306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

haven't even started haha. But i have bought chris old door cards with speakers from his vibe 306. going to split them retrim the bottom half and put them in. Need to get started on the bay really. Drove and saw sooty for the first time since sept a few weeks back. had a video shoot in london for some big brand. not sure who and signed a disclosure as not meant to mention it but could be on tv/internet soon alone with another car :/ haha
might start stripping some of the bay this weekend so might fire some questions alone your way soon

Fair play! Did love his audio gear just my pockets arnt deep enough to make anything like it. I'll keep an eye out for ut and yeah happy to answrr questions as you know

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Finally had a spare 5mins to get this spacer finished. All threads re-cut and taken 10mm deeper. Loctited in place and jobs a good'n

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Good luck and hope you dont have any issues with them D:

(17-02-2017, 11:41 AM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]Good luck and hope you dont have any issues with them D:

Threads pucker now. Was a pain removing the studs after having welded and damged the heat treating of the old ones. All should be rectified now tho re-faced square in a lathe (and dti'd after), threads re-chased and taken deeper, new studs and all loctited back in

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Long time no post.
Removed the 4k old oil and it came out pretty thin and black. Had alot of people shouting rings gone etc but been speaking to a friend who tunes volvos for a living and he believes the root cause could be the fact im baking the oil.
After the oil change the oil stoped smoking out the brether, pushing out and the exhuast didnt smoke once warmed up. It wasnt untill massivley thrashing her the other night putting a civic in its place that these symptoms all came back. With the bigger turbo, higher exhaust output but stock mani i think it was always gonna see the turbo temp and oil temp raise but has always been somthing ive over looked. Not had an oil temp gauge to tell me for deffo but instead ive jumped straight onto buying a thermostatic mocal setup while i have the free cash (good gauge setup would of cost half that anyway bu the time i get mounts etc) even if this dosnt solve the problem and it is a new engine needed its always there for the next lump and is never a bad precaution buy.

In regards to this what are peoples advice on fitment. Do away with the water cooler or run them together?

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Would have been better with a thermostatic plate


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(10-03-2017, 10:48 AM)Sambarker Wrote: [ -> ]Would have been better with a thermostatic plate


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It is a thermostatic plate

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The one in the photo you posted wasn't, but glad you've gone for one as otherwise you'd have the reverse issue when engine not working hard


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(10-03-2017, 11:23 AM)Sambarker Wrote: [ -> ]The one in the photo you posted wasn't, but glad you've gone for one as otherwise you'd have the reverse issue when engine not working hard


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The pic is the same one. The thermo plate was just an option to choose when purchasing. Fine line to balance really, been told to keep the water cooler still aswell to balance the system warming up. Not sure if it makes a difference?

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yes, a fair bit.

(10-03-2017, 11:26 AM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]

(10-03-2017, 11:23 AM)Sambarker Wrote: [ -> ]The one in the photo you posted wasn't, but glad you've gone for one as otherwise you'd have the reverse issue when engine not working hard


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The pic is the same one. The thermo plate was just an option to choose when purchasing. Fine line to balance really, been told to keep the water cooler still aswell to balance the system warming up. Not sure if it makes a difference?

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The thermostatic plate does look different bud , I'd personally keep your current heat exchanger there and use this with it as you've suggested, just remember to compensate for the extra oil when filling your oil


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(10-03-2017, 11:26 AM)dr_jekyll Wrote: [ -> ]

(10-03-2017, 11:23 AM)Sambarker Wrote: [ -> ]The one in the photo you posted wasn't, but glad you've gone for one as otherwise you'd have the reverse issue when engine not working hard


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The pic is the same one. The thermo plate was just an option to choose when purchasing. Fine line to balance really, been told to keep the water cooler still aswell to balance the system warming up. Not sure if it makes a difference?

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The thermostatic plate does look different bud , I'd personally keep your current heat exchanger there and use this with it as you've suggested, just remember to compensate for the extra oil when filling your oil


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I mean as in the pic is the system of bought but dosnt show the thermo plate as it was an added option.
Shall keep the water cooler then. Was also suggested that if i kept it i may need the stubby oil filter ( does anyone have a part no. )
Last daft question... how do you bleed the thermostat for the oil?

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Renault f4r oil filter would fit mate use my reg if ya like R26mnd They're the stubby ones , you shouldn't need to bleed it mate just ensure the levels are correct with the cooler full


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Renault f4r oil filter would fit mate use my reg if ya like R26mnd They're the stubby ones , you shouldn't need to bleed it mate just ensure the levels are correct with the cooler full


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(10-03-2017, 11:42 AM)deggerz Wrote: [ -> ]Renault f4r oil filter would fit mate use my reg if ya like R26mnd They're the stubby ones , you shouldn't need to bleed it mate just ensure the levels are correct with the cooler full


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Renault f4r oil filter would fit mate use my reg if ya like R26mnd They're the stubby ones , you shouldn't need to bleed it mate just ensure the levels are correct with the cooler full


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Thank you!

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crank it with the injection system disabled till the light goes out.

I'd have installed a oil temperature gauge first to save fitting parts you probably don't really need.

I've never known oil temperatures be a huge problem on HDis - do you even know what oil temperature you're getting to? Because of the fact they're exchanged with the water system - you usually get high water temperature also... The HDis have a pretty over-specced cooling system as stock anyway.

What oil are you using?

(10-03-2017, 12:06 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]I'd have installed a oil temperature gauge first to save fitting parts you probably don't really need.

I've never known oil temperatures be a huge problem on HDis - do you even know what oil temperature you're getting to? Because of the fact they're exchanged with the water system - you usually get high water temperature also... The HDis have a pretty over-specced cooling system as stock anyway.

What oil are you using?

The gauge i was after was £40, £30 for a pod and £16 for the sump plug adapter. It equated to half the price of the oil cooler so jumped straight on the cioler while i have those type of funds free. Water temp does indeed spike when boosting hard and then take a fair while to settle which is why this assumption has been made.
Deffinatley agree with a gauge is needed but while the funds are there i may aswell get the cooler. Being thermostatic it can never be a bad move.
Next two things are temp and pressure gauge so i can monitor A. Its deffo working and B. If i spring a leak and drop pressure

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Any ideas on EGT?

(10-03-2017, 03:29 PM)Ruan Wrote: [ -> ]Any ideas on EGT?

Not really because i tried fitting gauge in the egr port and never work.

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Been doing some vay tidying and abit stuck. Does anyone know what this is? i believe it was the water pre heater relay for the glow plugs but was cut off last year. Just cant remember.

Tidyings getting there. Wanted to remove the ecu bracket to bolt it to the inner wing and clean the corner of the bay up

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Ended up removing the fuses and relays and trying to start the car with out to determine if it was needed and it wasnt so there now gone [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] just gotta finish up tommorow then repaint the corner where ive found surface rust

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If you are getting rid off stuff that red button can go as well. Disconnect it and wire the two wires together job done. only an inertia cut off switch.

(12-03-2017, 07:12 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: [ -> ]If you are getting rid off stuff that red button can go as well. Disconnect it and wire the two wires together job done. only an inertia cut off switch.

that's a 'safety item', cuts the fuel pump power in the event of a crash.

Kinda like the the inertia switch tho as its an easy fuel cut in the bay.

For people been keeping an eye on my fb they may have seen that ive shreaded the thread from one of the injector clamps. Been trying to trace my white smoke issue for a while and came back to be a duff injector.
Went to do up the clamp on cylinder 1 and the stud just cheesed out the block.

Had alot of people saying helicoil but after speaking to the guys at work they advised me against it and towards ez loks
Approached my fabricator and he advised me towards step studs which makes me ask why does no one use these when there cheap and readily avaliable?
Anyway as i needed the car asap my fab'er has turned around and made one so was just q case of tap the block out to m10 and fit the custom stud

So job done.

Ive now got the major issue of injector 2 being siezed in. It can rotate but wont pull out. Attempted to run the car with it undone and didnt move. Also soaked it for two days and no luck.

Ended up putting it all back together with 3x 076 and whatever stuck in number 2. Runs and the white smokes cleared up. Cylinder 1 still leaks on the seal so got new coppers on the way and no.2 is extremley mildly bubbling tho i cant remove it...


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Got the oil cooler mounted today. Ended up having to make ne brackets for the intercooler to run it closer to tye rad to gain the space i needed

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Thats a mahoosive intercooler! Updates look good but sounds as if its been a bit of a pain recently
So what the brief spec currently then?

Mechanical:
• Cg motorsport, 4 paddle, unsprung clutch
• Cg motorsport Uprated pressure plate
• 3" Core twinpass intercooler
• Mocal oil cooler
• Custom coldair intake
• Egr delete
• Aircon delete
• Pas delete
• Stainless 2.5" turbo back exhaust system
• Profusion stainless resinator
• Garrett Gt2052s Turbo
• 1.6 Hdi fps
• Bosch R70 fuel pump
• Citreon C5 2.2 hdi intercooler pipes
• Peugeot 307 hdi 076 injectors
• Peugeot 406 hdi exhaust manifold
• Manual boost controller set at 2.0 bar
• Quickshifter kit
• K&N air filter
• Lynx engineering billet crank pulley
• Vibratech gearbox mount
• Vibratech top mount
• Baker bm fork mount
• Vibratech lower engine mount
• Stage 3 jamma pic remap
• Powerflex wishbone pbush
• Powerflex wishbone front bush
• Spax rsx krypton gas coilivers
• Compbrake rose jointed top mounts
• Gaz gold rear damprs
• Powerflex rear bump stops
• Arrie ponk strut brace
• Gti 6 rear torsion bar
• Gti6 front arb
• Front drilled/grooved disks
• 23mm master cylinder
• Phase 1 brake resevior
• Battery relocation

Exterior:
• Land Rover modular steels
• Peugeot 106 Rallye s1 center caps
• 30mm front spacers
• 20mm rear spacers
• Red lug nuts
• Real Carbon wing mirrors
• Real Carbon skinned filler cap
• Rallye fog light blanks
• Gti6 splitter
• Ph3 crystal headlights with ph2 inners
• Smooth bonnet
• Smooth boot
• Genuine eccose fiberglass grill
• Roof bars removed
• Montanna graffati paint spray job

Interior:
• Mamba bucket seats
• Tegiwa harness bar
• Red luke 3 point harness's
• Gti6 rear bench
• Custom suede door cards
• Mazda eunos momo steering wheel
• Quick release boss
• Machine gun barrel gear stick
• Tim gauges
• Colour coded dash
• Peugeot 306 ph1 center console tray
• Suede roof lining
• Peugeot 106 quickslilver grab handles
• Peugeot 306 cab black sunvisors
• Peugeot 306 Ph1 top glove box
• Hks turbo timer
• Vibe slick rear speakers
• Vibe blackair front speakers



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Thats one heck of a spec sheet!

Intercooler fitment looks much neater and less gap between intercooler & rad should reduce any air stall between the two, fairplay fella lots of work gone into this!

(18-03-2017, 08:23 AM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: [ -> ]Thats one heck of a spec sheet!

Intercooler fitment looks much neater and less gap between intercooler & rad should reduce any air stall between the two, fairplay fella lots of work gone into this!

Got around 5/10mm gap now. Was nearly 2 inch before [SEE-NO-EVIL MONKEY] cheers, most people just see the scruffy paint and think what the hell

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