getting hot when stationary

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getting hot when stationary
#1
this is a real pain...

when on motorway, fast A roads etc, the temp sits at 80. give or take a degree. (when its not spewing oil)

but after that, when cruising round side roads/town or stationary it starts to climb.


got to 100degrees twice today after the breakdown...before I wacked the interior heaters on to help.

I am running two stats, one on top pipe, one original with the 2.1 at the back lower rad pipe...
should I sack off the one on the back of engine?!

should I try gettibg rid of the ac rad...help fans do their job!!??

I got a fan swith and use it at 90 immediately...but still raises
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#2
Sounds like your there's not enough air flow to the rad. It's all good and well having a large rad but if only 1/4 of it is getting a decency cold feed it would be no use. Same goes with intercoolers.
Does it still clime with fan and interior fans on?
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#3
Why would you want a stat on the lower rad pipe? Surely that one doesn't get hot enough to open? And if that doesn't open it wont allow the water flow when the top one opens....

Correct me if I'm wrong though!
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#4
it was there with the 2.1. Oem.

but thats what Im thinking...limiting the flow.

I did move some stuff round to aid air flow but think I will sack off the ac rad for now.
maybe even add a fan on rear of rad.

it does go down again, as soon as moving or slowly with interior fans on.
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#5
Get rid of a stat, no need for 2
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#6
(11-10-2013, 06:40 PM)Piggy Wrote: it was there with the 2.1. Oem.

but thats what Im thinking...limiting the flow.

I did move some stuff round to aid air flow but think I will sack off the ac rad for now.
maybe even add a fan on rear of rad.

it does go down again, as soon as moving or slowly with interior fans on.

Did you actually fix your air con and regas it?, if so whats the point in keeping it.
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#7
Not bled properly? Id be looking into getting some bigger fans.



And looking into whats causing it too =/
On the 306 waiting list.
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#8
ac be sorted in spring...if everything else works out.

its blead fine. and I cant physically fit any bigger fans! lol!
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#9
You're still hitting those kind of temps?!

Mine barely even sees 90 in heavy traffic. Somethings definitely not right there...
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#10
Surely if you have 2 stats the water from the rad thats been cooled is now not hot enough to open the sceond stat? Que overheating.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#11
I only did it coz dumdums guide to fitting a 2.1 said to keep both....

but now I come to think....hmmm
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#12
(13-10-2013, 04:02 PM)Piggy Wrote: I only did it coz dumdums guide to fitting a 2.1 said to keep both....

but now I come to think....hmmm

The usual cause of this is a worn or damaged water pump.
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#13
its brand new?!!

The whole engine has been rebuilt with new parts!??

weirder still this eve on way back from minehead...

bombing along outside lane for about half hour then whole motorway grinds to a hault. 5mile tailback.
I start panicing thinking she guna boil herself to death, wack my fans on...but it never goes about 80/82degrees...half hour sat in slow/stationary and no issues.
then a blast up birdlip hill and for the next 10min Im blasting the heaters on hot coz it hits 100!!?
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#14
(13-10-2013, 08:42 PM)Piggy Wrote: its brand new?!!

The whole engine has been rebuilt with new parts!??

weirder still this eve on way back from minehead...

bombing along outside lane for about half hour then whole motorway grinds to a hault. 5mile tailback.
I start panicing thinking she guna boil herself to death, wack my fans on...but it never goes about 80/82degrees...half hour sat in slow/stationary and no issues.
then a blast up birdlip hill and for the next 10min Im blasting the heaters on hot coz it hits 100!!?

Just going thru the usual check list here, silted radiator restricting water flow? Reverse flush it.
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#15
the rad is new!!!! nissens! changed it to try and fix this issue!
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#16
(14-10-2013, 11:57 AM)Piggy Wrote: the rad is new!!!! nissens! changed it to try and fix this issue!

Okay, next, Pressure cap on the header tank, if it's not holding a pressure the coolant will boil up.
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#17
thats all fella.

pressures are all fine...let me try all the things I want to try before you fire ya next suggestion round!
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#18
^^ On a forum, turns down help, dafuq?
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#19
(14-10-2013, 08:12 PM)colin247 Wrote:
(14-10-2013, 11:57 AM)Piggy Wrote: the rad is new!!!! nissens! changed it to try and fix this issue!

Okay, next, Pressure cap on the header tank, if it's not holding a pressure the coolant will boil up.

Not a petrol - these engines should never need the idea of a "pressurized" cooling system to raise the boiling point of water...

If that's happening, it's already overheated.

Check the plumbing - sounds to me like typical restriction somewhere or easy route - i.e. there's a path where the water can easily route rather than go around the radiator...

The two thermostats are NOT helping - look back to the whole "bypassing the heatermatrix" post I did - that'll explain why.
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#20
guna remove a stat...

not sure which be best...but thinking the lower/rear one.

the overheating is reduced massively if I blast the heaters on full heat!!! but the air flow to the rad is also badly restricted...fmic is rammed against front grill...then theres the ac rad...

so hoping to fix these three issues soon...and putting oil cooler back on Im hoping may help too
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#21
I think the Turbo Diesels run at 1.4 Bar or 20 psi.
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#22
they dont NEED it to run well though...unlike the petrols.

My unc had a xud xantia...ran it with a tiny hole in rad cap for 6mths coz it kept things just right!!!
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#23
Get rid of a second stat, only place you want the stat is where the hot water is LEAVING the engine, anywhere else is going to cause issues...

If a fan isnt keeping it cool off load, something is seriously wrong, id say that other stat isnt opening, or you have water bypassing somewhere..it will drop to stat temp within 10 seconds with a fan on idle....

If you cant remove the other stat then flip the spring so its jammed open..
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#24
Does sound like that second stat is the problem due to it being on the cold side, ie after water has cooled in the rad. If it's say an 80 degree stat, even if the water is 100 degrees going into the rad it'll probably be less than 80 degrees coming out, with a brand new rad...

And are you sure it's 100% air free?
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#25
okeydokey.

As said...theres very little air getting to the actual rad...and the slimlines are on the ac rad too...so not much is helping.
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#26
If the stat isn't open there could be a huge air bubble trapped behind it that you wouldn't be able to bleed out, forgot to mention that.
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#27
Right, last try, probably doesn't apply but here goes, if you converted your car from a N/A to a Turbo Diesel and have kept the original header tank then that would cause a problem as it runs at 1 bar compared to the Turbos 1.4 bar, apart from that I would go with the "cold" thermostat.
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#28
Im guna come back and comment after I have done what needs doing and fixed it
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#29
removed rear stat...

it has stamped on it a 97 degree opening temp...

hmm Im thinking that may have been the main issue!!!
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#30
Nice...! Things aren't looking too good for XUD's a while before they hit 97! Tongue
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