https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/ Wed, 06 May 2026 16:12:23 +0000 MyBB https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37472 Fri, 17 Jan 2020 12:41:44 +0000 philaltimas@gmail.com]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37472 sorry if this is the wrong place to add this , newbie]]> sorry if this is the wrong place to add this , newbie]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37306 Thu, 21 Mar 2019 18:59:11 +0000 Bsim91284]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37306 Thanks]]> Thanks]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37243 Fri, 08 Feb 2019 22:31:25 +0000 amj32]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37243
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk]]>
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37224 Sat, 26 Jan 2019 23:28:53 +0000 wainwrightj]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37224
Doing a job like this yourself is a pain in the a*s but it's one of the more rewarding things you can do to your car! You won't realize this at the start but as you get closer to completion the excitement starts building it all starts becoming worth it. Once you've finished the job look back at all the things you've learnt and think about all the things you can now do with the knowledge you've gained.

• Before you start anything you want to get intimate with a couple of guides, read your chosen guides over and over until you are comfortable with the process in your head
  • Don't take the guides as fact, after all they are only a guide and sometimes the information provided might not line up with your car (For example a guide I was following quotes 10 gearbox bolts and we spent at least 10 minutes looking for our lost bolt until we realized there's only 9 and the guide skips number 8 when counting to ten 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,10)
    
  • Quoted bolt sizes could also be wrong for example the gearbox bolts were quoted as 17mm whereas on my car they were 16mm's
    

• So now you've read a couple of guides make sure you're prepared for the job, collect all the parts you'll need, order everything a couple weeks in advance so when you ultimately forget something you still have time to get it ordered.
  • Write a list of all the parts and tick them off as you get them ordered
    
  • Acquire any tools you'll need for the job, namely hub sockets, torque wrenches things you don;t just have ying around if you;ve never done a job like this before
    
  • Google will only get you so far sometimes it's better to double check sizes of bolts/ nuts on the car especially if you're buying a hub nut socket that you probably won't use again (I spent £10 on a 36mm socket that was too big for the hub nut, went and bought a £15 35mm socket and even that is slightly too big but does the job better than the 36mm)
    

• Give yourself way more time than necessary!!
  • I can't stress how important this part is, I believe the book figure for a clutch on my car was around 7 hours so as we've never done a clutch we set a whole weekend free thinking that would be plenty of time! It wasn't it's currently Saturday now and I have only finished this job today. (Work a 9-5 so only had evenings in the week two of which my mate helped be getting the box back on)
    
  • Things will go wrong, it isn't a case of if they go wrong it's a case of when. Be ready for this and don't let your frustrations get the better of you, stay calm and really think about how to solve the problem instead of getting angry at a seized intermediate bearing..
    

• Don't be afraid to ask people for help whether it's on the forum or on facebook
  • You'll always get that bell*nd that has nothing better to do than to mock you, or bluntly uselessly answer the question because it makes them feel better about themselves but you just have to ignore these people, they've all been in your situation at some point they weren't changing clutches as a fetus they asked questions at some point that's how people learn.
    

• Always assume you've done something wrong
  • If you get caught looking at a problem thinking to yourself "Why isn't this f***ing thing working we've done nothing wrong" 11 times out of 10 you've done something wrong, it's the hardest thing to admit when you;re in that sort of situation but believe me you'll save more time by just starting over than staring at something telling yourself you've done it right
    

• The biggest take away from working on cars yourself is the knowledge you gain (plus the money you save)
  • During the job you forget this part, you look at everything from a different perspective, you start with good intentions and then everything starts going down hill, you run into a couple of problems and everything starts to overwhelm you and it feels s**t, don't let it get the better of you that's when you start taking short cuts making bad decisions and generally making yourself more work in the future.
    

That's an awful lot of writing hopefully not too boring and hopefully you've taken something away from this]]>
Doing a job like this yourself is a pain in the a*s but it's one of the more rewarding things you can do to your car! You won't realize this at the start but as you get closer to completion the excitement starts building it all starts becoming worth it. Once you've finished the job look back at all the things you've learnt and think about all the things you can now do with the knowledge you've gained.

• Before you start anything you want to get intimate with a couple of guides, read your chosen guides over and over until you are comfortable with the process in your head
  • Don't take the guides as fact, after all they are only a guide and sometimes the information provided might not line up with your car (For example a guide I was following quotes 10 gearbox bolts and we spent at least 10 minutes looking for our lost bolt until we realized there's only 9 and the guide skips number 8 when counting to ten 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,10)
    
  • Quoted bolt sizes could also be wrong for example the gearbox bolts were quoted as 17mm whereas on my car they were 16mm's
    

• So now you've read a couple of guides make sure you're prepared for the job, collect all the parts you'll need, order everything a couple weeks in advance so when you ultimately forget something you still have time to get it ordered.
  • Write a list of all the parts and tick them off as you get them ordered
    
  • Acquire any tools you'll need for the job, namely hub sockets, torque wrenches things you don;t just have ying around if you;ve never done a job like this before
    
  • Google will only get you so far sometimes it's better to double check sizes of bolts/ nuts on the car especially if you're buying a hub nut socket that you probably won't use again (I spent £10 on a 36mm socket that was too big for the hub nut, went and bought a £15 35mm socket and even that is slightly too big but does the job better than the 36mm)
    

• Give yourself way more time than necessary!!
  • I can't stress how important this part is, I believe the book figure for a clutch on my car was around 7 hours so as we've never done a clutch we set a whole weekend free thinking that would be plenty of time! It wasn't it's currently Saturday now and I have only finished this job today. (Work a 9-5 so only had evenings in the week two of which my mate helped be getting the box back on)
    
  • Things will go wrong, it isn't a case of if they go wrong it's a case of when. Be ready for this and don't let your frustrations get the better of you, stay calm and really think about how to solve the problem instead of getting angry at a seized intermediate bearing..
    

• Don't be afraid to ask people for help whether it's on the forum or on facebook
  • You'll always get that bell*nd that has nothing better to do than to mock you, or bluntly uselessly answer the question because it makes them feel better about themselves but you just have to ignore these people, they've all been in your situation at some point they weren't changing clutches as a fetus they asked questions at some point that's how people learn.
    

• Always assume you've done something wrong
  • If you get caught looking at a problem thinking to yourself "Why isn't this f***ing thing working we've done nothing wrong" 11 times out of 10 you've done something wrong, it's the hardest thing to admit when you;re in that sort of situation but believe me you'll save more time by just starting over than staring at something telling yourself you've done it right
    

• The biggest take away from working on cars yourself is the knowledge you gain (plus the money you save)
  • During the job you forget this part, you look at everything from a different perspective, you start with good intentions and then everything starts going down hill, you run into a couple of problems and everything starts to overwhelm you and it feels s**t, don't let it get the better of you that's when you start taking short cuts making bad decisions and generally making yourself more work in the future.
    

That's an awful lot of writing hopefully not too boring and hopefully you've taken something away from this]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36747 Sat, 14 Apr 2018 18:50:53 +0100 ghandi0007]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36747 Been a while but I was wondering if anyone had a guide on how to fix a 3 door front seat that doesn’t lift up any more
Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]> Been a while but I was wondering if anyone had a guide on how to fix a 3 door front seat that doesn’t lift up any more
Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36740 Thu, 12 Apr 2018 14:27:47 +0100 Magenta Sunset]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36740
http://www.amtgarageforum.nl/public/topi...iemens.pdf]]>
http://www.amtgarageforum.nl/public/topi...iemens.pdf]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36497 Fri, 08 Dec 2017 15:20:55 +0000 cully]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36497

  20150829_135519.jpg (Size: 2.86 MB / Downloads: 196)

locate oil leak strip down to expose damaged seal 


  20150829_141256.jpg (Size: 3.53 MB / Downloads: 201)

drill small hole in seal casing maybe 2 at 180degs


  20150829_141728.jpg (Size: 4.22 MB / Downloads: 208)

insert screw and slowly screw into the seal which should start to press the seal out of the housing if this dont work add a second screw at 180 degrees and use both to press seal out


  20150829_141852.jpg (Size: 3.79 MB / Downloads: 208)


  20150829_141908.jpg (Size: 2.87 MB / Downloads: 192)


  20150829_141927.jpg (Size: 2.76 MB / Downloads: 211)

refit new seal buy tapping into position
check all faces and reasemble


  20150829_160015.jpg (Size: 4.28 MB / Downloads: 197) ]]>

  20150829_135519.jpg (Size: 2.86 MB / Downloads: 196)

locate oil leak strip down to expose damaged seal 


  20150829_141256.jpg (Size: 3.53 MB / Downloads: 201)

drill small hole in seal casing maybe 2 at 180degs


  20150829_141728.jpg (Size: 4.22 MB / Downloads: 208)

insert screw and slowly screw into the seal which should start to press the seal out of the housing if this dont work add a second screw at 180 degrees and use both to press seal out


  20150829_141852.jpg (Size: 3.79 MB / Downloads: 208)


  20150829_141908.jpg (Size: 2.87 MB / Downloads: 192)


  20150829_141927.jpg (Size: 2.76 MB / Downloads: 211)

refit new seal buy tapping into position
check all faces and reasemble


  20150829_160015.jpg (Size: 4.28 MB / Downloads: 197) ]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36183 Tue, 01 Aug 2017 20:19:59 +0100 Mattcheese31]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36183
i only buy 5 door phase 1 306's as i have children, i have had 4 and none have ever had a rear courtesy light, i have been told that many models do have a light, if you were able to get a phase one light you could just cut a hole and plug it in, the phase 2/3 light that i fitted however has a different plug and requires re-wiring, anyway on with it.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

1: a courtesy light and outer trim (doh).

2. the plug it came with, leaving 6" of wire for splicing.

3. electrical tape.

4. a sharp blade, stanley, craft knife etc . . .

5. a pokey impliment, flat blade screwdriver is ideal.



we shall begin . . . . . .

1. First things first i blew a fuse doing this so please disconnect your battery  

2. the centre of the cutaway for the light is almost exactly 5" in from the rear headlining trim, bang centre, you can find the centre line by looking at the boot lid inside, there are some little dimples along the metal to work off, so poke yourself a hole with your screwdriver in the middle see pic.


  20597417_10213461866806208_7489324810947992253_n.jpg (Size: 39.77 KB / Downloads: 223)


  20431754_10213462076731456_1051401808650958524_n.jpg (Size: 47.45 KB / Downloads: 219)

3. time to get working with your blade, just cut it out bit by bit starting in the middle, not quite all the way to the edges of the metal cutaway, leave it overhanging a bit, the light will squeese in and the outer trim make it all look neat and tidy,




  20431651_10213461866606203_2837732957838007838_n.jpg (Size: 46.11 KB / Downloads: 221)


4. at this point you may struggle to pull the wiring out the recess as it may be taped up and looped back through a hole, i had to open the boot, pull the rubber weather seal off, get hold of the plastic trim you can now see and give it a tug all the way along, it will slide out about 1 inch, now it's out use your flat blade screwdriver to ping the metal clips off the trim, just get it underneath and a little twist of the wrist will set it free, do this all the way along, don't worry they will clip back fine, you can now pull the headlining down a little from the back and discover your light wiring!!   do the reverse to put things back as they were.






  20526005_10213462077131466_5451541312589992084_n.jpg (Size: 50.88 KB / Downloads: 217)


  20476184_10213462077091465_7957810395035009602_n.jpg (Size: 46.37 KB / Downloads: 216)


5. ok . . . if it's the phase 2/3 light you're fitting like i did you will need to rewire it so time to strip off! . . . the outer wiring plastic i mean of course, take care, i always strip wire with a stanley, you may prefer a proper stripper whatever, just don't slice your fingers, you should be left with something like this . .



  20597298_10213461866406198_5873494161621223733_n.jpg (Size: 95.72 KB / Downloads: 209)


6. time to wire this sucker up, i did the hard work here and it took me far longer than it should have to figure out what went where no matter the wiring is as follows:
 
Colour: RED to RED . . . .  GREEN to GREEN . . . . . BLUE to LIGHT BROWN . . . . . WHITE to CREAM . . . . . (see pic to clarify)

PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO WRAP ALL WIRES PROPERLY WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE AFTER TWISTING TOGETHER!


  20431612_10213461866166192_7494664523024825074_n.jpg (Size: 54.52 KB / Downloads: 213)


7. simply slip the light trim into your freshly cut out headlining hole, it only fits one way, the two little plastic tabs should be folded up so the trim will fit in, they will then push out holding the trim in place when you push your light up in place, unless i've missed anything that should be job done, reconnect your battery and revel in your new rear interior courtesy light which should come on with the doors or on demand as you wish. tadaa . . 




  20597063_10213461866206193_8481496561635509353_n.jpg (Size: 44.58 KB / Downloads: 214)



hope this was of use to you all, any questions please ask, as i was writing i realised i should have taken more pics, i still can if needed . .


Cheers, Matt . . . ]]>
i only buy 5 door phase 1 306's as i have children, i have had 4 and none have ever had a rear courtesy light, i have been told that many models do have a light, if you were able to get a phase one light you could just cut a hole and plug it in, the phase 2/3 light that i fitted however has a different plug and requires re-wiring, anyway on with it.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

1: a courtesy light and outer trim (doh).

2. the plug it came with, leaving 6" of wire for splicing.

3. electrical tape.

4. a sharp blade, stanley, craft knife etc . . .

5. a pokey impliment, flat blade screwdriver is ideal.



we shall begin . . . . . .

1. First things first i blew a fuse doing this so please disconnect your battery  

2. the centre of the cutaway for the light is almost exactly 5" in from the rear headlining trim, bang centre, you can find the centre line by looking at the boot lid inside, there are some little dimples along the metal to work off, so poke yourself a hole with your screwdriver in the middle see pic.


  20597417_10213461866806208_7489324810947992253_n.jpg (Size: 39.77 KB / Downloads: 223)


  20431754_10213462076731456_1051401808650958524_n.jpg (Size: 47.45 KB / Downloads: 219)

3. time to get working with your blade, just cut it out bit by bit starting in the middle, not quite all the way to the edges of the metal cutaway, leave it overhanging a bit, the light will squeese in and the outer trim make it all look neat and tidy,




  20431651_10213461866606203_2837732957838007838_n.jpg (Size: 46.11 KB / Downloads: 221)


4. at this point you may struggle to pull the wiring out the recess as it may be taped up and looped back through a hole, i had to open the boot, pull the rubber weather seal off, get hold of the plastic trim you can now see and give it a tug all the way along, it will slide out about 1 inch, now it's out use your flat blade screwdriver to ping the metal clips off the trim, just get it underneath and a little twist of the wrist will set it free, do this all the way along, don't worry they will clip back fine, you can now pull the headlining down a little from the back and discover your light wiring!!   do the reverse to put things back as they were.






  20526005_10213462077131466_5451541312589992084_n.jpg (Size: 50.88 KB / Downloads: 217)


  20476184_10213462077091465_7957810395035009602_n.jpg (Size: 46.37 KB / Downloads: 216)


5. ok . . . if it's the phase 2/3 light you're fitting like i did you will need to rewire it so time to strip off! . . . the outer wiring plastic i mean of course, take care, i always strip wire with a stanley, you may prefer a proper stripper whatever, just don't slice your fingers, you should be left with something like this . .



  20597298_10213461866406198_5873494161621223733_n.jpg (Size: 95.72 KB / Downloads: 209)


6. time to wire this sucker up, i did the hard work here and it took me far longer than it should have to figure out what went where no matter the wiring is as follows:
 
Colour: RED to RED . . . .  GREEN to GREEN . . . . . BLUE to LIGHT BROWN . . . . . WHITE to CREAM . . . . . (see pic to clarify)

PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO WRAP ALL WIRES PROPERLY WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE AFTER TWISTING TOGETHER!


  20431612_10213461866166192_7494664523024825074_n.jpg (Size: 54.52 KB / Downloads: 213)


7. simply slip the light trim into your freshly cut out headlining hole, it only fits one way, the two little plastic tabs should be folded up so the trim will fit in, they will then push out holding the trim in place when you push your light up in place, unless i've missed anything that should be job done, reconnect your battery and revel in your new rear interior courtesy light which should come on with the doors or on demand as you wish. tadaa . . 




  20597063_10213461866206193_8481496561635509353_n.jpg (Size: 44.58 KB / Downloads: 214)



hope this was of use to you all, any questions please ask, as i was writing i realised i should have taken more pics, i still can if needed . .


Cheers, Matt . . . ]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35977 Wed, 31 May 2017 21:43:38 +0100 Eeyore]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35977 http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html]]> http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35431 Thu, 05 Jan 2017 20:33:47 +0000 Eeyore]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35431 The Ultimate Bilstein Suspension Guide

The Bilstein/Eibach suspension is one of the most popular setups when it comes to a fast road setup or just replacing the OEM suspension.  In this guide we will look at all the part numbers, their prices and what they are reportedly suitable for and how much its going to set you back. Below is a list of most readily available options and their part numbers/prices (Jan 2017). Where possible cheaper alternative manufacturers and part numbers are listed.

Part Numbers & Prices
Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-045959 - £45
Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-045966 - £45
Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247612 - £120
Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247629 - £120
Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247308 - £120
Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247315 - £120
Bilstein B4 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) 19-019314 - £40 each
Bilstein B6 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-020749 - £90 each
Bilstein 205 Grp N Challenge Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-010382 - £110 each
Bilstein 205 Grp A Tarmac Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-023139 - £150 each
Eibach 30mm Lowering Spring Kit (Left&Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair
Bilstein B12 Kit - 46-194329 - £600

You will need to reuse or purchase the following parts:

Spring Top Cup - 5031-84 (formerly 5031-37)  - £26 each
Top Mount Kit - 5031-60 (alt Febi Bilstein 37931) - £90 pair
Dust Boot - 5254-13 - £9 each
Bump Stop - 503327 (alt Febi-Bilstein 19618) - £10 each

Note: The bilstein B12 kit includes B8 fronts with the Eibach springs and B6 rears. There are no such thing as B8 rears. B4 is OEM where as B6/8 are performance orientated. B6 and B8 shock absorbers are identical however the B8 has a shorter shaft allowing for lowering.

Service Box Diagram



Option 1: OEM Replacement

For an OEM setup, Bilstein B4s are the most direct replacement for the OEM shock absorbers. For original height you should use the original springs but slight lowering with the 30mm kit should be fine. B4s shock absorbers on the rear suit a standard height beam.

1x Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-045959 - £45
1x Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-045966 - £45
2x Bilstein B4 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) 19-019314 - £40 each
1x Eibach 30mm Lowering Springs (Left/Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair

Total: £290 + £150 if not reusing parts.

Option 2: Fast Road

For a fast road performance orientated setup Bilstein B6s are fine for use with standard springs but B8 shock absorbers should be used when lowering springs of 30mm or greater are fitted. On the rear with a lowered rear beam B6s are suitable however with torsion bars of 21mm or thicker fitting the 205 group Ns is supposedly a good setup.

1x Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247612 - £120
1x Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247629 - £120
or
1x Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247308 - £120
1x Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247315 - £120

2x Bilstein B6 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-020749 - £90 each
1x Eibach 30mm Lowering Springs (Left/Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair



Total: £500 
Bilstein B12 Kit - 46-194329 - £600

Note: The Bilstein B12 kit is made up of B8 front shocks, B6 rear shocks and the Eibach pro spring kit. There seems to be no apparent reason as to why this is more expensive than its constituent parts.

Option 3: Dedicated Track

The bilsteins will cope with rally and track situations however they are not tuneable. For those who wish to fine tune their setup look for coilovers over £600. 

Fitting

Fitting is as described in Ginges Suspension fitting guide. The only thing additional to recommend not mentioned in the guide is that new spring top cups come unpainted. Someone will probably tell me they are galvanised but for additional protection it may be a good idea to paint them before fitting.




Photos

These are photos that I have taken of all the parts needed for the setup. Part numbers shown where possible.






]]> The Ultimate Bilstein Suspension Guide

The Bilstein/Eibach suspension is one of the most popular setups when it comes to a fast road setup or just replacing the OEM suspension.  In this guide we will look at all the part numbers, their prices and what they are reportedly suitable for and how much its going to set you back. Below is a list of most readily available options and their part numbers/prices (Jan 2017). Where possible cheaper alternative manufacturers and part numbers are listed.

Part Numbers & Prices
Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-045959 - £45
Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-045966 - £45
Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247612 - £120
Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247629 - £120
Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247308 - £120
Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247315 - £120
Bilstein B4 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) 19-019314 - £40 each
Bilstein B6 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-020749 - £90 each
Bilstein 205 Grp N Challenge Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-010382 - £110 each
Bilstein 205 Grp A Tarmac Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-023139 - £150 each
Eibach 30mm Lowering Spring Kit (Left&Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair
Bilstein B12 Kit - 46-194329 - £600

You will need to reuse or purchase the following parts:

Spring Top Cup - 5031-84 (formerly 5031-37)  - £26 each
Top Mount Kit - 5031-60 (alt Febi Bilstein 37931) - £90 pair
Dust Boot - 5254-13 - £9 each
Bump Stop - 503327 (alt Febi-Bilstein 19618) - £10 each

Note: The bilstein B12 kit includes B8 fronts with the Eibach springs and B6 rears. There are no such thing as B8 rears. B4 is OEM where as B6/8 are performance orientated. B6 and B8 shock absorbers are identical however the B8 has a shorter shaft allowing for lowering.

Service Box Diagram



Option 1: OEM Replacement

For an OEM setup, Bilstein B4s are the most direct replacement for the OEM shock absorbers. For original height you should use the original springs but slight lowering with the 30mm kit should be fine. B4s shock absorbers on the rear suit a standard height beam.

1x Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-045959 - £45
1x Bilstein B4 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-045966 - £45
2x Bilstein B4 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) 19-019314 - £40 each
1x Eibach 30mm Lowering Springs (Left/Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair

Total: £290 + £150 if not reusing parts.

Option 2: Fast Road

For a fast road performance orientated setup Bilstein B6s are fine for use with standard springs but B8 shock absorbers should be used when lowering springs of 30mm or greater are fitted. On the rear with a lowered rear beam B6s are suitable however with torsion bars of 21mm or thicker fitting the 205 group Ns is supposedly a good setup.

1x Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247612 - £120
1x Bilstein B6 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247629 - £120
or
1x Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Left) - 22-247308 - £120
1x Bilstein B8 Front Shock Absorber (Right) - 22-247315 - £120

2x Bilstein B6 Rear Shock Absorber (Left/Right) - 24-020749 - £90 each
1x Eibach 30mm Lowering Springs (Left/Right) - (1.8/1.9/2.0) E7011-120, (1.4/1.6) E7010-120 - £120 pair



Total: £500 
Bilstein B12 Kit - 46-194329 - £600

Note: The Bilstein B12 kit is made up of B8 front shocks, B6 rear shocks and the Eibach pro spring kit. There seems to be no apparent reason as to why this is more expensive than its constituent parts.

Option 3: Dedicated Track

The bilsteins will cope with rally and track situations however they are not tuneable. For those who wish to fine tune their setup look for coilovers over £600. 

Fitting

Fitting is as described in Ginges Suspension fitting guide. The only thing additional to recommend not mentioned in the guide is that new spring top cups come unpainted. Someone will probably tell me they are galvanised but for additional protection it may be a good idea to paint them before fitting.




Photos

These are photos that I have taken of all the parts needed for the setup. Part numbers shown where possible.






]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35180 Mon, 14 Nov 2016 15:48:46 +0000 Eeyore]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35180
For the past two years and on two cars I have run the same set of 195/50/15 Uniroyal Rainsport 2s. These were bought for about £45 per corner from Camskill. At the time these were considered to be a good 306 tyre and thrown in the category of budget performance.

My experience of these on a 1.8 XS on track was that the sidewalls are very flexible and are easily sucked under the tyre. They were fantastically predictable in the fact that the entire car would slide sideways in a controllable manner.

On a rallye with the heavier gti engine the lack of grip was concerning and there was a lot of understeer. They could easily be spun up. Wear on the sides was very obvious but with plenty of tread left in the centre and inside.

My experience of these tyres in this time has been that they are a good road tyre but not a performance tyre. This is reflected in the price. They are great value and deliver a lot for the price point but I wouldnt recommend them for any track work. Tread pattern looks cool though!

]]>
For the past two years and on two cars I have run the same set of 195/50/15 Uniroyal Rainsport 2s. These were bought for about £45 per corner from Camskill. At the time these were considered to be a good 306 tyre and thrown in the category of budget performance.

My experience of these on a 1.8 XS on track was that the sidewalls are very flexible and are easily sucked under the tyre. They were fantastically predictable in the fact that the entire car would slide sideways in a controllable manner.

On a rallye with the heavier gti engine the lack of grip was concerning and there was a lot of understeer. They could easily be spun up. Wear on the sides was very obvious but with plenty of tread left in the centre and inside.

My experience of these tyres in this time has been that they are a good road tyre but not a performance tyre. This is reflected in the price. They are great value and deliver a lot for the price point but I wouldnt recommend them for any track work. Tread pattern looks cool though!

]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35179 Mon, 14 Nov 2016 13:39:17 +0000 Eeyore]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35179
Recently purchased four 195/50/15 Nankang NS2Rs for £60 a corner and £15 delivery from Demontweeks. Then a further £60 to fit so total £325 for a tyre package fitted. Also came with four "lightweight race valves" which went straight in the bin. These are in the 180 street compound but are also available in a 120 race compound which I couldnt find.

Tyres were bedded in for 350 miles on the trip to and from expo before doing a full track day at Snetterton. Having previously run UniRoyal RainSport 2s these were much better. The sidewalls are reinforced and they are super stiff. Tyre fitters were swearing trying to get them on and they still wouldnt pop with 100psi in them.

They weigh a lot more so the rolling weight of the wheel is more but the grip is much better. They are a control tyre for the mini challenge and mx5 race series so are obviously taken fairly seriously at that level.

In the wet at snetterton there was very little grip whatever tyre you had however after the track dried out a bit I had a lot of confidence in the grip. There was very little wear at the end of the day and the tyres were sticky when I came off track with very little of the melted rubber usually picked up after hard cornering. For people using these on track I started with 25psi all round and ended up with NSF 33PSI, NSR30PSI, DSF, 30PSI, DSR27PSI.

For £60 a corner which is the same cheaper than a premium road tyre in the same size I would definitely recommend them. They are probably about 70% of the way to R888s.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport...ns-2r-tyre

]]>
Recently purchased four 195/50/15 Nankang NS2Rs for £60 a corner and £15 delivery from Demontweeks. Then a further £60 to fit so total £325 for a tyre package fitted. Also came with four "lightweight race valves" which went straight in the bin. These are in the 180 street compound but are also available in a 120 race compound which I couldnt find.

Tyres were bedded in for 350 miles on the trip to and from expo before doing a full track day at Snetterton. Having previously run UniRoyal RainSport 2s these were much better. The sidewalls are reinforced and they are super stiff. Tyre fitters were swearing trying to get them on and they still wouldnt pop with 100psi in them.

They weigh a lot more so the rolling weight of the wheel is more but the grip is much better. They are a control tyre for the mini challenge and mx5 race series so are obviously taken fairly seriously at that level.

In the wet at snetterton there was very little grip whatever tyre you had however after the track dried out a bit I had a lot of confidence in the grip. There was very little wear at the end of the day and the tyres were sticky when I came off track with very little of the melted rubber usually picked up after hard cornering. For people using these on track I started with 25psi all round and ended up with NSF 33PSI, NSR30PSI, DSF, 30PSI, DSR27PSI.

For £60 a corner which is the same cheaper than a premium road tyre in the same size I would definitely recommend them. They are probably about 70% of the way to R888s.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport...ns-2r-tyre

]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35173 Sun, 13 Nov 2016 17:44:01 +0000 bashbarnard]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35173

So I often get asked a lot of questions about tyres weirdly. So I thought I would write a general guide for it.


There are a fair few bits of information on a tyres side wall so we we start with the easy ones.


  tyres.jpg (Size: 9.43 KB / Downloads: 200)


The first one width is self explanatory, its the width of the tyre tread.
Profile is the depth of the tyre. Its a percentage of the width. So if you have a 200/50 the sidewall will be 100mm high.
Diameter again is self explanatory. Its the size of the rim that the tyre will fit in inchs.
Load is the amount of weight each tyre can carry.


  load_rating.png (Size: 56.57 KB / Downloads: 221)

The speed rating is how fast the tyre can safely go


  tyre speed rating.png (Size: 4.66 KB / Downloads: 233)

These are the basic things to do with tyres. Then we get the tyres ratings that are legally required to be supplied with all new tyres. The 3 things on the label are DB decibels. Ie how loud the tyres are. Wet grip efficiency rated from A-G and fuel efficiency rating from A-G.
You also get some tyres that are rotational and have to be facing the correct way on the car.


  tyrelabelling.jpg (Size: 67.89 KB / Downloads: 212)

For people that buy second hand tyres. Yes they do exist, myself included have done this in the past and have even tracked on part worns. Dot markings are really handy thing to know. The next diagram should help out here. It identify dates of when they were made so you know youre not getting old hard tyres. So a tyre with a dot code of 2011 was made in the 20th week of 2011


  dotcode2.jpg (Size: 78.14 KB / Downloads: 209)

You also get wear grading which to be honest a lot of people dont know or care about. Generally speaking the higher grip a tyre has the shorter amount of time they last. Its graded from 100 which is really fast wear upwards. However I dont know everything and this is one thing thats never really botherd me. If someone would like to help me explain this one a bit better you can.


MOT STANDARDS


These can seem overly complicated bringing in crossply and radial. With our cars we would never see crossply so I am going to assume you run what everyone else in this country does which is radials.
The tyres have to be of good general condition, no lumps or bulges and no cuts so the cords of the tyre are showing. The tread depth must be 1.6 ¾ of the way across the centre part of the tyre all the way around. This means the outer edges can be bald and still pass. Though I wouldn't advise driving on them an mot is MINIMUM requirements. They also have to have the same size across an axle.


  mot_test_tyres2.jpg (Size: 31.55 KB / Downloads: 213)

If anybody would like me to add anymore to this just add a suggestion and I can adjust correct accordingly. Ill admit im not the first to know everything.


a good website to see what all the meanings mean in an interactive way. 
gives stopping distances etc dependant on tread wear dot codes meaning. loads of useful stuff honestly worth a look.

http://app.dealersalesaid.co.uk/]]>

So I often get asked a lot of questions about tyres weirdly. So I thought I would write a general guide for it.


There are a fair few bits of information on a tyres side wall so we we start with the easy ones.


  tyres.jpg (Size: 9.43 KB / Downloads: 200)


The first one width is self explanatory, its the width of the tyre tread.
Profile is the depth of the tyre. Its a percentage of the width. So if you have a 200/50 the sidewall will be 100mm high.
Diameter again is self explanatory. Its the size of the rim that the tyre will fit in inchs.
Load is the amount of weight each tyre can carry.


  load_rating.png (Size: 56.57 KB / Downloads: 221)

The speed rating is how fast the tyre can safely go


  tyre speed rating.png (Size: 4.66 KB / Downloads: 233)

These are the basic things to do with tyres. Then we get the tyres ratings that are legally required to be supplied with all new tyres. The 3 things on the label are DB decibels. Ie how loud the tyres are. Wet grip efficiency rated from A-G and fuel efficiency rating from A-G.
You also get some tyres that are rotational and have to be facing the correct way on the car.


  tyrelabelling.jpg (Size: 67.89 KB / Downloads: 212)

For people that buy second hand tyres. Yes they do exist, myself included have done this in the past and have even tracked on part worns. Dot markings are really handy thing to know. The next diagram should help out here. It identify dates of when they were made so you know youre not getting old hard tyres. So a tyre with a dot code of 2011 was made in the 20th week of 2011


  dotcode2.jpg (Size: 78.14 KB / Downloads: 209)

You also get wear grading which to be honest a lot of people dont know or care about. Generally speaking the higher grip a tyre has the shorter amount of time they last. Its graded from 100 which is really fast wear upwards. However I dont know everything and this is one thing thats never really botherd me. If someone would like to help me explain this one a bit better you can.


MOT STANDARDS


These can seem overly complicated bringing in crossply and radial. With our cars we would never see crossply so I am going to assume you run what everyone else in this country does which is radials.
The tyres have to be of good general condition, no lumps or bulges and no cuts so the cords of the tyre are showing. The tread depth must be 1.6 ¾ of the way across the centre part of the tyre all the way around. This means the outer edges can be bald and still pass. Though I wouldn't advise driving on them an mot is MINIMUM requirements. They also have to have the same size across an axle.


  mot_test_tyres2.jpg (Size: 31.55 KB / Downloads: 213)

If anybody would like me to add anymore to this just add a suggestion and I can adjust correct accordingly. Ill admit im not the first to know everything.


a good website to see what all the meanings mean in an interactive way. 
gives stopping distances etc dependant on tread wear dot codes meaning. loads of useful stuff honestly worth a look.

http://app.dealersalesaid.co.uk/]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35104 Mon, 31 Oct 2016 15:06:54 +0000 bokus]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=35104
Apologies if someone has posted somewhere else. Thanks]]>
Apologies if someone has posted somewhere else. Thanks]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=34590 Tue, 26 Jul 2016 20:54:21 +0100 toseland]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=34590
not the most complicated guide or project but still a very useful addition if you have a dashcam and don't want to be running wires around the car or up from the cigarette socket.

Benefits of this:  99% of dashcams are now charged via USB cable,  some have mini, some have micro etc and doing it this way allows you to use any normal usb cable, so if you change your camera, or piece of equipment it takes 2 seconds to change the cable to fit your new camera. 



What you will need:
T20 torx bit of some description (i used an allen key style one which was fine),  
credit card/store card etc or fingernails to remove lights 
USB charger from the Dashcam, with USB socket intact.  the longer type are slightly better for this as they usually have the contacts for + and - on wires rather than integrated into the circuit board
appropriate rating of radio fuse (mine is 1amp)
Soldering iron, solder, Solder pump (makes life easier)
Electrical connectors (bullet, spade, crimp or similar)
Electrical tape and shrink wrap
Small USB cable
optionally, a drill bit for the LED if you plan on using one.

Creation of the power supply

The dashcam i had came with a small USB type power supply with a female USB connector to plug a cord into. Furthermore it was the longer type shown below. Essentially i did three things. 


Note: i was lucky with this one as the cigarette lighter connections were connected via short lengths of black and red wire. If yours are not connected via coloured wire indicating +ve and -ve then the one that is connected to the pin at the end of the lighter plug (silver bit on the top picture) will be 12volt live or positive,  and the ones connected to the springs that touch the side of the socket will be ground/earth. 


  IMAG0035.jpg (Size: 2.47 MB / Downloads: 190)

1. Removed the electrical circuit board and wires from the plug housing itself, mine was easy to do by unscrewing the end and pulling the two halves apart.
2. I unsoldered the LED making a note of which way round it went (my circuit board had +ve and -ve marked on it making it a little easier) and resoldered it to a small length of wire allowing me to mount it where i wanted.
3. Soldered wire extensions and a fuse (on the positive side) to the positive and negative terminals on the circuit board. 


  IMAG0031.jpg (Size: 3.24 MB / Downloads: 187)


IMPORTANT: This was then fully insulated with electrical tape to ensure it didn't short out on anything metallic in the car (sure you don't need a picture of that) and also the fuse secured to ensure it didn't pull off


Installation of the Power supply in the car

Step 1: Using your finger nail or credit card to remove both of the interior lights and unplug them,  put them somewhere safe as they are not needed for this. 



For reference, the brown plug (red and green wires) is for the map-light,  and the black plug (white, green, yellow and red wires) is for the main interior light. 


  IMAG0025.jpg (Size: 2.98 MB / Downloads: 178)


Step 2: Remove the  plastic surround by undoing the two Torx screws underneath the main interior light. This allows a little more access to the wires a little later/ Pull it down from the side nearest the mirror gently, and it will slide out of the back.
If you have A/C or auto climate control the sensor for this is secured via 2 small screws to this surround,  once you have removed it you can unplug the orange plug seen in the top right of the picture.



  IMAG0028.jpg (Size: 3.17 MB / Downloads: 173)

Step 3: If required, drill a small hole for the indicator LED from your charger if it has one.  
NOTE: mine came with a little dim LED indicator light, however the belkin one i have in my other USB charger could happily second as a headlight on the car its that bright. IF this is the case i wiould suggest putting the LED in the interior light or leaving it up in the headlining so it doesn't distract you when you are driving


  IMAG0032.jpg (Size: 3.17 MB / Downloads: 183)

Step 4:  this is easier if you choose the map light as the wires are a little more accessible but you can use either of the wires. 
Cut the GREEN and RED wires (without power or keys in the ignition or you will blow a fuse) 

RED is ignition live,  GREEN is ground/earth
Connect the POSITIVE side of your circuit (red side on mine) to the RED wire
Connect the NEGATIVE side of your circuit (black side on mine) to the GREEN wire

I used Butt connectors to do this 

Pic to follow


Step 5: Looking from the back of the car towards the mirror you will see the front of the headlining,  feed your USB Cable through this and it will pop out by the mirror, plug it into the power source and reassemble the lot in reverse order


step 6: you should be left with a nice neat light surround, with freshly integrated USB power supply and indicator light (if you have one)




  IMAG0034.jpg (Size: 2.4 MB / Downloads: 179)



The result: a USB socket power supply that comes on when the ignition is turned on, and provides 5v@0.5amp, fused to a USB device such as a dashcam that is hidden and interchangeable with any device you want.]]>
not the most complicated guide or project but still a very useful addition if you have a dashcam and don't want to be running wires around the car or up from the cigarette socket.

Benefits of this:  99% of dashcams are now charged via USB cable,  some have mini, some have micro etc and doing it this way allows you to use any normal usb cable, so if you change your camera, or piece of equipment it takes 2 seconds to change the cable to fit your new camera. 



What you will need:
T20 torx bit of some description (i used an allen key style one which was fine),  
credit card/store card etc or fingernails to remove lights 
USB charger from the Dashcam, with USB socket intact.  the longer type are slightly better for this as they usually have the contacts for + and - on wires rather than integrated into the circuit board
appropriate rating of radio fuse (mine is 1amp)
Soldering iron, solder, Solder pump (makes life easier)
Electrical connectors (bullet, spade, crimp or similar)
Electrical tape and shrink wrap
Small USB cable
optionally, a drill bit for the LED if you plan on using one.

Creation of the power supply

The dashcam i had came with a small USB type power supply with a female USB connector to plug a cord into. Furthermore it was the longer type shown below. Essentially i did three things. 


Note: i was lucky with this one as the cigarette lighter connections were connected via short lengths of black and red wire. If yours are not connected via coloured wire indicating +ve and -ve then the one that is connected to the pin at the end of the lighter plug (silver bit on the top picture) will be 12volt live or positive,  and the ones connected to the springs that touch the side of the socket will be ground/earth. 


  IMAG0035.jpg (Size: 2.47 MB / Downloads: 190)

1. Removed the electrical circuit board and wires from the plug housing itself, mine was easy to do by unscrewing the end and pulling the two halves apart.
2. I unsoldered the LED making a note of which way round it went (my circuit board had +ve and -ve marked on it making it a little easier) and resoldered it to a small length of wire allowing me to mount it where i wanted.
3. Soldered wire extensions and a fuse (on the positive side) to the positive and negative terminals on the circuit board. 


  IMAG0031.jpg (Size: 3.24 MB / Downloads: 187)


IMPORTANT: This was then fully insulated with electrical tape to ensure it didn't short out on anything metallic in the car (sure you don't need a picture of that) and also the fuse secured to ensure it didn't pull off


Installation of the Power supply in the car

Step 1: Using your finger nail or credit card to remove both of the interior lights and unplug them,  put them somewhere safe as they are not needed for this. 



For reference, the brown plug (red and green wires) is for the map-light,  and the black plug (white, green, yellow and red wires) is for the main interior light. 


  IMAG0025.jpg (Size: 2.98 MB / Downloads: 178)


Step 2: Remove the  plastic surround by undoing the two Torx screws underneath the main interior light. This allows a little more access to the wires a little later/ Pull it down from the side nearest the mirror gently, and it will slide out of the back.
If you have A/C or auto climate control the sensor for this is secured via 2 small screws to this surround,  once you have removed it you can unplug the orange plug seen in the top right of the picture.



  IMAG0028.jpg (Size: 3.17 MB / Downloads: 173)

Step 3: If required, drill a small hole for the indicator LED from your charger if it has one.  
NOTE: mine came with a little dim LED indicator light, however the belkin one i have in my other USB charger could happily second as a headlight on the car its that bright. IF this is the case i wiould suggest putting the LED in the interior light or leaving it up in the headlining so it doesn't distract you when you are driving


  IMAG0032.jpg (Size: 3.17 MB / Downloads: 183)

Step 4:  this is easier if you choose the map light as the wires are a little more accessible but you can use either of the wires. 
Cut the GREEN and RED wires (without power or keys in the ignition or you will blow a fuse) 

RED is ignition live,  GREEN is ground/earth
Connect the POSITIVE side of your circuit (red side on mine) to the RED wire
Connect the NEGATIVE side of your circuit (black side on mine) to the GREEN wire

I used Butt connectors to do this 

Pic to follow


Step 5: Looking from the back of the car towards the mirror you will see the front of the headlining,  feed your USB Cable through this and it will pop out by the mirror, plug it into the power source and reassemble the lot in reverse order


step 6: you should be left with a nice neat light surround, with freshly integrated USB power supply and indicator light (if you have one)




  IMAG0034.jpg (Size: 2.4 MB / Downloads: 179)



The result: a USB socket power supply that comes on when the ignition is turned on, and provides 5v@0.5amp, fused to a USB device such as a dashcam that is hidden and interchangeable with any device you want.]]>