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The issue is the loading ending up being on the bolts rather than the hub
That being said, I'm going to go all out and say its unlikely your wheel will fall off if you don't use hubcentrics
So either crack on, or stop being a tight arse if you're concerned about safety
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Hubcentrics would be wise on any form of spacer IMO. The 'lip' on the hub currently helps to centre the wheel but also takes the most of the load. I know this always encourages argument from some parties, arguing that the friction between hub face / spacer / wheel takes the load when the wheel bolts are tightened, but I don't subscribe to that. For starters on something like a Cyclone wheel the female coupling 'ring' if you will is incomplete; with only material at the bolt-holes. If that makes sense (it does in my head!)
Hubcentric or nuthin' IMO.
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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Fair enough. Its just a set of hubcentrics is £65. Plus bolts comes to £95.
Thats a lot for alloys that I got for nothing!!
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What about plastic spigot rings, they can't take any load surely? So hubcentrics being needed....?
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The spigot rings sit on top of the shoulder so will still transfer the weight onto it. Theyre just taking up the few mm gap.
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As above basically, if you have to use a spigot ring it will be to take up slack and be made of rigid plastic - not a maleable rubbery material. Plus, it should be a nice snug fit, so the plastic has nowhere to go but take up any load from hub / road wheel.
The spacers on my OZ wheels were £130 shipped from Italy brand new and were direct fitment, so £65 sounds about the going rate.
Shop around for wheel bolts and you may get a bargain. Just don't take a chance on something like spacers if you can avoid it.
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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I've used 10mm spacers non hubcentric before
Never had a issue
20mm however I used hubcentric
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Team Doesn't own a 306
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