https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/ Wed, 15 Apr 2026 01:24:35 +0000 MyBB https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37397 Tue, 13 Aug 2019 21:52:21 +0100 Chuckie888]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37397 Inherited a 1 owner, low milage 1999 306TD Meridian Est with no keys an am trying to get it started rather than being sensible and scrapping it.

Bought a Lexia3(rev C allegedly) interface off fleabay with the usual software.

After literally a week, I have managed to get both PP2000 Ver(22.14 & 25.01) and DiagSys working. Tried a couple of old XP SP3 laptops, turned off wi-fi, av and firewall, uninstalled a few things re-interpreted the keygen and it works, but when I actually use PP2000 all I get is "The ECU has not replied". I then created a VM on my Windows10 Laptop, overcame the floating point CPU problems with Winfloat.exe but get the same "The ECU has not replied".

The program doesn't see the Lucas injector pump never mind show me the options for key programming, which is what I need to do to get it going. Autolocksmiths don't seem to be interested on the rare occasion that they pick up.

Does PP2000 work with diesels? Do I need an older version?]]> Inherited a 1 owner, low milage 1999 306TD Meridian Est with no keys an am trying to get it started rather than being sensible and scrapping it.

Bought a Lexia3(rev C allegedly) interface off fleabay with the usual software.

After literally a week, I have managed to get both PP2000 Ver(22.14 & 25.01) and DiagSys working. Tried a couple of old XP SP3 laptops, turned off wi-fi, av and firewall, uninstalled a few things re-interpreted the keygen and it works, but when I actually use PP2000 all I get is "The ECU has not replied". I then created a VM on my Windows10 Laptop, overcame the floating point CPU problems with Winfloat.exe but get the same "The ECU has not replied".

The program doesn't see the Lucas injector pump never mind show me the options for key programming, which is what I need to do to get it going. Autolocksmiths don't seem to be interested on the rare occasion that they pick up.

Does PP2000 work with diesels? Do I need an older version?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37180 Sat, 29 Dec 2018 10:24:51 +0000 Welshy_Pete]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=37180
I have 20mm hubcentric spacers with long wheel bolts I used on other 16 alloy wheels. Do you think they will be ok to use for fitment?

The tyre sizes 205 40 45 50 17 do all these fit with out rubbing anywhere without being lowered?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk]]>
I have 20mm hubcentric spacers with long wheel bolts I used on other 16 alloy wheels. Do you think they will be ok to use for fitment?

The tyre sizes 205 40 45 50 17 do all these fit with out rubbing anywhere without being lowered?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36995 Tue, 07 Aug 2018 11:13:59 +0100 pug306driver]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36995
The wheel bearings have an internal magnetic ring which is fragile apparently, and the wheel bearing has to be fitted in the correct way, not the wrong way round, which may be the problem the lad is having as the system worked before a front wheel bearing was replaced "proffesionaly" ?!

The car has had a lit abs light for sometime before we got this car.

Recently whilst checking the system with the wheels in the air and rotating, the connections where disconnected for testing and then refitted. The car back on the deck and ready for a test drive, the abs light was out, but cam back on after driving for say 1/4 mile.

Maybe a bad connection but suspect a deeper fault.

The ABS sensor is non magnetic, unlike our beloved pugs.

Does anyone on here know if the abs sensor is a coil, a hall effect device, or maybe have a diode inside it ?

The Haynes book says look for an output of 1 - 2v when the wheel is rotating.

A resistance/continuity  check of the 2 connectors to the sensor show different ohms values dependant in which way the dmm leads are connected to the sensor. The sensor shows no fluctuation of output, any output or continuity when the wheel is rotated above 5mph.

I have a scope and will test again with that just in case a dmm will not show any output. Both front sensors show very similar resistance check values but are from different manufacturers, Delphi and probably bosch as one is made in Germany.

No hope of getting any info from bosch (they can go a f them selves! ) but maybe Delphi will play ball ??

Help anyone.......]]>
The wheel bearings have an internal magnetic ring which is fragile apparently, and the wheel bearing has to be fitted in the correct way, not the wrong way round, which may be the problem the lad is having as the system worked before a front wheel bearing was replaced "proffesionaly" ?!

The car has had a lit abs light for sometime before we got this car.

Recently whilst checking the system with the wheels in the air and rotating, the connections where disconnected for testing and then refitted. The car back on the deck and ready for a test drive, the abs light was out, but cam back on after driving for say 1/4 mile.

Maybe a bad connection but suspect a deeper fault.

The ABS sensor is non magnetic, unlike our beloved pugs.

Does anyone on here know if the abs sensor is a coil, a hall effect device, or maybe have a diode inside it ?

The Haynes book says look for an output of 1 - 2v when the wheel is rotating.

A resistance/continuity  check of the 2 connectors to the sensor show different ohms values dependant in which way the dmm leads are connected to the sensor. The sensor shows no fluctuation of output, any output or continuity when the wheel is rotated above 5mph.

I have a scope and will test again with that just in case a dmm will not show any output. Both front sensors show very similar resistance check values but are from different manufacturers, Delphi and probably bosch as one is made in Germany.

No hope of getting any info from bosch (they can go a f them selves! ) but maybe Delphi will play ball ??

Help anyone.......]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36931 Wed, 20 Jun 2018 22:40:33 +0100 Niall]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36931 Have recently bought a 2014 1.5 transit connect. The garage selling it did the cam belt and pump on it before sale as it was due. The day after I collected it it briefly overheated. When checking, it seemed to have a massive air lock so I put it down to a rushed bleed. It’s now started over heating briefely again and is losing coolant. Thankfully it’s not drinking It because it’s leaking on the drivers wheel. 

The Issue is that on the bottom of the tank is a small nipple which seems to be releasing the coolant periodically obviously this isn’t right but why is it happening. Do we think faulty valve or some sort of excess pressure causing it to leak?

The garage have agreed to take it back (it’s inder warranty) but I’m so busy at the moment I can’t be without a van so if it’s something I can easily sort myself I will do!]]> Have recently bought a 2014 1.5 transit connect. The garage selling it did the cam belt and pump on it before sale as it was due. The day after I collected it it briefly overheated. When checking, it seemed to have a massive air lock so I put it down to a rushed bleed. It’s now started over heating briefely again and is losing coolant. Thankfully it’s not drinking It because it’s leaking on the drivers wheel. 

The Issue is that on the bottom of the tank is a small nipple which seems to be releasing the coolant periodically obviously this isn’t right but why is it happening. Do we think faulty valve or some sort of excess pressure causing it to leak?

The garage have agreed to take it back (it’s inder warranty) but I’m so busy at the moment I can’t be without a van so if it’s something I can easily sort myself I will do!]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36861 Fri, 25 May 2018 10:55:46 +0100 Magenta Sunset]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36861 what's the most effective way of going about this please?]]> what's the most effective way of going about this please?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36777 Tue, 24 Apr 2018 12:42:16 +0100 Toms306]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36777
I've cured one medium leak on the system by replacing the condenser (also comes with new drier) and a lower pipe.

It was held on vac test for an hour and showed no drop in pressure at all. 3 weeks later the system has just dropped enough pressure to stop the compressor coming on.

Obviously this is a very small leak, and I can't see any dye anywhere around the system with a UV light.

Is there any other way to find a very slow leak apart from leak dye? Wondered if there was some sort of 'sniff' test similar to an emissions probe?

Also, has anyone tried the DIY leak sealer in a can? Or is there a professional type at AC specialists? I'm not a fan of sealers as they can just block pipes but as it's such a small leak I'm not sure how else I'll find it.]]>
I've cured one medium leak on the system by replacing the condenser (also comes with new drier) and a lower pipe.

It was held on vac test for an hour and showed no drop in pressure at all. 3 weeks later the system has just dropped enough pressure to stop the compressor coming on.

Obviously this is a very small leak, and I can't see any dye anywhere around the system with a UV light.

Is there any other way to find a very slow leak apart from leak dye? Wondered if there was some sort of 'sniff' test similar to an emissions probe?

Also, has anyone tried the DIY leak sealer in a can? Or is there a professional type at AC specialists? I'm not a fan of sealers as they can just block pipes but as it's such a small leak I'm not sure how else I'll find it.]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36685 Sat, 17 Mar 2018 20:38:17 +0000 Piggy]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36685
Fixed up a 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6hdi that I basically got free due to clutch/flywheel/limp.
Fixed all that. 

Gave to a single mum of 4 in desperate need. 

When it's cold. It won't start. Won't crank.

It will, eventually, if you keep trying IE keep turning the key to the start position. Sometimes after turning a few times, sometimes after 5minutes of turning the key! 

If warm, fine it seems. 

Battery is good (new) 

No clicks from starter. 

Anyone had anything similar? Lol

All earth's fine.]]>
Fixed up a 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6hdi that I basically got free due to clutch/flywheel/limp.
Fixed all that. 

Gave to a single mum of 4 in desperate need. 

When it's cold. It won't start. Won't crank.

It will, eventually, if you keep trying IE keep turning the key to the start position. Sometimes after turning a few times, sometimes after 5minutes of turning the key! 

If warm, fine it seems. 

Battery is good (new) 

No clicks from starter. 

Anyone had anything similar? Lol

All earth's fine.]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36675 Fri, 09 Mar 2018 21:24:56 +0000 DeeTurbo]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36675
So my car is pulling to the left when I let go of the wheel.

When I go the DS3 I noticed it wasn't driving very well so I investigated the front end especially because the front springs had been replace and I thought something must not have been aligned or put back correctly.

I found the top mounts were not aligned so I adjusted them and tracked the car with a trackace tool Link

It's a great piece of kit and it's paid for itself with the amount I've used it but it takes a couple of attempts as it aligns the drivers side wheel to the passenger so you'll have the steering wheel on the piss the first time but you can dial that out when you do a trail run.

Anyway, the tracking is set correctly and when you hold the wheel straight the car goes straight but as soon as you let go the car wants to go to the left.

The tyre pressures are correct, the front two tyres are around the same tread but a little low and are the same make and model of tyre.

Could it be a characteristic of the Michelin Pilot Sport 3 when they are down on tread?

I think I'll try swapping the front two over and see if that helps or send the car the other way.

What are you thoughts on this?

The rear springs had been replaced by a different garage so could they have done something wrong there to make this happen?]]>
So my car is pulling to the left when I let go of the wheel.

When I go the DS3 I noticed it wasn't driving very well so I investigated the front end especially because the front springs had been replace and I thought something must not have been aligned or put back correctly.

I found the top mounts were not aligned so I adjusted them and tracked the car with a trackace tool Link

It's a great piece of kit and it's paid for itself with the amount I've used it but it takes a couple of attempts as it aligns the drivers side wheel to the passenger so you'll have the steering wheel on the piss the first time but you can dial that out when you do a trail run.

Anyway, the tracking is set correctly and when you hold the wheel straight the car goes straight but as soon as you let go the car wants to go to the left.

The tyre pressures are correct, the front two tyres are around the same tread but a little low and are the same make and model of tyre.

Could it be a characteristic of the Michelin Pilot Sport 3 when they are down on tread?

I think I'll try swapping the front two over and see if that helps or send the car the other way.

What are you thoughts on this?

The rear springs had been replaced by a different garage so could they have done something wrong there to make this happen?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36655 Tue, 27 Feb 2018 21:53:31 +0000 dt_]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36655
Any help appreciated, cheers!]]>
Any help appreciated, cheers!]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36643 Tue, 20 Feb 2018 15:59:27 +0000 DeeTurbo]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36643
I know that the EGR gasses help keep the combustion temp down so if the temps are higher could this be the reason why it would fail prematurely but don't the exhaust gasses go hotter to burn off the soot in the DPF.

I'm thinking the tuner might just want me to get a map so it's more money his way, what do you guys think?]]>
I know that the EGR gasses help keep the combustion temp down so if the temps are higher could this be the reason why it would fail prematurely but don't the exhaust gasses go hotter to burn off the soot in the DPF.

I'm thinking the tuner might just want me to get a map so it's more money his way, what do you guys think?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36522 Sat, 23 Dec 2017 11:12:05 +0000 bashbarnard]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36522
I have a small issue with the map on this. In a word I have no idea what im doing to control the VNT turbo. Ill admit im a novice with this. The map that was on the car when i got it was utter shite even i could see that. When i bought it the turbo had melted its blades and siezed the vnt mech. Ive since put another turbo on it off a pd150. Gt1749b. The fueling has been adjusted so there is no smoke and is fairly conservative. However in 1st and second i get issues with overboost unless i feed the throttle in slowly. I currently now have the standard n75 table on. I tried a pd150 n75 table and fiddled about with that a bit but couldnt get it to work. hence the standard table now on it. I KNOW that there is other things in play here like the PID control howver i dont know how to adjust it at all. Any help? any tip? anything?]]>
I have a small issue with the map on this. In a word I have no idea what im doing to control the VNT turbo. Ill admit im a novice with this. The map that was on the car when i got it was utter shite even i could see that. When i bought it the turbo had melted its blades and siezed the vnt mech. Ive since put another turbo on it off a pd150. Gt1749b. The fueling has been adjusted so there is no smoke and is fairly conservative. However in 1st and second i get issues with overboost unless i feed the throttle in slowly. I currently now have the standard n75 table on. I tried a pd150 n75 table and fiddled about with that a bit but couldnt get it to work. hence the standard table now on it. I KNOW that there is other things in play here like the PID control howver i dont know how to adjust it at all. Any help? any tip? anything?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36491 Mon, 04 Dec 2017 14:52:16 +0000 Mighty306]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36491
Now it seems to be trying to self-destruct! Needs DMF & clutch. Also turbo has quite a whistle & is apparently on its way out. It's a difficult decision as car is probably only worth £2.5k n repairs are going to come to £1800. £1000 of that is labour. We'd be prepared to throw that money at it but if anything like the particulate filter decides to throw up a code we could be talking another £500

Local garages view is that its not worth doing the work. It's only 10 years old ffs!!!!]]>
Now it seems to be trying to self-destruct! Needs DMF & clutch. Also turbo has quite a whistle & is apparently on its way out. It's a difficult decision as car is probably only worth £2.5k n repairs are going to come to £1800. £1000 of that is labour. We'd be prepared to throw that money at it but if anything like the particulate filter decides to throw up a code we could be talking another £500

Local garages view is that its not worth doing the work. It's only 10 years old ffs!!!!]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36420 Fri, 03 Nov 2017 14:18:32 +0000 pug306driver]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36420
Would anyone on here know the resistance values for the stop control solenoid/electromagnet part number 0281 002 173

and

spill control solenoid/electromagnet part number 479 763 -1220 please.

A firm up north think they can "repair" the electronics part that sits on top of this pump, replacing the power tranny that controls the spill timing etc..

I  have cut the wires to the 2 units mentioned and have tested the units resistance, the stop control being approx. 5 ohms, and the spill being very low at about 0.4 ohms, which seems low to me.

Bosch uk are useless !!

Can anyone shed some light or know the expected values please ?]]>
Would anyone on here know the resistance values for the stop control solenoid/electromagnet part number 0281 002 173

and

spill control solenoid/electromagnet part number 479 763 -1220 please.

A firm up north think they can "repair" the electronics part that sits on top of this pump, replacing the power tranny that controls the spill timing etc..

I  have cut the wires to the 2 units mentioned and have tested the units resistance, the stop control being approx. 5 ohms, and the spill being very low at about 0.4 ohms, which seems low to me.

Bosch uk are useless !!

Can anyone shed some light or know the expected values please ?]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36363 Thu, 05 Oct 2017 14:16:25 +0100 gti6man]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36363
Its a liquid you put into a container pump the air in the top of the coolant tank through the liquid and it should change colour if exhaust gases are present.]]>
Its a liquid you put into a container pump the air in the top of the coolant tank through the liquid and it should change colour if exhaust gases are present.]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36307 Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:22:46 +0100 Mighty306]]> https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=36307 https://partinfo.org/

eBay (especially) doesn't always list the correct parts for your model of 306.  Partinfo has saved me from ordering the incorrect part on quite a few occasions.]]> https://partinfo.org/

eBay (especially) doesn't always list the correct parts for your model of 306.  Partinfo has saved me from ordering the incorrect part on quite a few occasions.]]>