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XUD9 head gasket change video
#1
Hi Darren did you ever do one of these? 

I am attempting it when the rain gets warmer up here in Manchester on an NAD XUD9 and could certainly use the help as its my first!
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#2
Im afraid I dont think I ever made a video specifically covering a head gasket on an XUD, however I have multiple videos showing a cambelt change, turbo change, and pump change, between these three it pretty much covers everything other than physically un bolting the head bolts Smile
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#3
I have the haynes manual, and believe you me I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your XUD9 stuff but I picked up that there are more "efficient" ways of cyl head removal perhaps than slavishly following haynes, And despite the head gasket being such an area of inherent weakness in the psa design I haven`t found an illustrated walk through on here...I haven`t done one before but would certainly try with a walkthrough from an expert!

ps the 305 with the supercharger was immense!
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#4
not sure if you have read this
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/printthread.php?tid=616
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#5
Thanks Vincent1
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#6
Not saying you shouldn't repair it...

But could swap the whole lump for a turbo xud9 for probably the same amount of time and less money
Wishes for more power...
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#7
(27-01-2016, 08:41 PM)Piggy Wrote: Not saying you shouldn't repair it...

But could swap the whole lump for a turbo xud9 for probably the same amount of time and less money

what Piggy said, drop a turbo lump in, less hassle and you'll have lots of fun . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#8
Now that is remarkable as I have a low mileage xud9te engine and box, that has been stored for about six months with a bulk sand delivery bag over it, with a latex glove over the inlet...it turns over still but im concerned that it may have degraded and the donor car had one of those button immobilizer boxes in the centre console its been removed by cutting through the driveshafts, it has the td gearbox on it and im not sure if the clutch pushes or pulls, I havent got the right bonnet on the donor car, ( no intercooler liner) and the non turbo vehicle i got 56000miles from new had some sort of waste oil system fitted to it but the big issue is that it was a professional dog sitters vehicle and despite my best efforts I just dont seem to be able to get rid of the smell of wet stinky dog, I got the bug actually watching mrlobbs xud9 videos, my daily drive is a na 405 estate but i have had a brief taste of td power!
A mate told me it would be easier to just replace the HG on the NA car (it would be my first) than remove the na and replace with a TD, (never done this either) but I burn with the idea of having a "sleeper" with about 100hp that will return 50 mpg and also get my carp fishing gear into, the car waiting for the decision is a 405 style, no unreliable aircon, manual window wipers, no chrome trim but the doors tailgate and bonnet open and close like a new one! It does have a few dents mind. I have looked on here for the xantia type inlet manifold with the fmic, but the standard tmic would do for my idea of tuning it would be to get the turbo operating at lower revs and to actually raise the hp and increase the MPG if this can be done, I dont want a car with a microprocessor in it ...nor something that goes into limp mode xud9s are brilliant with clean oil and air filters regularly attended to in my experience... and are still probably the most reliable cheap to run and fix machines on the road, plus I have been able to treat mine to genuine oem parts being offloaded on ebay by a couple of Peugeot main dealers...whats not to like!
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#9
Just wack the xud9te in.
Be quicker to fit. If pump had diesel in it, it will be 100% finr tbh!
Mild stg1 tune be fine. Standard blower be fine.
Use the nad driveshafts witg the xud9te box. Clutches be fine
Wishes for more power...
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#10
Photo 
can anyone tell me which cable this will need?


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#11
standard td pull type cable.
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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#12
would it have the auto adjuster thingy on it?
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#13
yes, don't think there are any manual adjust cables that are a straight fit.
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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#14
I have had a closer look at the td engine, and the Bosch fuel pump has lots of gubbins on it that don`t seem to appear in the threads on the forum pages, some type of roller switch on the throttle arm for starters and two wiring connectors also the connecting blocks/plugs on the engine wiring harness have been cut off...
it would be going in to a n a 1997  diesel and the td came out of a 405 td saloon 1997 that has a keypad immobilizer..Its lashing down outside but will post photos asap as I need to decide if I have made an error with the TD engine purchase. which would be a shame as its a genuine very low mileage one with docs and history..but i now suspect its off a catalytic car with all the additional palaver on the Bosch Pump...no good to me!
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#15
(26-03-2016, 08:16 PM)unclebeast Wrote: I have had a closer look at the td engine, and the Bosch fuel pump has lots of gubbins on it that don`t seem to appear in the threads on the forum pages, some type of roller switch on the throttle arm for starters and two wiring connectors also the connecting blocks/plugs on the engine wiring harness have been cut off...
it would be going in to a n a 1997  diesel and the td came out of a 405 td saloon 1997 that has a keypad immobilizer..Its lashing down outside but will post photos asap as I need to decide if I have made an error with the TD engine purchase. which would be a shame as its a genuine very low mileage one with docs and history..but i now suspect its off a catalytic car with all the additional palaver on the Bosch Pump...no good to me!

    This

        this


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#16
That pump looks OK to me u just have to take the ignition hot wire from the pic below and attach it to the pump solinod as shown in the other pic :-)        

Let me no how u get on
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#17
Looks like a beauty haha, what milage has the donor block done? look sin good nick from outside.

As said above you literally need 1 x +12v wire to the solenoid valve on the pump (which is handily exposded on your pump), and you're good to go, no need to worry about immob etc, all other things bolt straight up, may need to adjust the downpipe on the exhaust (someone correct me if i'm wrong though, but this is just a simple slit I think).

Drash on!
[Image: 22f2b6b2-758b-4c1c-96fb-6fa9c6059b13_zpsf306b56b.jpg]
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#18
    Hi Dave, The picture with the armour cut away was supplied by PJ Daddy, I havent touched the lump yet, I am an absolute beginner and saw a few items on the pump that suggest that as its from a late model 405 there may be some  type of ecu, control box required, I just dont know?
The whole engine with gearbox all ancillaries garratt turbo etc (but with 2 main engine loom connector blocks cut off) and the driveshafts cut off... the donor car had FSH up to 48000 miles and has around 68000 miles from new (i have v5c and docs) My project is a late 405 estate straight diesel, also less than 60000 miles with history but a suspected blown head gasket...but with the type of pump fitted to the td engine I may be missing the ecu/control box if it is a cat diesel with some type of emission control box in car...I lack the know how, my daily drive is a NAD 405 estate and its bombproof but when fully laden its slug slow and I get burned by hgvs which terrifies my wife!!! my dream is a td 405 estate tweaked on the pump and wastegate...100hp would be nice and 50mpg, without any "Coal" Darren Lobb said this can be done.... I have the TD downpipe!
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#19
As long as your pump dosnt have this white part with a plug on it then u will be OK this pic is a ecu controlled pump the part I am on about is at the back of the pump down low  think its a Brown plug let us no  wen u get a look at it :-)


   
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#20
I dont know what this is or does, would it be part of ecu/emissions control DJ? A pipe leads to the banjo type fitment (by yellow paint on middle picture) and it has electrical connection on rhs


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#21
Looks the same as my pump as far as I no its some sort of solinod on my pump I just joined the wire to the hot wire on the pump and its runs fine hope this help's how far are u on with the car any way u started in to it yet :-)
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#22
(04-04-2016, 12:36 PM)pioneer DJ paddy Wrote: Looks the same as my pump as far as I no its some sort of solinod on my pump I just joined the wire to the hot wire on the pump and its runs fine hope this help's how far are u on with the car any way u started in to it yet :-)

I want to attempt to start the engine on my hoist before doing the swop as its been stood awhile...I saw a video of Mr Lobb doing it, just need a procedure. plus I will whip off the gearbox and check out the clutch, and do the cambelt and waterpump whilst its out, anything else you would recommend, the leak off pipes are in good order and the glow plugs look brand new, kids off school this week so opportunities few and far between.
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#23
The solenoid you're referring to in your photo is called "LFB" which is for controlling Load-Dependent Start of Injection, i.e. it receives pressure from the governor system and increases advance relative to the load on the engine, rather than just engine speed - that's what that thin pipe running down the front of the pump is for. The solenoid power on the front is just so you can increase the timing when cold - it's inactive once the engine speed/load increases enough as it moves past the amount of advance it increases.

Not required to be connected.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#24
(04-04-2016, 03:26 PM)Ruan Wrote: The solenoid you're referring to in your photo is called "LFB" which is for controlling Load-Dependent Start of Injection, i.e. it receives pressure from the governor system and increases advance relative to the load on the engine, rather than just engine speed - that's what that thin pipe running down the front of the pump is for. The solenoid power on the front is just so you can increase the timing when cold - it's inactive once the engine speed/load increases enough as it moves past the amount of advance it increases.

Not required to be connected.

Thank you Ruan...does that mean this bosch pump isnt an ecu version? what does the black box on throttle arm with the roller wheel have (top left middle photo)
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#25
As shown above - as long as it doesn't have:

[Image: attachment.php?aid=26933]

It's a non-ECU pump.

The microswitch you're referring to is the EGR switch, this is what would cause the EGR to turn on/off depending on where the throttle is, the fact it has this instantly tells me the pump likely isn't an ECU pump.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#26
Well, its in the nad 405! we took out the old engine by sitting the shell on axle stands (haynes) and dropping the lump with a low hydraulic jack, as we negotiated the nad under the front end it tipped off the Jack and damaged the water connection under the diesel filter... My old hand wind engine hoist wouldnt lift high enough to take it out through the top! also It seems the driveshaft on the passenger side needs the outer splined section changed, clutch cable is different but having never thought about ever doing something like this until I saw this forum its been an education!

https://youtu.be/Z27smlrTBMM She LIVES...and that is with a quater tank of cooking oil left in from the NAD...XUD9 what a Beast! With neither a downpipe/exhaust fitted no air filter or cleaner and a cool bodge to get the 306 intercooler to fit on the 405 inlet (back right stud doesnt line up!) not forgetting the dexterous use of superglue on the said gasket...Remarkably quiet...That air inlet is crying out for a sports cone!
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#27
SOS the engine is a Peugeot 405 td on an L plate out of a saloon it is now sat in a non turbo 405 estate on a P plate..But the TD needs a Pull Clutch and having tried to order one I ran into the newbie unforseen problem...Which cable?  As the non turbo is a push type I think.

So far theres a FKC1401 1522mm long and a FKC 1473 1530mm long but no one is sure which it is...But the motor factors couldnt say.

Were stuck without this can anyone help?
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#28
https://youtu.be/9uoFvzXfNbQ

Hi Ruan the engine seems to be running fine with none of the plugs connected,nor the position wheel thingy , just a single live to the solenoid...Brilliant! Thank you so much for all the help and advice!
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