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So I've managed to get past all the 'modern' parts to the DPF...and stopped by a rusty nut! How the f*ck a nut goes rusty when its above an undertray and sitting on a 400c exhaust I have no idea. But Conor was right, the DPF>mid pipe nuts are rusty, and now one has rounded. 
Anyway, what are the options to remove it? Cant remove the whole exhaust as the midpipe goes over the steering rack/subrame. Can't drive anywhere for obvious reasons. Wtf do I do now? Someone help lol... 
Tom
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Smash a smaller socket on?
Grind the head off...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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its rusty because of the heat
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yeh the heat makes it rusty tom... why do you think an exhaust is ruined pretty must instantly?
also.... this is what happens if you dont use your nuts often...
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26-11-2014, 12:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-11-2014, 12:57 PM by Toms306.)
(26-11-2014, 12:40 PM)Ruan Wrote: Smash a smaller socket on?
Grind the head off...
No space for a grinder.
Looks like a smaller socket is the only option but I've never had any luck with that before.
(26-11-2014, 12:47 PM)welshpug Wrote: its rusty because of the heat
Useful. Why don't they make the bolts out of something non-rusty if that's the case.
The temp sensor and lower pressure pipe nut aren't rusty at all!
(26-11-2014, 12:54 PM)SRowell Wrote: yeh the heat makes it rusty tom... why do you think an exhaust is ruined pretty must instantly?
also.... this is what happens if you dont use your nuts often...
Theres loads of water in exhaust and they sit under the car getting covered in mud and salt, I just assumed that's what caused the rust!
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enough room to get the molegrips in there?
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That's why exhaust manifolds look like piles of rust unless they're stainless - but further down isn't so bad!
Yeah, or a GOOD pair of mole grips.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Smaller socket, or a rounded nut removal tool. Heating the nut will help massively and may allow you to remove it with molegrips if you get it glowing. Alternatively, chuck it back together and get a garage to change it for you
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Get a pic then we may be able to give better suggestions depending on the space and movement available.
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No space, no movement.  Phone battery died taking pics and using as torch so that charging atm.
Mole grips don't fit, even the smallest pair I have.
Bit too far in to put it back together now Jonny, rad fan, boost pipes, airbox, heatshield, pipes/sensors all removed. Don't have any rounded nut tools, everytime something like happens I mean to get a set! 
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I was recommended to get a tap and die set. Have yet to use.
Could check out YouTube videos to see if it would work for you.
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Nut splitter?
Or get it absolutely red hot and smash a smaller socket on quickly.
Or is it the front pipe you are replacing? Cut the pipe under the engine and remove it in 2 or 3 pieces.
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Don't have a nut splitter. Don't have a blowtorch. Don't have anyway to cut the pipe lol. I really don't have destructive tools!
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(26-11-2014, 01:59 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Don't have a nut splitter. Don't have a blowtorch. Don't have anyway to cut the pipe lol. I really don't have destructive tools! And this is why you'll never be a true 306 owner LOL
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26-11-2014, 02:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-11-2014, 02:04 PM by Poodle.)
Buy some decent sockets or put some on the christmas list, am yet to round anything with my 6-sided flank drive sets, despite some questionable application.
As to getting it off, heat and a smaller socket, as has already been suggested a few times. Failing that, you may be able to chisel it round or get a rotary tool with a grinding head in there. That's it short of putting it back together and taking it to a garage.
Tbh it sounds like you're not properly equipped dude, get some real tools.
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Its my fault, not the sockets tbh. I thought the impact gun might break the corrosion...instead it just rounded off.
It wouldn't move at all beforehand, even with my 2ft breaker bar.
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Round off sockets man.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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26-11-2014, 02:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-11-2014, 02:11 PM by Toms306.)
(26-11-2014, 02:03 PM)Poodle Wrote: Tbh it sounds like you're not properly equipped dude, get some real tools.
I have all the right tools for when stuff works... I just don't have dangerous power tools or anything for rust.
Looking at getting a set of bolt extractors next day delivered - just want to check 5/8ths is 16mm yeah?
(26-11-2014, 02:00 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: (26-11-2014, 01:59 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Don't have a nut splitter. Don't have a blowtorch. Don't have anyway to cut the pipe lol. I really don't have destructive tools! And this is why you'll never be a true 306 owner LOL
I'll take sensors and computer diags over rusty bolts any day!
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Did you use double or single hex sockets on it, you always want to use single hx on rusty stuff to give you the best chance. But anyway a good sharp chisel and split if down one side or sometimes with the shock of a chisel and hammer you can get them to come loose.
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Used 6pt sockets, Halfords Advanced as well so not cheap shite. I could try a chisel, hadn't thought of that!
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(26-11-2014, 02:10 PM)Toms306 Wrote: I'll take sensors and computer diags over rusty bolts any day!
And this is why you will never make a good mechanic!
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Well at least you used them, I usually take them of with a chisel, might take a bit of time sometimes but it works, also the bolt isnt welded at the back is it? It should just be pressed in, so if you damage the bolt when you get the nut off you can just hammer the bolt out and put a new one in.
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Some good advice already in here! Blow torch, smashing sockets over it, trying to crack it with impact, mole grips etc.
You could try drilling it also!
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Trade it in and buy a 306  wanna buy a 1.8 with a stuck oil filter? lol
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Well don't I feel daft. Left them soaking in QX40 while psnicking and eating pizza and they've both just come straight off. Oops haha... Onto the next crisis then!
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Ford = rust as standard.
peugeot exhaust manifold nuts are copper coated in my experience.
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26-11-2014, 04:34 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-11-2014, 04:35 PM by ConorTRG.)
(26-11-2014, 04:02 PM)welshpug Wrote: Ford = rust as standard.
peugeot exhaust manifold nuts are copper coated in my experience.
Most nuts on exhaust systems are just steel, worse ive seen are honda and vauxhall I chiseled of a shell of a nut was rotted away like a helicoil.
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Give Peugeot their due though, I've never had issues - sometimes the spring clamp ones are bastards, but usually solve that with a crowbar shoved down the back and a hammer
They should bloody be replaced every time anyway far as I'm concerned, they cost less than a fiver for a new set!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gri...ApXg8P8HAQ
cant rate these things highly enough..
they do 2 sizes..
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
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