13-05-2016, 07:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 13-05-2016, 07:34 PM by insomaniac45.)
Your initial idea would work, if the case was not made of aluminium 
ok, so it is either not home correctly, or it is the wrong bearing.
For example, if i buy an off the shelf bearing for the crank on my TZR 125, i will not be ale to put the cir clip on, because it is 1mm deeper than what yamaha supply......
could this be the same for your diff bearing?
One should be an interference fit, the other close sliding, meaning if it is even 0.001" cocked, it locks. I would try, tapping it all round the outer race with an alloy drift and a nice copper/hide mallet. you may find it will release the bearing from being cocked, and allow it to be driven home.
either that, or it could meanstripping the box to find out what the feck is going on..... Im no pug expert, but bearings and boxes were my bread and butter.
edit------
closer look at the bottom bearing, it looks as though the shaft is on the piss. forcing the inner race to be on the piss,
in the pic, you can see @ 8 o'clock position, the top edge of the rollers, and @ 2 o'clock position, you can clearly see the rollers are no where near the edge. this alone says to me the bearing is on the piss.
Try giving it a good whack at the 2 o'clock position (in retrospect of the picture) by good whack, i do not mean with a lump hammer and a massive wind up...... i mean as if you were banging a nail in a piece of wood kind of whack...
do not use steel drifts, as these can damage the bearing and or splinter particles into the rollers.
ok, so it is either not home correctly, or it is the wrong bearing.
For example, if i buy an off the shelf bearing for the crank on my TZR 125, i will not be ale to put the cir clip on, because it is 1mm deeper than what yamaha supply......
could this be the same for your diff bearing?
One should be an interference fit, the other close sliding, meaning if it is even 0.001" cocked, it locks. I would try, tapping it all round the outer race with an alloy drift and a nice copper/hide mallet. you may find it will release the bearing from being cocked, and allow it to be driven home.
either that, or it could meanstripping the box to find out what the feck is going on..... Im no pug expert, but bearings and boxes were my bread and butter.
edit------
closer look at the bottom bearing, it looks as though the shaft is on the piss. forcing the inner race to be on the piss,
in the pic, you can see @ 8 o'clock position, the top edge of the rollers, and @ 2 o'clock position, you can clearly see the rollers are no where near the edge. this alone says to me the bearing is on the piss.
Try giving it a good whack at the 2 o'clock position (in retrospect of the picture) by good whack, i do not mean with a lump hammer and a massive wind up...... i mean as if you were banging a nail in a piece of wood kind of whack...
do not use steel drifts, as these can damage the bearing and or splinter particles into the rollers.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!