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		Not totaly sure but it's maybe looking that.....it's an 01 306 2.0 hdi with 150000 on it, 2 1/2 years ago it got a new clutch, cable, arm, rod and bearing and new oil (from Pug) twice!, but it's never been right. It's hard and crunchy quite often when changing, if it's the forks inside it'll be new box time that right, or (if it's worth it and i don't know) a recon
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I dont really know about gearboxes but if you have replaced all that then I would have thought the only thing left to replace would be the box!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		HDi boxes are only worth £50 these days, might as well just stick another one on tbh.  Not really worth a ~£300 recon imo.
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I know but i could putting in a duffer the same, how would i know
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Buy one off a trustworthy member on here.   
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		It could be the cable or the clutch.
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		 (19-01-2014, 07:06 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  HDi boxes are only worth £50 these days, might as well just stick another one on tbh.  Not really worth a ~£300 recon imo. 
if you include £40 cash back with them!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		19-01-2014, 08:14 PM 
(This post was last modified: 19-01-2014, 08:15 PM by Toms306.)
	
	 
		They really aren't worth that much lol.  Not when I try to sell them anyway...maybe its just me.   
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		19-01-2014, 09:03 PM 
(This post was last modified: 19-01-2014, 09:04 PM by stu9.)
	
	 
		 (19-01-2014, 07:52 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote:  It could be the cable or the clutch. 
Could be but all are still quite new....infact the this is the 2nd cable, the first (from a factor) was duff so got an oem....it goes in the gears really not to bad, but still kind of crunches, that's sounds daft i know, it's one of these one's, you'd need to be driving to know what I mean
 
  (19-01-2014, 07:20 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  Buy one off a trustworthy member on here.  
And that'd be you no doubt      
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		have you removed the clutch damper from the pedal?? that can sometimes hold back the clutch pedal and the cable from adjusting properly, a couple of quick slipping your foot of the pedal can often fix problems with the cable, worth a try anyway!!!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		ok then, just a idea! yeh drain the oil out and see, refill with engine oil and see what happens, also check the rubber ball on the subframe for wear, maybe, you'll be lucky and its worn and its not pulling it in to gear fully hence the grinding, else like you say change the box, plus the clutch and the thrust bearing, its easy then!!
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		 (19-01-2014, 10:19 PM)Toms306 Wrote:   (19-01-2014, 09:03 PM)stu9 Wrote:  On the subject of your crunch, might be an idea to drain the 'box oil and see how many metal filings come out....if its a lot then its a 'box change... (19-01-2014, 07:20 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  Buy one off a trustworthy member on here.  And that'd be you no doubt
     (19-01-2014, 10:27 PM)mattgreene Wrote:  ok then, just a idea! yeh drain the oil out and see, refill with engine oil and see what happens, also check the rubber ball on the subframe for wear, maybe, you'll be lucky and its worn and its not pulling it in to gear fully hence the grinding, else like you say change the box, plus the clutch and the thrust bearing, its easy then!! 
Tom, Matt.....the oil was changed twice back then
 
There's a bit of movement with an engine or gearbox mount so that's probably not helping, will try and find out what one it is
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		yeh deffo, check top engine mount too, the drivers side top, if that drops then that can make the gear changes 'incomplete' due to not moving the selector far enough, for the price, its worth changing the bottom at least, but when i had 'crunchy' gearbox i also changed the top mount due to changing the engine position, thus changing the gear linkage positions.
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Dont put engine oil in it, nowhere near thick enough and it'll die sharpish lol. Definitely worth checking the engine mounts, but does sound like its the box from what you've said. I take it the biting point isn't on the floor or amything unusual like that?
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I only suggest engine oil in the box to flush it out because its thin, and it will show how much metal is floating around inside
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		 (20-01-2014, 01:07 PM)Poodle Wrote:  Dont put engine oil in it, nowhere near thick enough and it'll die sharpish lol. Definitely worth checking the engine mounts, but does sound like its the box from what you've said. I take it the biting point isn't on the floor or amything unusual like that? 
I wouldnt use it, it's been twice with the right stuf from Pug....didn't seem very thick to me whe putting it in
 
Biting point's about 1 1/2" from the floor, it's allways been like since the new clutch was put in....i was never happy with it, especially when the cable (even oem) never "clicked" to adjust
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Is there a lot of drag on the drive train? Clutch may not be fully disengaging.
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		No it's fine, that's what i don't get
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I've a feeling it's either not been fitted right (bit late now for asking him though) or a shit make (think it was LUK but not sure)....and there's probably about 50,000odd miles to go (if i've got it that long)
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		I wonder if the clutch plate was put in the wrong way round?
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		22-01-2014, 02:12 AM 
(This post was last modified: 22-01-2014, 02:12 AM by stu9.)
	
	 
		Surely fkn no.....the guy's a competent mechanic that did it, the thing is (as i said above) there's no point in asking him to take it out to check as he'd say after 10,000ish miles he doesn't know how i've been driving
 Without doing that, is there any to tell if that was the case
 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Of the clutch plate was put in wrong you wouldnt get gears at all lol, unless u started the car in neutral    
Itl be worn linkages or worn selector in the box, engine mounts wont have a major effect as the linkages will move with the engine
	
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		You cant really fit the plate the wrong way round without some brute force which is noticeable....as I found out when doing the one on Rowells estate lol, the clutch cover doesn't sit flat so you cant bolt it on easily....I realised what I'd done at that point, cant imagine anyone would just carry on!
 As for the engine mounts, remember that the gear linkage ball is mounted on the subframe, which wont move with the engine (hopefully lol!) so will have an effect.
 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		 (22-01-2014, 04:54 PM)Toms306 Wrote:  You cant really fit the plate the wrong way round without some brute force which is noticeable....as I found out when doing the one on Rowells estate lol, the clutch cover doesn't sit flat so you cant bolt it on easily....I realised what I'd done at that point, cant imagine anyone would just carry on! 
Can you remember what make clutch you fitted?
 
I fitted the plate on my LUK the wrong way I didn't notice and I only found out when I went to drive the car. I couldn't refit it till the next day and I had to move the car. The next day it would just about go into gear.
	 
		
	 
	
	
	
		
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		Ah I remember your thread about that now.  I believe the one we fitted was a LUK as well, which seem's odd!
	 
		
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