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04-09-2013, 02:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 11:49 PM by Bender.)
Hi Peeps,
Anyone know where you can buy camber spacer rings that can give you the camber anyone would require for the 306 at all, and also will this cheapy way work ?
I have had a good look but found nothing so far.
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Spigot rings won't get you camber..
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They will if they get machined at the right angle to give negative camber. I've seen so many cars with ridiculous camber on them, on all sorts of makes and models. So this makes me think they must be using some sort of spigot rings or similar. I know some cars can have camber easily via the way its made but some can't.
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04-09-2013, 02:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 02:35 PM by Slam Wagon.)
Wont spigot rings spin with the wheel? Basically giving you the most insanely buckled wheel of all time ever?
Just buy a ruined beam, enough people are throwing them out. And then some camber adjust top mounts.
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The rings used to bring wheels out away from big brakes etc. Im talking more for the rear as well, a nice cheap mod to gain more camber.
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04-09-2013, 02:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 02:53 PM by Grant.)
^^^ yes. All you will achieve is horrendous wheel wobble. You need the mating face of the hub machined before te bearing is in. Or adjustable/eccentric topmounts
Oh if it's the rear wheel you will need the trailing arms machined down
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You mean spacers. Spigot rings are for fitting wheels with a different size centre bore. They won't give camber on their own though. If you want camber you can buy adjustable top mounts for your front suspension, and machine the trailing arms for the rear beam.
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There is also a chap on the 6 forum who sells machine hubs for £175 if you want them
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Yeah sorry spacers, I was thinking with them the bolts wont sit flush.
So do you mean machine the centre where the stub shaft goes into then press a splined ring with its camber added or where the axle shaft goss in ?
If no ring then surely a bigger stub shaft is needed and sounds like a big cost to do that.
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With spacers you would need longer bolts. You're looking at a couple of hundred to have the trailing arms machined for camber.
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Yeah thought as much, I have long studs so that not a problem.
Ill check that out.
Anyone had their arms machined and if so surely itl need a jig of some sort ?
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(04-09-2013, 03:04 PM)Bender Wrote: Yeah sorry spacers, I was thinking with them the bolts wont sit flush.
So do you mean machine the centre where the stub shaft goes into then press a splined ring with its camber added or where the axle shaft goss in ?
If no ring then surely a bigger stub shaft is needed and sounds like a big cost to do that.
Stub shaft???
If you want to caber the rear wheels, you will need to get the arms machined where the wheel bearing goes into them. As scott correctly says, its costly.
For the front wheels, you can have machined hubs. The same principle, just on a hub rather than trailing arm. Or have camber adjustable, or eccentric topmounts. This moves the strut top in relation to where the strut meets the hub.
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yeah. huge effort and time to ruin the comfort, grip, tyre life and steering feel
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(04-09-2013, 03:11 PM)Bender Wrote: Yeah thought as much, I have long studs so that not a problem.
Ill check that out.
Anyone had their arms machined and if so surely itl need a jig of some sort ?
The machining company would deal with all of that.
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^ Better go tell peugeot sport they were completely wrong with the BTCC car then piggy
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I think Piggy is more coming from the angle of having ridiculous camber that is popular on the stance scene as opposed to a couple of degrees for performance reasons
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Yeah fair enough grant..
Some cars are lucky enough to have fully adjustable camber from stock.. /shouldveboughtabmw
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Or just buy camber adjustable top mounts for a Peugeot for 1/100th of the price of a replacement part on the BMW
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If you can find camber adjustable top mounts for a 306 for 76p then fair enough
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Challenge accepted! lol
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04-09-2013, 04:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 04:27 PM by Midnightclub.)
lol! i don't mean pikey cutting stock ones either!!
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I think what you were thinking of was camber shims, which is quite common in the VAG scene.
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ive got an adjustable camber stub axle! it adjusts camber and toe depending which way its fitted
!
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04-09-2013, 06:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2013, 06:17 PM by Bender.)
(04-09-2013, 04:25 PM)Curt Wrote: I think what you were thinking of was camber shims, which is quite common in the VAG scene.
Yes thats it, but not for looks for performance, -2.5 max.
Im sure shims will be much cheaper to buy with the same sort of gain n quality.
Any pics or are you messing?
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Argh. Shims won't work ffs, there's no such thing for the 306 rear beam. Or for the front hubs in fact.
The only way to safely add camber to the rear beam is to have the trailing arm machined at the stub axle. Basically, the hole the stub axle goes in is reworked so that when the stub axle is pressed in, it sits at an angle. The bearing then presses onto the stub axle.
For the front hubs, the shock pinch needs to be machined so the shock body sits in the hub at an angle.
If you try and fit any shim to the hubs or bearings you'll probably die when you drive it.
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Well there are a hell of a lot of cars out there with loads of camber, makes you think it works fine.
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Listen, shims will NOT work on a 306 rear beam due to the nature of the bearing and the stub axle. Shims ONLY work when a hub bolts onto the suspension as a complete unit, the shim sits between the hub and the suspension. On a rear beam, the bearing/hub are pressed onto a stub axle that fits into the trailing arm from behind.
Go ahead and fit shims if you want. I'll laugh at your epically wobbly wheels then.
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Look I never said it would, im mearly pointing out how so many cars out there have loads of camber and want to know how and what they use, no need to be rude I do get it.
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(04-09-2013, 06:47 PM)cwspellowe Wrote:
Listen, shims will NOT work on a 306 rear beam due to the nature of the bearing and the stub axle. Shims ONLY work when a hub bolts onto the suspension as a complete unit, the shim sits between the hub and the suspension. On a rear beam, the bearing/hub are pressed onto a stub axle that fits into the trailing arm from behind.
Go ahead and fit shims if you want. I'll laugh at your epically wobbly wheels then.
This. Its all well and good saying that loads of cars can have extra camber but loads of cars dont have torsion bar rear suspension. Take advice from the people that know these cars inside out like everyone above.
Btw, there is a guy on the 6 forum who made an adaptor plate for his front ball joints to give extra camber and castor. Problem is, due to how big they have to be to fit, he ended up with something silly like 5 degrees of camber.
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Im only asking, I wont ever fit any and you cant buy them anyways for the 306. Im more intrigued about it all, I understand machining stub axle holes is the best way and top mounts for the struts etc.
Surely vag cars etc would still have issues with them, dont know if their suspension is independant like the 6 but surely it wont matter ?
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