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Clutch Cable - 306 HDI year 2000
#1
Need some help again!

Where can I get a new clutch cable for 306 HDI year 2000? 

I cannot access ServiceBox to find the part number (ServiceBox is not free anymore).

Eurocarparts and GSF don't list it.

I have not removed the broken cable yet, so don't know the length or part number.

And you'd think the cable would last more than 20 years! Lol.

Thanks

Steve
Thanks given by:
#2
Hi Steve. I have a static copy of Servicebox which runs in a virtual machine on an old laptop. I have to admit I can't often be bothered to dig it out to look stuff up but as far as I can tell the part you need is 2150 Z0 (that's a zero at the end).

There are quite a few available on eBay peugeot 2150.z0 | eBay. It's worth double-checking checking here that the aftermarket parts listed are true analogues for 2150 Z0 PEUGEOT 2150Z0 Clutch Cable - Auto Part Info

There is a website here where you can currently still look things up.  Catalog PEUGEOT 306 (RESTYLING) (ilcats.ru).  I don't fully trust it though. For the HDi it brought up a clutch diagram with a different part number to the one above. Further research showed it was a cable for a 1.4 petrol model! Anyway, use at your own caution.

Cheers
Thanks given by: steve1001
#3
(21-10-2021, 07:44 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Hi Steve. I have a static copy of Servicebox which runs in a virtual machine on an old laptop. I have to admit I can't often be bothered to dig it out to look stuff up but as far as I can tell the part you need is 2150 Z0 (that's a zero at the end).

There are quite a few available on eBay peugeot 2150.z0 | eBay. It's worth double-checking checking here that the aftermarket parts listed are true analogues for 2150 Z0 PEUGEOT 2150Z0 Clutch Cable - Auto Part Info

There is a website here where you can currently still look things up.  Catalog PEUGEOT 306 (RESTYLING) (ilcats.ru).  I don't fully trust it though. For the HDi it brought up a clutch diagram with a different part number to the one above. Further research showed it was a cable for a 1.4 petrol model! Anyway, use at your own caution.

Cheers

Fantastic. Thanks very much for taking the time to dig out that information. 

Yeah, searching the internet I came up with Y3,Y8, Z0 etc, and also landed on that Russian page amongst others, which all confused things.

I went to the Ebay link you supplied and ordered the 2150.Z0 from FirstLine. It should be here tomorrow.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks very much again. Awesome stuff.

Steve
Thanks given by:
#4
(21-10-2021, 07:44 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Hi Steve. I have a static copy of Servicebox which runs in a virtual machine on an old laptop. I have to admit I can't often be bothered to dig it out to look stuff up but as far as I can tell the part you need is 2150 Z0 (that's a zero at the end).

There are quite a few available on eBay peugeot 2150.z0 | eBay. It's worth double-checking checking here that the aftermarket parts listed are true analogues for 2150 Z0 PEUGEOT 2150Z0 Clutch Cable - Auto Part Info

There is a website here where you can currently still look things up.  Catalog PEUGEOT 306 (RESTYLING) (ilcats.ru).  I don't fully trust it though. For the HDi it brought up a clutch diagram with a different part number to the one above. Further research showed it was a cable for a 1.4 petrol model! Anyway, use at your own caution.

Cheers

Mighty306

Many thanks again.

The 2150.Z0 exactly matched the original clutch cable for the DW10 HDI 90 Year2000.

It was an aboslute ball ache replacing the cable.

[1] I could not withdraw the clutch cable from out of the bulk head. After the cable was fitted at the factory, they installed
two air con pipes directly in front of the cable where it enters the bulkhead. I loosened the nearby air con pipe bracket, but still could not move the pipes out of the way. I am not strong, and there was not much room to move my hand once I got it in the narrow space. The air con no longer worked on my 21 year old 306, so I decided to cut the pipes. It took over an hour to cut the pipes in 4 places and eventually extricate them and get them out of the way. The cable could then be easily removed from the bulk head.

[2] After withdrawing the cable from the bulk head I proceeded to remove it from behind the engine. I thought I was home and dry at that point. The cable passes through a small gap between the engine cylinder block, the rear engine mounting link, and the subframe. The threaded end of the bolt securing the rear mounting link to the subframe was sticking up in the gap and preventing the cable from passing through the gap. There was no way on earth that it would pass through the gap. I was ready to cry at this point. What a complete and utter ball ache. I placed a wide block of wood on the 306 jack, and snugged it up to support the sump. I then removed the nut from the engine mounting bolt, and screwed the bolt down and out of the way. I then jacked up the engine another 5-10mm, to open up the gap for the clutch cable.

Finally got it fitted and working.

However, I discovered that the release mechanism arm rattles about and the mechanism must be badly worn or broken. It takes a tremendous force to get the arm moving, which is why the old clutch cable broke.

So, I am going to have to replace all of the clutch parts in the next week or so. 

Steve
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#5
Did the foot pedal end break, the nylon white plastic clevis ?

I used a first line replacement which had an alloy clevis.

From memory I didn't have to removed the bottom engine steady but it was an awkward job. The air con on ours didn't work so I got rid of the pipes, much more room in that area now.

If you need info on the nylon clutch shaft bushes just give a shout...

Still don't really know whats going on with the clutch shaft top bolt affair...

This place is so much better than the crappy face book...don't let this place die...
Thanks given by:
#6
(23-10-2021, 07:41 PM)pug306driver Wrote: Did the foot pedal end break, the nylon white plastic clevis ?

I used a first line replacement which had an alloy clevis.

From memory I didn't have to removed the bottom engine steady but it was an awkward job. The air con on ours didn't work so I got rid of the pipes, much more room in that area now.

If you need info on the nylon clutch shaft bushes just give a shout...

Still don't really know whats going on with the clutch shaft top bolt affair...

This place is so much better than the crappy face book...don't let this place die...
Hi pug306driver

Yeah, the rectangular heavy duty plastic thing broke at the clutch pedal. The FirstLine replacement was also plastic. The plastic one lasted 21 years, so this new one should be good.

When I press the clutch pedal, there is tremendous resistance, then the arm suddenly moves, and the clutch pedal goes down as it should. Maybe the bushes have worn and the shaft is out of line, which is causing it to bind. Or maybe something is broken. I will find out soon.

I may well be back here for some info as I proceed with the repair this week. 

I've ordered:-

[1] Fork Release kit from GSF. Make Topran. It has the two plastic bushes, pin, arm, and shaft. Hopefully it will do the job
[2] Clutch Tube Guide
[3] Clutch kit. Make LUK. Pressure plate, friction plate, release bearing
[4] Gearbox differential oil seals LH and RH for the drive shafts

Also need to get some gearbox oil and brake cleaner. 
Never used brake cleaner before. I'm looking at the 5ltr GSF cleaner for £8.40.  Don't know if that's any good.

Glad I am not the only one ripping out air con pipes!

Steve
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#7
Hi Steve. Sorry to hear the job is bigger than you hoped/expected. Isn't it always the way?

The HDi has a pull-type clutch and in common with the XSi & GTi6 is has a v strong pressure plate spring. As you seem to have worked out the top & bottom of the clutch fork pivots in nylon bushes. They're known to wear out & cause stiff operation of the clutch. The diagram below gives you the part numbers if you want to check what you've ordered is correct.  Peugeot did update the design of the bushes at some point to include an o-ring to prevent water ingress. If you get the older type it won't be a problem as they'll probably outlast the rest of the car!

Hopefully you'll be getting everything you need to get it all sorted.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Thanks given by:
#8
(24-10-2021, 02:33 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: Hi Steve. Sorry to hear the job is bigger than you hoped/expected. Isn't it always the way?

The HDi has a pull-type clutch and in common with the XSi & GTi6 is has a v strong pressure plate spring. As you seem to have worked out the top & bottom of the clutch fork pivots in nylon bushes. They're known to wear out & cause stiff operation of the clutch. The diagram below gives you the part numbers if you want to check what you've ordered is correct.  Peugeot did update the design of the bushes at some point to include an o-ring to prevent water ingress. If you get the older type it won't be a problem as they'll probably outlast the rest of the car!

Hopefully you'll be getting everything you need to get it all sorted.

Hi Mighty306

Thanks for the diagram and information.

Oh dear. I think I may have messed up. Grrr. 
I mistakenly thought the gearbox was a BE3R. Your diagram is an MA box.

Looking at the GSF website for the Clutch Release Fork kit, after entering my reg number they offered me a kit for the MA box and a kit for the BE3R box. I did not notice the difference boxes at the time, and ordered the BE3R type because that is the one they had in stock closest to me. No part number listed
GSF just say the Tube Guide is for RHY DW10TD. No part number listed.
ECP offered me just the one LUK clutch kit. No part number listed.

Vin VF37ARHYE33037455 
Reg W654NJU

Hopefully I can get the thing dismantled tomorrow, and have the parts in my hand. I can also check the box number while I'm lying underneath it all.

Steve
Thanks given by:
#9
Yep, the very usefully parts diagram looks like a push type ( normal old school ) operation, different to a modern ( modern, so it's gunna be crap then ) pull type.

WOW,  GOT THAT WRONG the above parts diagram is for a PULL type clutch as the cable shaft has hooks. MY BAD

Our 306 estate hdi ( year 2000 but lots of stuff has stickers with early-ish 1999 dates ) phase3 ? Definitely has a push type clutch.

When I removed the hubs for a job, the clamp bolts to the strut where undone, releasing fluid sprayed and sprayed into/around the clamping joint area on the strut. I gently taped around the clamping area and resprayed until I could see penetrant disappear down the gap.

Then that bit was easy to seperate/remove strut.

I also went to the iron mongers and got some largish diameter threaded rod, nuts and washers to make some dummy CV joints to " clamp" the6 front wheel bearings.

At some point I have to remove engine/gearbox for turbo work, manifolds cleaning and clutch, but need to get able to have car front wheels back on the deck and roll car backwards a bit, hence dummy CV joints/front wheel bearing clamps, so bearing don't collapse...

I love this car but it's involved working on it, that's part of the love for it probably.?
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#10
Steve : "Oh dear. I think I may have messed up. Grrr. 
I mistakenly thought the gearbox was a BE3R. Your diagram is an MA box."
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Was in quite a rush this morning so might have pulled up the wrong diagram. Will try to check tomorrow. Apologies if I have given you the wrong info. I can't search by VIN with what I have I'm afraid.
Thanks given by:
#11
I've pulled up the diagrams again for the HDI. The BE3R gearbox is listed as well so I don't really know why I didn't post that up instead of the MA. Also, I read on another site that the HDI has a push type clutch. Maybe I was mixing it up with the TD? Anyway, looks like I fed you a load of duff info! Sorry to have added to your stress. Cheers


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Thanks given by: steve1001


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