pipe in another thread (or possibly this one, i find it hard to keep track Blush ), you will probably find it's easier/cheaper to find different routing, plus that tiny pipe mouth will be a serious restriction on your inlet flow. Be a shame to strangle that strapping great turbo. Big Grin
Ahhh fair play Smile i cant remember whos thread i was looking at but the adapter they made for the turbo was huge. Know someone whos already built the setup im aiming for and the gear link only requires a 5mm trim with this adapter Smile
Is it not worth jumping the exhaust straight up to 3" then?

As for the bittom pipe i know the c5 will restrict it as its gotta be reduced to fit. There will be a new bottom pipe being constructed for that later but atm theres lots on my list for this setup :/ its not like a stage 2 where you can do abit here and there. Didnt realise how full on this was going to be
I would of thought a true 2.5" exhaust would be plenty.
(24-12-2015, 09:03 AM)mr_fish Wrote: [ -> ]I would of thought a true 2.5" exhaust would be plenty.
What is the stock size?
2.25" ish, with some stock systems being crushed bends.
Ahh ok was wondering if i could get away with replacing the bends in the system. May aswell go overkill with 3" surley? At least it would accomodate any mods i might get braver and try later?
If your keen enough, go for it. ThumbsUp
(24-12-2015, 10:19 AM)mr_fish Wrote: [ -> ]If your keen enough, go for it. ThumbsUp

+1
Just means it will be a little longer till she's ready to go stage 3 but should be much better when its on the road. At least 3" wont hinder any exhaust gas. My biggest fear is egt's so after this point any egt spikes have to be manifold
Yeah it's pretty mental the amount of work that has to go in, fair play for sticking with it. I don't personally reckon it's worth the extra outlay for 3", it's not cheap stuff, but that's assuming you have a 2.5" system already...? Otherwise, as mark has said... Smile
(24-12-2015, 02:42 PM)Poodle Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah it's pretty mental the amount of work that has to go in, fair play for sticking with it. I don't personally reckon it's worth the extra outlay for 3", it's not cheap stuff, but that's assuming you have a 2.5" system already...? Otherwise, as mark has said... Smile
No the system ive got is pretty pants, just a race tube. Havnt measured it but think its mega restrictive
My estate has 3" exhaust and i still seem to get fairly high EGTs
(24-12-2015, 03:11 PM)Frosty Wrote: [ -> ]My estate has 3" exhaust and i still seem to get fairly high EGTs
No hope then? [PERSEVERING FACE] what would be a recomended size then? Still learning as i go on this whole build
(24-12-2015, 03:12 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]
(24-12-2015, 03:11 PM)Frosty Wrote: [ -> ]My estate has 3" exhaust and i still seem to get fairly high EGTs
No hope then? [PERSEVERING FACE] what would be a recomended size then? Still learning as i go on this whole build

I would say go for 3" though as it must help, sounds pretty epic IMO as well.
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