OK wtf is going on here??
Basically the speedo drive housing wouldn't go in due to a bearing in the way.
I'm sure this happened on a hdi I had but can't remember what happened to it now.
Anyway I thought slowly tightening the housing onto the diff might push the bearing back in. Which seemed to be going well until the top bolt suddenly became very easy to turn as it'd ripped several threads out of the diff. Took the rest of the bolts out and the bearing has gone in at the bottom but not the top. Tried tapping it with a hammer but it seems to be solid in there.
I thought it seemed odd the speedo drive was covered in bathroom sealant when I removed it before, so maybe that bearing has been stuck like that a while which would explain the lack of gear oil.
Pics dont really show the issue but it's the outer most bearing.
Is there any way of fixing this tomorrow for free or is it a replacement gearbox job?
Your initial idea would work, if the case was not made of aluminium
ok, so it is either not home correctly, or it is the wrong bearing.
For example, if i buy an off the shelf bearing for the crank on my TZR 125, i will not be ale to put the cir clip on, because it is 1mm deeper than what yamaha supply......
could this be the same for your diff bearing?
One should be an interference fit, the other close sliding, meaning if it is even 0.001" cocked, it locks. I would try, tapping it all round the outer race with an alloy drift and a nice copper/hide mallet. you may find it will release the bearing from being cocked, and allow it to be driven home.
either that, or it could meanstripping the box to find out what the feck is going on..... Im no pug expert, but bearings and boxes were my bread and butter.
edit------
closer look at the bottom bearing, it looks as though the shaft is on the piss. forcing the inner race to be on the piss,
in the pic, you can see @ 8 o'clock position, the top edge of the rollers, and @ 2 o'clock position, you can clearly see the rollers are no where near the edge. this alone says to me the bearing is on the piss.
Try giving it a good whack at the 2 o'clock position (in retrospect of the picture) by good whack, i do not mean with a lump hammer and a massive wind up...... i mean as if you were banging a nail in a piece of wood kind of whack...
do not use steel drifts, as these can damage the bearing and or splinter particles into the rollers.
You're missing a big washer that goes on the diff bearings from memory
Only 6 boxes had this
Yeah its wonky you're right, but hitting it at the high point (2 o clock) doesn't do anything at all...even with a lump hammer and blunt chisel.
No idea about the washer Paul!
how is the outer race sitting in the case? if that is sitting straight, then it is the shaft that is on the piss.
The outer race is sitting wonky, the inner bit is straight or at least straighter.
If I can get onto service box later I'll get the diagram up
Sounds like some one has done up the diff casing with the bearing wonky. Don't go hitting any more, you may have to undo the diff housing to get it square again
jeeze,,,,,,,, not good fella. not good at all
as paul said, it will be better to work with this out of the box now, as you wont know if it being cocked for so long, has damaged the bearing seat.
And the bearing.
Tom if it's f*cked I've got a 306 diff here with your name on it, yours for postage. The diff bearings are good
Thanks for the offer but I've had more than enough of it now tbh and it needs to be on the floor and looking complete asap.
Think I'll just mash the speedo drive on as tight as possible with only 2 bolts and just put one litre of box oil in. Leave it for someone else to sort.
That's not the attitude!
Seriously you've been doing a lot more with yourself now you've this 6,from what i can tell any way. Keep it up.
Just have a day away from it and cool down
leave it man for a bit. if it becomes an issue ive got a derv bos here that will fit for now if you cant get anything else
I don't want to derail the thread but you are right, I have been doing more and getting out more lately, but really I have certain forum members on here to thank for that, as well as the change of living arrangements, rather than the GTi6!
If anything, the '6 has just started damaging that progress, I still can't cope with breakdowns (as it proved last Friday) and tbh I've tried to stay positive with it but I really don't want to drive it again. I also know that I'm well out of pocket with it, and that all the money and time I'm putting into it is just adding more to the losses. Plus, I shouldn't really be doing this sort of thing in the flats car park, it's caused so much stress being up on stands and across 2 spaces for 3 days I honestly wish I'd just left the clutch and sold it last weekend in hindsight. Given that, it's difficult to find any motivation with it lol!
ok, so its not the right way.
but if you get some stud bar, use that to replace the stripped bolt. I know the thread in the housing has gone, but it only looks like the first few. The stud bar will go all the way in, and be a much better anchor.
just make sure you cut it long enough
plenty of sealant, leave it to set, then put some box oil in there. it is 100% a bodge, but if it works, and gets the car back on the road, well it will be 1 less problem to sort out. Just let the new owner know
dont need to do anything with all thread, take a punch and knock the bearing straight in the bore, refit the speedo housing, if it doesn't go all the way in tap it with a copper mallet.
using the bolts will as you found out just knacker the threads.
as for the stripped thread, its helicoil time, which is gearbox off
I didn't think of trying a punch!
Will try that first then.
Punch hasn't worked, it's well wedged in there, no way it's moving either way with the diff in
I'm using a cast lump hammer!
Can't find any sealant either so this'll be good lol