04-10-2013, 04:10 PM
(04-10-2013, 10:42 AM)Ruan Wrote: Just make sure all the angles are right and that it isn't just going to jam up and get stuck...All tested and working. Actuator is a piece of piss as it goes in the bracket for the original actuator.
And make sure you put the can on the right way round, so it's up against the screw stop
(04-10-2013, 11:26 AM)mr_fish Wrote:Hoping mine is set right, certainly got enough adjustability if it isn't(04-10-2013, 10:29 AM)Ruan Wrote: I've found that even simply having pipes too long with the target pressure at 20psi will see 80psi EMP and spike to 30psi inlet...
I can relate to that
(04-10-2013, 11:58 AM)silverzx Wrote:Yep because of the way it leaks out pressure it can allow the actuator to gradually open and close rather than whacking it straight open and straight closed again which with vanes rather than a waste gate will cause huge surge issues.(04-10-2013, 10:29 AM)Ruan Wrote: My one bit of advice - don't use an electronic boost controller, they're simply too slow for a VNT - you'll get chronic overboost/underboost situations, it's mostly when you come off the throttle at ~3k and go back on, it'll go absolutely insane with overboost/underbooost as it tries to settle it...
And yeah, you really want a bleed valve for the smoothest progressive increase in boost... I've found that even simply having pipes too long with the target pressure at 20psi will see 80psi EMP and spike to 30psi inlet...
Did I read that right, a bleed valve!?
So todays progress.
To be able to slot a 3" pipe inside the V-band clamp lip I needed to cut the lip off the turbo, out came my favourite toy, Mr nine inch grinder and made short work of it. I left about 1mm of lip as the V band sits on this and it helps to make a good seal. I filed it all off smooth and flat too obviously.
I then put the turbo back together after very carefully marking exactly where the housing should sit in its new position (I can explain to anyone planning the same how to do this but its a bit long so wont post unless its wanted) and then fitted up the boost actuator and wound the stop back a mm or 2 as the turbo is off a much bigger engine and I want it to spool. I hooked the actuator up to a pump with a known good gauge and set about testing for the right position for the actuator rod.
At 10psi It starts to move maybe 2-3mm
at 15psi its maybe 6mm across
at 20psi its its about 9-11mm over
at 25psi its on the far end of its travel at about 13-14mm
I dont think I'm going to see the far end of the travel as the turbo is off a 3.2l engine and is capable of over 300bhp so I don't think Im likely to make that amount of flow through it.
I then took the whole lot out and test fitted it, there was no way it was going on so Ive drilled some new holes and rotated it about 10-15* and its now a much better fit.
Oh and a video of the VNT movement
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtqfNFnnps4