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		If you change the nozzles you will cock up the pop pressures a bit, normally it wont make much odds if you swap nozzles like for like, but any manufacturing changes, and it will be totally wrong...so i wouldnt advice swapping out nozzles for different bodies unless you have to...unless you have a pop tester.. 
Nice job with the repair by Ripp there    Saving another one   
	 
	
	
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		26-06-2012, 11:03 PM 
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		 (26-06-2012, 10:28 PM)strictly_derv Wrote:   (26-06-2012, 09:36 PM)Jenkosowls Wrote:  left 5 minutes between runs even longer on some when people kept interupting! each run ii changed something. i dunno will see what it pulls next time  
That was probably making it an inter-warmer with it being sat with no air flow and a hot engine all the heat just rises into the 'intercooler'. So it was probably due to heat soak. 
To be fair this good be the problem the last time I went we had the bonnet open and sprayed the cooler but with interrupting people it was over looked!
  
 (26-06-2012, 10:51 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote:  If you change the nozzles you will cock up the pop pressures a bit, normally it wont make much odds if you swap nozzles like for like, but any manufacturing changes, and it will be totally wrong...so i wouldnt advice swapping out nozzles for different bodies unless you have to...unless you have a pop tester.. 
 
Nice job with the repair by Ripp there   Saving another one   
Nozzles as in ones mounted in the head that are a pain to take out? Or something else I'm puzzled :-s
	  
	
	
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		27-06-2012, 08:34 PM 
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		well went to put a new oil return gasket on as i knew i had a slight leak from there managed to sort it cleaned all up went for a drive and came back to find this. when i received this 2nd turbo it had play from side to side to which i assumed it was just with no oil in it i wouldnt say it was drastic but slightly more than normal. 
 
seems to be a like where hotside meets catridge im assuming its the oil seal thats probs gone the oil there is fresh and dripping slightly. im also getting whiteish smoke from the exhaust when pulling up after a drive am i right in assuming the oil seals have probs gone?
	  
	
	
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		well iv come to the conclusion this turbo is definetly dieing. managed to replace my cable tied actuator with a solid threaded bar attached to the actuator mounting point managed to gain 2 more psi so it now will boost straight to 30psi but i get a howling sound now past 20psi. i think one inlet compressor wheel is starting to trim itself on the casing. 
 
But i have now got a 2nd non screwed t25 this is the 3rd one in total iv had now and so one of the others il get rebuilt with stronger internals and 360 bearing! iv split one already going to soak it in petrol clean it up good and proper then rebuilt.
	 
	
	
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		Well new turbo is on bought it off a guy who had a very nice s1 106 rallye ready for track! he used to build turbo charger kits for mx5 and works for vosa had a rather nice garage filled lots and lots of nice snap on and bluepoint tools so rest assured i think this turbo should serve me i bit longer than the old one! 
so pics as ever 
As suspected oil seal has gone!
  
 
Then had a closer looked and as suspected the turbo was deciding to eat away at itself
  
 
looks only ever so slightly it started to do so there is allot more play sided to side than there was when i first put it on but also in and out play too. i was wanting to have this one rebuilt with a 360 bearing and some carbon seals but with the compressor being slighlty trimmed i dont know if il be able to get away with it or not.
	  
	
	
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		Why not spend the rebuild fund on buying something a bit newer and more modern than a T25? The T25 is very old tech now and there's much more efficient turbos out there, and if you get a suitable turbo off a low-mileage car there's no reason why it should need a rebuild.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Gutted, hasn't been on long has it?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		01-07-2012, 04:49 PM 
(This post was last modified: 01-07-2012, 04:59 PM by Jenkosowls.)
	
	 
	
		 (01-07-2012, 04:23 PM)Poodle Wrote:  Why not spend the rebuild fund on buying something a bit newer and more modern than a T25? The T25 is very old tech now and there's much more efficient turbos out there, and if you get a suitable turbo off a low-mileage car there's no reason why it should need a rebuild. 
the only reason i went T25 was simply down to evrything was cheap i bought padges old T25 setup for £20 this was screwed from the start as i knew and all i had to do was source a new one and place the catridge in then bolt up. bought the 2nd turbo for £35 new oil line was £18 so all in all its cost less than £80 to sort out. the other advantage with the T25 is everything lines up nicely with the fmic pipes of the xantia so now modifications needed there
 
To do it again id have to source a seperate manifold research into a specific turbo away from the norm and more than likely thatl cost over £80 plus cost to have it welded up or plated.
 
in essence was just a nice cheap option to go for at the time. once iv got a stronger bearing kit il more than likely look at having the turbo into a hybrid for a quicker spool time.
  
 (01-07-2012, 04:26 PM)zx_volcane Wrote:  Gutted, hasn't been on long has it? 
Think around 3 weeks! at the other side of 25psi which considering its not recomended to go over 15psi on these doesnt suprise me. not only that when you compare the new turbo to the old one the old one had more shaft play than i thought this one should see me last a bit longer
	  
	
	
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		Ah keep it simple, fair play.   
At least once it's rebuilt you'll know you're not going to blow it lol.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		 (02-07-2012, 03:30 PM)Poodle Wrote:  Ah keep it simple, fair play.   
Yeah, he does the same with the car too!
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Screw the hybrid, I've just found a nice S474 for sale....
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Seems a bit big!
	 
	
	
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		Pffft yeah I know what your "fineeee" is like message me details..... Looking at info now but big cummins engines seem to go for these not little xuds!
	 
	
	
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		Random question, your braided oil line, what length did you go for?
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		think about 7-8inches roughly as mine just bolted to original oil feed
	 
	
	
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		14-07-2012, 03:39 PM 
(This post was last modified: 14-07-2012, 03:41 PM by Jenkosowls.)
	
	 
	
		Minor up dates 
Fitted a gti6 master cylinder now got a much firmer pedal
  
New one
  
Old one
  
Old vs new
  
Also got a gti6 boot trim for free!
  
And some gmax shocks from a gti6 with 35mm springs but the 40s iv got stored will be going on instead
  
 
 
Then went to try a new camera out 
Also purchased some new wheels! bargain price 1 inch to big for me but should look better after a drop!
  
 
 
 
Then the cooler you can barely see it
  
	 
	
	
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		Wheels looking good pal glad they've gone to a good home lol look spot on once it's dropped    did the gti6 master cylinder make fir better breaking then because my pedal is super soft !!
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		so take one of these no waiting list for me ner ner! 
 
then paint it
  
Then fit it
  
 
then take it for a spin and smile when you feel the difference! thi is the 2nd lot of braces iv had from phillip (one set for the 207 first ever in the uk!) and to no suprise top quaility work is shown through the workmanship and dramatic differences this makes up front feels much safer now
	  
	
	
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		Shows you just how much bigger the '6 sump is!
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Really need one of those lower braces in my life !
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		top marks fella for you saving that lovely car !
	 
	
	
 
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		Cheers guys tiniest of update well fail actually really. Starting to get clutch slip when on boost in 4th and 5th past 3.5k mainly when cars had bit of a run and is warned up think il just be going down the standard Valeo route for a new one
	 
	
	
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		It's having to lug your arse up hills that's done it.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Get an uprated plate from CG, I had a standard plate with a better friction material, would take a lot more heat over standard and was less than £100
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		02-08-2012, 07:37 PM 
(This post was last modified: 02-08-2012, 07:38 PM by Jenkosowls.)
	
	 
	
		 (02-08-2012, 06:05 PM)Rippthrough Wrote:  It's having to lug your arse up hills that's done it. 
cheeky git!
  
 (02-08-2012, 06:33 PM)Birk Wrote:  Get an uprated plate from CG, I had a standard plate with a better friction material, would take a lot more heat over standard and was less than £100 
have been looking around heard mixed reviews about the cg stuff but i suppose an uprated plate maybe a possibility i dont really want to go down the paddle route just yet i like a nice smooth bite
	  
	
	
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		I've still got the one I got from CG, it did the job on my low boost gti6, it's done about 2k, but doubt you would want it.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
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		Well I could possibly be interested! I assume it would fit?
	 
	
	
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		Gti6 and dturbo clutch's are the same, so it will fit. 
 
Its just the friction plate, you will just need to get a new cover, but they are easy enough to get hold of.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	 
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