best drill bits

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best drill bits
#1
what is the best drill bits you lads use for drilling out studs etc?
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#2
Cobalt bits, they go through anything.
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#3
I think I used a Heller one when drilling the holes for my vice on the workbench. 13mm drill bit needing to go through 3mm steel plate which it did fine then about 5" of wood underneath.

Machine Mart sell them, came in a green packet.
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#4
we have had a fare few drill bits from machine mart and they just either snap or go blunt,
but not sure what make they were,
I will keep the make in mind bigcheez2k3 as it does ring a bell mind.
r3k1555 I will have a look at Cobalt bits, as my dad did have something that went thought a bolt with out a bother.
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#5
I can't vouch for the longevity of it as it was only 2 holes but we kept it lubricated (giggity) with WD40 as you should when doing anything like that.
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#6
(27-02-2015, 02:39 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote: I can't vouch for the longevity of it as it was only 2 holes but we kept it lubricated (giggity) with WD40 as you should when doing anything like that.

we did keep them lubricated, when we were drilling, my dad ended up snapping them or the end just died,  

are these any good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19pc-ULTRA-HAR...2a4143976a
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#7
Dormer.
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#8
(27-02-2015, 02:41 PM)procta Wrote:
(27-02-2015, 02:39 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote: I can't vouch for the longevity of it as it was only 2 holes but we kept it lubricated (giggity) with WD40 as you should when doing anything like that.

we did keep them lubricated, when we were drilling, my dad ended up snapping them or the end just died,  

are these any good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19pc-ULTRA-HAR...2a4143976a

Those look similar to the set I've got.
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#9
Yup cobalt bits are the shizzle.
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#10
The Bosch titanium coated ones are good for the price.

Above that really good ones start getting bloody expensive.
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#11
Dormer with a doubt.
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#12
Another shout for former best bits I've used. You can pick them up cheap enough on ebay.
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#13
go to nearest "toolstation" they sell silverline branded cobalt drills in twin packs and work well, I bought a shed load after trying them out.

do not buy the packs of silverline jobber drills----as usefull as spaghetti for drilling custard.
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#14
How fast are you drilling? They will go blunt quickly if you run them at full tilt. I've been using cheap drill bits for yonks without too much issue, as long as i treat them gently. I found halfords ones are pretty easy to snap though...
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#15
Poundland!

Il never forget the day I knocked the drill onto hammer setting & then tried to drill a number plate with a pound land drill bit... The bit literally 'unravelled' if that makes sense? It looked like a straight piece of metal & it was only used for a couple of seconds until I realised it was hammering!
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#16
(28-02-2015, 07:44 AM)JJ0063 Wrote: Poundland!

Il never forget the day I knocked the drill onto hammer setting & then tried to drill a number plate with a pound land drill bit... The bit literally 'unravelled' if that makes sense? It looked like a straight piece of metal & it was only used for a couple of seconds until I realised it was hammering!

That is how most cheap drill bits are made to be honest, twisted then just hardened and ground on the tips, higher quality bits will be ground straight out of a HSS blank. Whilst cobalt can take a bit more heat, they also usually have a much thicker web for strength, which means hand drilling will take a lot more thrust to cut compared to more normal drill with a thinner web.

Get something HSS, 135* point angle and ideally with split point tips, Heller, Dormer, Osbourne, Titex are all damned good quality without being insane price wise, and if you look after them should last you many years even drilling hardened steels, titanium alloys, etc.
 Then buy a cheap set of ebay specials for those shitty jobs where you need to knock them in with a hammer and don't care if they die.
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#17
A lot of it is how you use them. You could have done of the best drill bits going and still destroy them prematurely if you've got the drill flat out through a bit of 4mm steel with no lube.
I use Bosch titanium ones at work like Dum says and they are very good. Funnily enough cheapish masonry bits, I use B&Q own brand ones and they are great for cheap ones haha
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#18
Ah this explains why I get through so many drill bits...I'm an impatient bastard and have blunted/snapped several expensive drill bits so far. lol
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#19
(28-02-2015, 07:27 PM)Niall Wrote: A lot of it is how you use them. You could have done of the best drill bits going and still destroy them prematurely if you've got the drill flat out through a bit of 4mm steel with no lube.
I use Bosch titanium ones at work like Dum says and they are very good. Funnily enough cheapish masonry bits, I use B&Q own brand ones and they are great for cheap ones haha

niall, how do you do a job with your drill bits? as I suspect my dads using them wrong, do oil the job right up before hand? to try and keep the drill bit cool.
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#20
Depends what you're drilling mate. Most I normally do at work is about 2mm steel doing panel casings. The key is slow RPM, fair bit of pressure on the drill and to try and keep the bit cool, some sort of cutting oil (although I just use WD40 as I hardly put mine through much pressure)
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#21
(28-02-2015, 08:19 PM)Niall Wrote: Depends what you're drilling mate. Most I normally do at work is about 2mm steel doing panel casings. The key is slow RPM, fair bit of pressure on the drill and to try and keep the bit cool, some sort of cutting oil (although I just use WD40 as I hardly put mine through much pressure)

my dad was using engine oil, so wd40 is the best for the job. I will keep that in mind.
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#22
No all you're trying to do is keep the bit cooler. Less friction = cooler so.....

Most people use them to fast and that just wrecks them.
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#23
(28-02-2015, 08:25 PM)Niall Wrote: No all you're trying to do is keep the bit cooler. Less friction = cooler so.....

Most people use them to fast and that just wrecks them.

I think my dad might be going at them too quickly then, as he has killed some good bits, But he is too hand fisted with stuff, Many things he has knackered up, and me and my mum have had to re do!
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#24
A decent drill makes a difference, but the operator makes the biggest differece...

When drilling metal i find ( even with hss) slow speeds and plenty of pressure is the key, second you go to fast, smoke flys, tip melts and bits wrecked..

Slow and steady and the drill bits will last years, or months if you use them alot like I do! Drill press / pillar drill also everytime where its possible, will safe bits this way also!

Also worth noting, ive never had proper "cutting fluid" in my life until a few months ago when i aqquired a bottle for free...wow..never look back, well worth having, magic stuff!
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#25
getting some good info! I am taking notes of all this like, as I will be doing some drilling work on my car, ( front droop stops)
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#26
Yes go too fast and the lube/cutting oil burns off (smoke). You need to apply a good amount of pressure and try to keep the bit straight. Using proper cutting oil will make a difference, also starting with a pilot and moving up a couple of sizes and so on.....
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#27
those workforce ones from aldi..

had a set of those for years, probably made by dormer or someone silly high quality but they are still razor sharp..

RS bits are pricey but good.,
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#28
What about high quality screwdriver bits? Everytime I try and put together something that needs screws put in I end up knackering the head.
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#29
(21-03-2015, 04:31 PM)Spoonaltap Wrote: What about high quality screwdriver bits? Everytime I try and put together something that needs screws put in I end up knackering the head.

Hammer?
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#30
(21-03-2015, 04:31 PM)Spoonaltap Wrote: What about high quality screwdriver bits? Everytime I try and put together something that needs screws put in I end up knackering the head.

Wera or  Milwaukee Impact bits
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