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(06-02-2016, 11:47 AM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]Drum roll!
Sausage roll.........
Ouch Sam, get the welder out!


& as if you didn't check bulbs before the MOT :p
Well that's ruined the surprise lol. We did check bulbs, just not those ones.

You guys realise you can see mot history from just a reg these days lol? Sam's currently 3d printing a 306 chassis that won't rust... Wink
No mot? Sad Where is the rust?
It failed on tulip bulbs or dafs?
oh feck some serious welding needed!
rear shock bush!
didnt you replace the shocks......... Doh!
(06-02-2016, 04:45 PM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]oh feck some serious welding needed!
rear shock bush!
didnt you replace the shocks......... Doh!

Yeah was the avos.
(06-02-2016, 04:37 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]It failed on tulip bulbs or dafs?

Yawn, they're bulbs to us not in the electrical trade. Tongue

(06-02-2016, 04:45 PM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]oh feck some serious welding needed!
rear shock bush!
didnt you replace the shocks......... Doh!

Tbf, we did know it was rusty, that's not a surprise. But other than that it's not a bad fail, we didn't even check anything under the front! Bit annoying about the plate 'lamps' but I never think to check them!

After the hassle with shocks we used one good AVO and one old shock from the estate... Yet it's the AVO with the crap bush. lol
So...
It failed then?
Where da rust at?
(06-02-2016, 06:04 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]So...
It failed then?
Where da rust at?

most was on the garage floor Big Grin
lmao
Haha, mostly on the driveway after I put my finger through it last weekend... lol

Both front chassis rails were the fail. The bulkhead rust was an advisory. Makes me giggle when people say 306s don't rust. lol

Other fails were -

Both number plate lights - I reckon the plug has fallen out, can't see both lamps failing together myself
Rear shock mount has excessive play - Sam needs to order new sleeve for the other shock anyway so can order new mount at the same time
OS Steering rack gaiter split - We haven't even looked under the front end so didn't know about that. I think Bash has supplied a new gaiter, I've never fitted one but guess it's fairly straight forward if the TRE comes off alright.

Other advisories were:

Front pads getting low - Fairly sure Sam already has replacements to go on
Slight play OS TRE - Cheap and easy to replace
Slight play NS inner rack joint - not sure what to think about that one, guess they're not expensive to replace.


Could be an ideal chance to fit a VTS rack instead of repairing this one but that is obviously up to Sam.
So you guys knew about the rust on the chassis rails?

If it's where I'm thinking its prob the most common place for them to rust, well there and the rear arch
(06-02-2016, 08:25 PM)Frosty Wrote: [ -> ]So you guys knew about the rust on the chassis rails?

If it's where I'm thinking its prob the most common place for them to rust, well there and the rear arch

We knew it was there, didn't know the extent of it though. And yeah it's a common place. I've had it there on a couple of HDi's as well, and it had been repaired on my GTi6 shortly before I bought it.

306s are starting to go along the sills as well now, probably best we leave the skirts on just in case lol.
Haha yeah, least putting it in for the mot gives you the bigger picture of anything it does need.

Still not to bad, little bit of work and should be all good
something for your folder Sam Wink

[attachment=26537]
Yeah the welding is already sort of booked in with a local Peugeot guy anyway so not the end of the world really - just a bit more for him to do now lol.

The rest is fairly easy to do and it's nice to know that the brake lines etc passed scrutiny!
Hiya, everyone has beaten me to it!

[Image: IMG_20160206_085320_zps0xco45x3.jpg]

Yeh so bit of an epic fail on the rust. It was going to be done after the MOT but obviously didnt make it through. With the shock bushings it was the TA Technix shock that was fine and my expensive AVO GTZ shock that wasnt up tho scratch. Really annoying as the cost so much and have essentially only lasted 2 years. Tbh the whole coilover and solid top mount thing is annoying me. I might just look at going back to standard mounts and bilstein shocks and 60mm springs.

[Image: IMG_20160206_085138_zps5m6eqfoj.jpg]

Plan is to send it up to chambers to have the rust done, cambelt and reMOT. Also to look at the knocking issue and maybe ill ask him to treat and protect the boot floor.

The good news today though was that it drove perfectly to the garage which is probably the best part of 25 mins away. Did the journey there at 60 on the motorway and didnt lose any water or have anything weird happen. On the drive back I knew i wouldnt be able to drive it for a while so took the country route home and gave it a bit of the beans. It was great fun and the knock didnt appear at all all day! One thing that did appear was a loud rattle when letting off from WOT at around 4-5k.

Having seen bash drive the car onto the brake testing rollers i have to say the rear is definitely too low. It looks great without someone in it but then its silly when someone is in it.

Anyway, its all parked up now. A few parts to buy and itll be ready to have the rust done and then to sail through the MOT! Big Grin
Yellow wheels and it would have passed Tongue
I wouldnt call avo road car stuff expensive.
Give us a shot if you wanna sell me the top mounts.

Yeah springs and shocks are lovely but 4 years of brutal coilovers have harden me (not in that way lol )
Rallyes seem to be the only 306 that rot on the bulkhead, some theories about having thinner paint than other 306 iirc 

I don't think I've looked underneath any 306 recently that hasn't needed the front crossmember welding lol, all damage done from years ago mostly from people unable to use a proper jacking point. 

My 6 occasionally has a Rattle letting off the throttle around 4.5k too, I've put it down to either the cat starting to go or the baffles in the mid box of the magnex
Was the loud rattle at the back? The spare wheel hook is loose without the cage on so might be that!
Nope the loud rattle is from the engine somewhere. Sounded exactly like steves rover.
(07-02-2016, 06:11 PM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]Nope the loud rattle is from the engine somewhere. Sounded exactly like steves rover.

headgasket?
(07-02-2016, 06:25 PM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-02-2016, 06:11 PM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]Nope the loud rattle is from the engine somewhere. Sounded exactly like steves rover.

headgasket?

more likely to be the racoon filter?
(07-02-2016, 06:30 PM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-02-2016, 06:25 PM)cully Wrote: [ -> ]
(07-02-2016, 06:11 PM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]Nope the loud rattle is from the engine somewhere. Sounded exactly like steves rover.

headgasket?

more likely to be the racoon filter?

do you remember the part number ? ........094882

Wink
(07-02-2016, 06:11 PM)Eeyore Wrote: [ -> ]Nope the loud rattle is from the engine somewhere. Sounded exactly like steves rover.

Oh dear lol!
So, few things sorted today. Firstly the lack of number plate lighting... Err, there's no lamps in there, guess that'll explain it! Confused

[Image: IMG_20160210_094532258_zps9emen4jh.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20160210_094749319_zpsvb4rxi4m.jpg]

Next up, swapped the crappy AVO shock for the decent TA shock (never thought I'd say that ha). The metal sleeve on the AVO shock was considerably smaller than the rubber mount orifice, like waving a stick in a bucket, no idea why the mount has failed so quickly.

[Image: IMG_20160210_101921825_zpszh2ygbka.jpg]

While I was round the back changed the fuel filter as well, looks like it's been there a while.

[Image: IMG_20160210_103027745_zpshl4bejqk.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20160210_105329585_zpsxwbp9spc.jpg]

Round to the front... There's the rust hole on one side lol.

[Image: IMG_20160210_111518682_zpsyhec55j8.jpg]

On to the ripped steering rack gaiter. Bit of a pain with lack of access. The TRE came off surprisingly easy, but the boot didn't, they aren't fixed on the 'thin' end, but are ridiculously tight so once they're on, aren't coming off easily! I pulled it inside out to get some more grip on it but ended up having to cut it off. It seems to have been rubbing on a solid PAS pipe so that may need loosening and twisting out of the way when we do the subframe.

[Image: IMG_20160210_120015045_zpsd3gbrp03.jpg]

Unfortunately fitting the new one didn't work out. The fat end is far too wide, this is fully on and there's no way you could get rid of all that slack. So will need to buy a specific one - or just let Carl do it tbh. I have left it 'hanging' like that for now, should be fine for the drive over there though. That track rod was noted as having slight play so no major loss if it gets a bit of grit in there as it'll need doing eventually anyway.

[Image: IMG_20160210_121741980_zpset6ynz7o.jpg]

Drained the old oil with the engine flush in - should be well flushed after doing about 50 miles with it in there lol. Nothing too exciting, no metal in it or anything. Oil was very thin but maybe that's what the flush does to it, I've never used engine flush before. There were a couple of big 'gloops' of semi solid old/carbon/crap coming out though so it does work well lol.

[Image: IMG_20160210_125807382_zpsbi6hcrdt.jpg]

Obligatory 'car on stands and messy driveway' shot...

[Image: IMG_20160210_131040074_zps0wumc9xz.jpg]
Awesome work mate. Ill be taking it to Carls with bates on friday evening and hopefully itll get patched up over the weekend!
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