04-10-2013, 09:58 AM
(03-10-2013, 10:43 PM)SRowell Wrote: D: how have i not seen this thread before?!?!
dunno but you've been missing out dude, might even have video tonight.(03-10-2013, 11:16 PM)samass Wrote: Dude wtf, why did you delete like everyone else's posts?Most of the posts are utterly irrelevant and it keeps my project short and easy to read for anyone who hasn't read it before (and for me to read it and find bits I'm looking for) I clean it out about once a month and I've gotta of deleted about 7 or 8 pages from it over time.
(03-10-2013, 11:47 PM)Arron Wrote: This is a win project. jel of the big blower and adapter plate making facilities you have... seen a gt20s on ebay id love to buy... i have a spare mani tooCheers mate. The adapter plate making facilities really are limited to a good drill, a cheap tap and die set and some common hand tools. If your local I can help but just buy a steel plate like mine off ebay and crack on.
(04-10-2013, 07:51 AM)zx_volcane Wrote:Nah I'm going to be using an electronic boost controller but I'm tempted to see If i can actually set it up without so it actually utilises the actuator creep so it doesn't just whack the vanes open and closed suddenly. Might even see if I can run it without a controller(03-10-2013, 09:01 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: The actuator actually starts moving at about 4psi but reaches the required 11mm at about 15psi. Its not at its full 20mm+ extension till 40psi
The turbo is angled with the cold side nearer the engine than the hot side like the standard turbos are but I think I need to run it parallel to clear the water rail. I suppose parallel it'll also make it easier to do the exhaust.
The actuator is probably going to be at quite an angle under the car from clocking the housings so the worry is drive shaft and intercooler pipe clearance.
You going to be using a mbc to control though right? So the actuator won't see anything until whatever target boost you set on that, and then as long as mbc is min 15 psi, bam vanes wide open.
