Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		01-09-2012, 06:47 PM 
(This post was last modified: 01-09-2012, 06:48 PM by Ricky.)
	
	 
	
		Took the air con compressor off, removed all bolts, but the sump won't budge, so I'm guessing the sealant is holding it on pretty well. Would gentle heating with a blowtorch help shift it? 
Also, did some work on the gasket mating face, do you think its pretty much ready for the new gasket?
  
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,748 
	Threads: 41 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 12
Location: Midlands
 Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		there should be no shit on either face!, get sandpaper on the block, and get a straight edge on the head. Screwdriver between the sump and block to get it off!!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Been using emery paper all day, I know there's more to do but I think I'm nearly there!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,748 
	Threads: 41 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 12
Location: Midlands
 Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		While heads off, might aswell take the opportunity to bolt on a bigger blower   
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (01-09-2012, 07:29 PM)Dave Wrote:  While heads off, might aswell take the opportunity to bolt on a bigger blower   
The whole reason I'm doing this    Putting my HDI rods in as well.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,748 
	Threads: 41 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 12
Location: Midlands
 Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Oh brilliant, what turbo?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Just the norm, td04. Only because I need a new turbo and I can't be bothered to cook another standard One!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 2,612 
	Threads: 124 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 26
Location: Some dimension
 Car Model/Spec: Megane DCiR
 Thanks: 2 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		As dave said i used a putty knife to prize sump off as was stuck with silicone,
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Ok cool will have a look after work tomorrow, done enough today!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Top of the block looks good, just watch there is no crap between the piston and cylinder
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		I think I managed to get some crap in cylinders 2 and 3, so need to try and clear them before removing the pistons.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		01-09-2012, 09:02 PM 
(This post was last modified: 01-09-2012, 09:02 PM by Daniel306.)
	
	 
	
		If you are removing the pistons dont worry about it, just clean it when there out. is there much of a polish on the cylinder walls?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (01-09-2012, 09:02 PM)Daniel306 Wrote:  If you are removing the pistons dont worry about it, just clean it when there out. is there much of a polish on the cylinder walls? 
Erm, they are quite shiny..
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Put a honing tool in and cross hatch them
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (01-09-2012, 10:00 PM)Daniel306 Wrote:  Put a honing tool in and cross hatch them 
O i see what you mean, they are pretty crossed hatched, lots of criss cross lines everywhere.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		There there to allow oil in, if its polished the rings will wipe all the oil off causing it to wear out quicker
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Sump still wont budge     Tried tapping a screwdriver between the sump and block, but only have a rubber mallet to hand so it's a waste of time I think   .. Can't believe how well attached it is with the sealant, the only bolts holding it on are all the allen headed ones right?
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		03-09-2012, 06:54 PM 
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2012, 09:12 PM by Daniel306.)
	
	 
	
		Should only be the allen bolts round it but have a look round it, the A/C pump holds it on too, try a thin knife like one of the snap off stanley's and cut the sealant.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 5,205 
	Threads: 91 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
 Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
 Thanks: 2 
	Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Auxiliary bracket has to be off too buddy, it catches the edge of the sump... Sucks I know...
	 
	
	
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.   Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
  
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		03-09-2012, 09:26 PM 
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2012, 10:05 PM by Ricky.)
	
	 
	
		Yeah the AC pump is off. I didn't see no bracket, will have a better look tomorrow. EDIT: done some research, do I have to take off the whole aux setup to get it off then? ie. the big spring by the pas pump etc?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Had a quick look this morning, couldn't see anything in the way, am I looking in the right place..? 
 
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 5,205 
	Threads: 91 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
 Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
 Thanks: 2 
	Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Yeah, that whole aux bracket had to come off I'm 99% sure... From when I dropped mine I remember shouting and swearing and then realising that had to come off...
	 
	
	
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.   Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
  
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		bugger, for what I thought would be a simple job has turned into a real pain!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 5,205 
	Threads: 91 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
 Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
 Thanks: 2 
	Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Reet arsewipe init, are you converting to steel sump? 
 
If you are you've got a whole load of fun to come!
	 
	
	
 (16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote:  Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.   Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
  
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (04-09-2012, 03:38 PM)Ruan Wrote:  Reet arsewipe init, are you converting to steel sump? 
 
If you are you've got a whole load of fun to come! 
Just removing it so I can get the rods out...
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,497 
	Threads: 177 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 3
Location: Highlands, Scotland
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Whats the advantage of a steel sump, just not so low?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 1,487 
	Threads: 119 
	Joined: Apr 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 5
Location: Buckingham
 Car Model/Spec: MG ZS180
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Turns out nothing needed to be moved, tapped the sump with a proper hammer and is just dropped off easy. I think maybe the ones that get caught are on non ac models?  O well, rods out now and pistons now connected to hdi rods..taking them off to get balanced tomorrow!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	 
 |