have been playing with the rear tracking Toe today
using the string method,
I'm quite impressed on how accurate you can read the toe from it
i did have a good heads up as i had the printed sheet from my laser alignment to compare it against
if anything its more accurate than the computer system once set up right
basically you set both fronts, centre Axel or fixed body point to the same distance on the string and the same for the rear.
i set mine at at 50mm all round from the centre of the wheel caps
then once the strings are set both sides
start your measurements
for the fronts
set the steering by taking the measurement for the front rim edge on both sides and turning the steering wheel till the measurement is equal
then measure
front (A) of wheel, rear (B) of same wheel
then some maths
A-B=toe for that wheel if is say 1 its toe in if its -1 its toe out by 1mm
the rears are the same but you cant adjust the steering to centre them this is where the bolts need slackening and the beam bumping to bring the measurements better
but you will find the initial 5mm setting will probably go off a little but not by much but you should get the beam track better if not equal both sides, it wont go parallel as th rear beam is set with a certain toe
but if like mine i got it better but not perfect something is still screwy probably the wheel Axel stub which was my suspicions in the beginning
using the string method,
I'm quite impressed on how accurate you can read the toe from it
i did have a good heads up as i had the printed sheet from my laser alignment to compare it against
if anything its more accurate than the computer system once set up right
basically you set both fronts, centre Axel or fixed body point to the same distance on the string and the same for the rear.
i set mine at at 50mm all round from the centre of the wheel caps
then once the strings are set both sides
start your measurements
for the fronts
set the steering by taking the measurement for the front rim edge on both sides and turning the steering wheel till the measurement is equal
then measure
front (A) of wheel, rear (B) of same wheel
then some maths
A-B=toe for that wheel if is say 1 its toe in if its -1 its toe out by 1mm
the rears are the same but you cant adjust the steering to centre them this is where the bolts need slackening and the beam bumping to bring the measurements better
but you will find the initial 5mm setting will probably go off a little but not by much but you should get the beam track better if not equal both sides, it wont go parallel as th rear beam is set with a certain toe
but if like mine i got it better but not perfect something is still screwy probably the wheel Axel stub which was my suspicions in the beginning