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		some of you will know what i'm on about some won't 
i posted a picture on the Oc facebook page and it has provoked quite a few replys both positive and negative
 
what i posted was a clone with the centre drilled out, the idea behind this is to make it easyer/cheaper for me to get the bloody things ballanced
 
what are your thoughts?
     
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		20-07-2016, 06:18 PM 
(This post was last modified: 20-07-2016, 06:18 PM by bashbarnard.)
	
	 
	
		this was amazing. so many facebook mechanics. so i have no view on this as i cant say if they are structurally sound or not man. maybe who knows? imo get someone who knows what they are talking about to take a look 
  
also assuming you drilled from the back using the bore to centralise>
	
	
	
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		it is drilled out smaller than the wheel bore as to not affect the wheel bolt castings it is bored to 57mm which should take plastic blank centre caps from evil bay
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		20-07-2016, 06:31 PM 
(This post was last modified: 20-07-2016, 06:32 PM by Dum-Dum.)
	
	 
	
		My main issue is the worry of how perfectly central you have it. I bet it wouldn't need to be out much to need extra weight and give high spots. 
 
Done on a lathe I'd have no issue.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		i ain't no mechanic, personally i can't see a problem with strength, however the weather is very hot and my brain may be addled lol, my only thought would be if you haven't drilled quite central it would throw the balance off, probs compensate in the wheel balancing anyway though . .  
	 
	
	
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		 (20-07-2016, 06:31 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote:  My main issue is the worry of how perfectly central you have it.  
 
Done on a lathe I'd have no issue. 
This.
	  
	
	
                                              
 
 
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		it wont need to be perfectly central as it will balance out with weight 
no different to running rims with chunks missing or weighty valve caps
 
being done in a lathe wont garrentee being central its only as good as the tool setter   
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Sure it'll be fine, not structural 
 
Weight differences close to the center matter far less than those at the edge. 
 
If you'd repaired keen damage or straightened a flat spot from hitting a pothole no one would bat an eyelid  
 
Weather has got to people, social media has gone nuts in recent days
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		will be fine, very common rally/rallycross mod on the old 1.6 205 gti wheels, most were never balanced ever either!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		The effect of being central will be lessened by the hole being in the centre too, in theory... 
And yes, same as valve caps, crap tyres etc... should be balanced out when a tyre is properly fitted and balanced 
 
Have you a link to the facebook, and a photo of the rear?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		cant link to the fb page as i cant copy the link at work as Fbook is blocked aparently people waste too much time on social media sites   
its on the "306oc.co.uk" facebook group page
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		personally i wouldnt have bothered. We have a dedicated machine for centreless wheels.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		One of the reasons I like the look of cyclones is the lack of centre cap...it's ruined that lol.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		 (20-07-2016, 08:49 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  One of the reasons I like the look of cyclones is the lack of centre cap...it's ruined that lol. 
sorry Tom ive ruined 4 for you   
    
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		I've done this with my winter wheels (xsara picasso) as nowhere within 20miles of me can do them!!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		 (20-07-2016, 08:59 PM)cully Wrote:   (20-07-2016, 08:49 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  One of the reasons I like the look of cyclones is the lack of centre cap...it's ruined that lol.  
sorry Tom ive ruined 4 for you   
Looking at the paint on those they were already ruined!   
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		there were replicas available that had centre caps anyway, relatively rare but are around, seen a set and the reverse castings were definitely not Peugeot. 
May even have been wheelmania but unsure
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		doubt there is any issue but i just think they look crap.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		 (20-07-2016, 07:14 PM)cully Wrote:  it wont need to be perfectly central as it will balance out with weight 
 
no different to running rims with chunks missing or weighty valve caps 
 
being done in a lathe wont garrentee being central its only as good as the tool setter   
Ah but I would suggest you are wrong there, it DOES need to be perfectly (to a tollerence) central to the bolt holes.
 
Yes it will balance out but if the center hole is not centered amongst the bolt holes then the axis on which the wheel spins will be different on the balancing machine compared to on the car.
 
As for the lathe thing I would suggest not. if you get a 4 jaw chuck where the jaws move evenly off one key then you could clamp it, possible even a 3 jaw chuck opening outwards onto the center bore of the wheel (if that makes sense).
 
Even with a chuck that moves individually it's still far easier to center perfectly compared to a hand drill (a pillar drill would obviously be better) as on a lathe you can spin it up and check the run out then adjust.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		 (20-07-2016, 09:28 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote:   (20-07-2016, 07:14 PM)cully Wrote:  it wont need to be perfectly central as it will balance out with weight 
 
no different to running rims with chunks missing or weighty valve caps 
 
being done in a lathe wont garrentee being central its only as good as the tool setter    
Ah but I would suggest you are wrong there, it DOES need to be perfectly (to a tollerence) central to the bolt holes. 
 
Yes it will balance out but if the center hole is not centered amongst the bolt holes then the axis on which the wheel spins will be different on the balancing machine compared to on the car. 
 
As for the lathe thing I would suggest not. if you get a 4 jaw chuck where the jaws move evenly off one key then you could clamp it, possible even a 3 jaw chuck opening outwards onto the center bore of the wheel (if that makes sense). 
 
Even with a chuck that moves individually it's still far easier to center perfectly compared to a hand drill (a pillar drill would obviously be better) as on a lathe you can spin it up and check the run out then adjust. If you find they won't balance without large weights, turn them around and balance them backwards directly on the centre bore. Just be aware that every measurement is the complete opposite.  
I have 2 sets of clones drilled/machined as there's nobody to do them within a 100 miles. 
The machined ones are considerably easier to balance than the drilled ones (mill/drill with holesaw)  
With decent caps fitted you can't tell the difference
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Surely if they balance well then should be ok?? What about the kerbed to absolute death wheels that are on some cars on the road? Some have chunks missing from the rim!! I prefer clones to look standard but that's just my view. Let us know how you get on
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		wheels centre on the spigot not the outer centre hole, itll be fine. 
 
 
to mount a wveel in a lathe, clamp up any psa 4 bolt flange in the chuck, bolt the wheel to that.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Hole needs to be centralised for the balancer, as others have said. Would have to be extremely careful balancing them backwards to make sure they sit evenly on the balancer shaft, what with the front face not being flat. No other problem with it than that though, certainly not a structural issue.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		21-07-2016, 07:35 AM 
(This post was last modified: 21-07-2016, 07:37 AM by C2K.)
	
	 
	
		 (20-07-2016, 07:14 PM)cully Wrote:  it wont need to be perfectly central as it will balance out with weight 
 
no different to running rims with chunks missing or weighty valve caps 
 
being done in a lathe wont garrentee being central its only as good as the tool setter   
If you used a 3 jaw chuck and tailstock (or even a 4 jaw chuck and a DTI) so you'd be hard pushed to be non-concentric unless the lathe was piss-poorly maintained.  Chances are it would be done on a vertical borer anyway by your local machining shop, not to mention any machinist worth his salt would be clocking the job before cutting.
 
I don't have a problem with taking the centres out but it's such a heath robinson way to do it with a holesaw.  Yes, the out of balance is at a low effective radius and will be easily counteracted by the addition of a weight at the rim with it's larger effective radius but for me, the surface finish of a holesaw versus a drill/reamer/endmill or a single point tool tip would be    . It is unlikely to affect anything structurally, and thus will have no safety implications but there is a reason people don't use a saw in metalwork for much other than preparing material lol.
 
I had cyclones for 9 years and never had an issue with wheel balancing so don't get the need for this myself, and was forced to use a couple of places other than my local tyre man in Peterborough too. I also rather liked the design of the wheel with no centre cap, much as Tom has suggested. Not a fan of the end product myself but each to his own!   
Edit: Forgot to mention Stef's point, my local place had a dedicated machine for centreless wheels too, I suppose this made life much easier.
	  
	
	
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		 (21-07-2016, 07:35 AM)C2K Wrote:   (20-07-2016, 07:14 PM)cully Wrote:  it wont need to be perfectly central as it will balance out with weight 
 
no different to running rims with chunks missing or weighty valve caps 
 
being done in a lathe wont garrentee being central its only as good as the tool setter    
If you used a 3 jaw chuck and tailstock (or even a 4 jaw chuck and a DTI) so you'd be hard pushed to be non-concentric unless the lathe was piss-poorly maintained.  Chances are it would be done on a vertical borer anyway by your local machining shop, not to mention any machinist worth his salt would be clocking the job before cutting. 
 
I don't have a problem with taking the centres out but it's such a heath robinson way to do it with a holesaw.  Yes, the out of balance is at a low effective radius and will be easily counteracted by the addition of a weight at the rim with it's larger effective radius but for me, the surface finish of a holesaw versus a drill/reamer/endmill or a single point tool tip would be   . It is unlikely to affect anything structurally, and thus will have no safety implications but there is a reason people don't use a saw in metalwork for much other than preparing material lol. 
 
I had cyclones for 9 years and never had an issue with wheel balancing so don't get the need for this myself, and was forced to use a couple of places other than my local tyre man in Peterborough too. I also rather liked the design of the wheel with no centre cap, much as Tom has suggested. Not a fan of the end product myself but each to his own!   
 
Edit: Forgot to mention Stef's point, my local place had a dedicated machine for centreless wheels too, I suppose this made life much easier. 
This all over.
 
I'm sure it's a windup fest, but for others, no harm, but looks shit and is pointless.
 
IMHO of course.
	  
	
	
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.   Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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