Easter Weekend Overhaul: Advice Please!

[bashbarnard]

Was gonna say looks like a slide off one to me. You need to disconnect the lines to do an axle anyway.

[Toms306]

I've definitely seen pics in a guide thread where someone changed a beam without disconnecting the brake lines, it wasn't on here, think it may've been 205 owners or something, but was a 306 beam I'm sure. Simon (C2K) told me about it I think. Can't find the thread now though so doubting myself!

If it turns out you need to remove them, make sure you get some penetrating fluid on the bleed nipples asap, will be frustrating if you get everything done then snap a nipple off trying to bleed it!!

[bashbarnard]

I always disconnect the lines. Some you can undo the back plate with all the brakes attached and hang aside. Imo not worth doing. May as well change the fluid out while your there.

[Toms306]

But you do risk damaging nipples, lines, crossthreading unions etc like that. I had a hell of a job sorting the brake lines on the china HDi...you've seen the 'spaghetti' style lines it has now haha. If I could've just hung the calipers I'd have much rather done that in hindsight.

[Kezzieboy]

BOOM! Was a bit if a faff, took some lateral thinking, but the whole arm which bolts to the boot floor splits from the beam, and then you can thread the beam through the brake pipes/cables. 

Rebuilt the rear end, brakes etc are back on. Moved onto the front, drivers side first, shock off fairly easy but getting them on took some force. Passenger side the same, but lost a little gearbox oil, will this be okay? It was a pretty small volume, and I guess it shouldn't make much difference. 

Only thing I can't figure out, how do you tell how far up the shock the upright should go? On both sides there are two different protrusions, one short one lower down, and a couple longer ones slightly higher up. 

On the pass side, the short one goes fits in the split in the upright, but this isn't the case on the drivers side. Does anyone know a sure fire way of getting it in the right place? 

Aside from that, suspension is done, just need to pop the exhaust back on again, and then it's ready for a test drive. After that if I have time I'll do oil and filter change, and some other odds and ends, but they can be done in Brum anyway. 

[Toms306]

Nice one, thinking outside the box lol.

As for the schocks, are they OE units? Theres a small 'flare' that sits on the hub when its in far enough. As long as the slit is lined up, put a jack under the hub to take the weight and give it a 'tap' with a hammer to seat it.

[Kezzieboy]

Yeah, beats snapping bleed nipples, like you say!

They are, yeah. There is sort of a flare, but there are also these little protrusions, so I wasn't sure. We've got them bolted in at the top, so they're definitely lined up properly. We did wonder if they were sided, and they are, but they'll only work one way round because of the tabs for the drop links, so I'm still a little unsure!

[Poodle]

Not seen them without the locating tab on before, pic? As you say, just make sure the droplink mount is lined up right. Having them bolted in at the top doesn't guarantee it's lined up btw; they can rotate on the top mount.

[Kezzieboy]

Ahh, then I guess the little lump is supposed to go down the split then. Do they just rotate by force?

[Toms306]

Yeah that's right, may need to hammer the drop link bracket to turn the shock.

[Kezzieboy]

Sweet, not too much hassle then.

Finished the passenger side, caught the down pipe with the new seal and stuff (left the old studs on, f*ck trying to get those out). Rest of the exhaust is ready to go on.

[Connor]

Yeah I had that thought when replacing my exhaust gasket, f*ck snapping those lol

[Kezzieboy]

Done the big stuff, took it for a drive, all good. No issues going through the gears so hopefully the loss of oil is no biggy. Proper tractor spec now though! Pics to follow.

[Connor]

Well tbf these boxes are meant to take 1.9 litres, the last time you/someone else filled it up probably put the whole 2 litre bottles in, so the tiny bit you spilled won't make much of a difference

[Kezzieboy]

Yeah, I figure it'll be alright. Tractor spec pictures, and one of the sad exhaust!

[Toms306]

Lol, that still needs to settle! Plus are they tight arse 50 profiles?

Glad you got it all sorted though!!

[Kezzieboy]

They are 50s yeah.

Here's an interesting one, what's the gold box?? My motor that's just come off on the left, replacement on the right. 

[bigcheez2k3]

They are 50s yeah.

Here's an interesting one, what's the gold box?? My motor that's just come off on the left, replacement on the right. 

Eh?

[Toms306]

Might help if the pic was there lol...

[Kezzieboy]

Stupid phone

[Toms306]

It's a bodge for something! No idea what though.

[Kezzieboy]

Nor me it's just spliced in to the wiper loom,  not connected to anything else. 

[Seb_Ryan]

Flux capacitor.. Only reasonable explanation..

[Kezzieboy]

It's bridging the black and grey wires, won't let me upload a photo

[bigcheez2k3]

A resistor or fuse would be my guess. Quite why it's there I have no idea.

[Kezzieboy]

Well whatever it is, it's back on the car now, as the replacement I bought didn't work. D'oh.

[cully]

looks like a high power resistor

[Kezzieboy]

Any idea why it'd be there...?

[Toms306]

Probably to bodge something when it didn't work...hence the replacement not working...

Did your auto setting work? Just wondering if someone had bodged an intermittent in somehow instead, electronics aren't my strong point though so that could be impossible lol.

[cully]

probably the high or low speed shunt in the motor was faulty, so they bridged a resistor to give the second speed on the first winding