Rallye possible cooling h/g problem?

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Rallye possible cooling h/g problem?
#1
Treated myself to a black rallye yesterday! 82k on the clock, has had a cam belt/water pump at 63k 2 years ago, Drove it 150 miles back no issues what so ever, couldn't run any better, sits at about 75-80 degrees? Is this right for one of these? Bit low? Anyway after driving the coolant reservoir hisses, there's a slight bit of pressurising but nothing I would say that was serious..no where near as much as my xud makes when it's hot but that's probably on its way to going pop but it works and that's that. Coolant and oil both very clean, there's probably nothing wrong with it, just me worrying! Sorry for any stupid questions etc but I've only ever owned 1 petrol car, so new to them really! Thanks, Mitch.
Blaze '6 and Blaze D-turbo!
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#2
Mine does the same sometimes and sometimes when it gets hot, it pushes coolant out of the overflow. Reason being is that the top of my radiator is damaged slightly so it wont allow the cap to lift under pressure like it should. For the sake of £6 from peugeot, i would get a new rad cap, bleed the system through completely and monitor it. 75-80 is slightly low. Have you got the fans running constantly?

Also, you will want to look at doing the belt soon if i were you. most do them at 25-30k max due to there being such a high failure rate.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#3
(27-12-2012, 10:45 PM)Niall Wrote: Mine does the same sometimes and sometimes when it gets hot, it pushes coolant out of the overflow. Reason being is that the top of my radiator is damaged slightly so it wont allow the cap to lift under pressure like it should. For the sake of £6 from peugeot, i would get a new rad cap, bleed the system through completely and monitor it. 75-80 is slightly low. Have you got the fans running constantly?

Also, you will want to look at doing the belt soon if i were you. most do them at 25-30k max due to there being such a high failure rate.

If that's the case I'll do the belt before I get it on the road, can't get insured on it until April anyway, I'll try bleeding it tomorrow if I get time, see if there's any air in there, ill order up a new cap as well if there that cheap, could I try the one off the d turbo? And I havnt noticed but I'm pretty sure I havnt heard the fans on at all, again I will check tomorrow if I can get round to it!
Blaze '6 and Blaze D-turbo!
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#4
im pretty sure the d turbo ones are a different design so dont think so mate.
If your going to bleed it, if you can afford it, get a bottle of coolant and a thermostat (£4 ish) and bung that in. That will more than likely be why its running slightly cold.
But then again, if your going to do the belt, you will want to do the waterpump at the same time which means new coolant anyway so you could wait and do it all at once. All adds up unfortunately Sad
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#5
(27-12-2012, 11:11 PM)Niall Wrote: im pretty sure the d turbo ones are a different design so dont think so mate.
If your going to bleed it, if you can afford it, get a bottle of coolant and a thermostat (£4 ish) and bung that in. That will more than likely be why its running slightly cold.
But then again, if your going to do the belt, you will want to do the waterpump at the same time which means new coolant anyway so you could wait and do it all at once. All adds up unfortunately Sad

I work at a garage so I can do all things like that/get parts etc never really do much work on petrols, pretty much all diesels, just seemed strange how it was hissing and I thought you'd be the guys to ask! I'll order up a stat tomorrow and will hopefully get around to doing it Saturday afternoon, plenty of others things to be getting on with as well, all needs to go back to standard I reckon, I'll keep you updated! Smile
Blaze '6 and Blaze D-turbo!
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#6
duff rad cap??

if the system is losing pressure then it wont get to optimum temperature
Wishes for more power...
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#7
(27-12-2012, 11:25 PM)Piggy1987 Wrote: duff rad cap??

if the system is losing pressure then it wont get to optimum temperature

Wish i had suggested that!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#8
sorry mate...tired...missed that bit....I agree with you in that case Wink
Wishes for more power...
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#9
New thermostat, new rad cap, will be all good....

Common items really, don't worry about the pressure, it's perfectly normal to have a bit of pressure in there...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#10
Sorry it's been a while but recently moved house and still no Internet! On further inspection there is very minimal antifreeze in the system if none at all, I've drained it all out tonight an refilled it with fresh antifreeze and bled it all through, once bled I held it at 3k revs for a while and it doesn't appear to be pressurising or anything! Temp stays bang on 80 degrees now, heaters is very warm, coolant coming out of all three bleed screws etc etc, could it be possible that the system wasn't bled properly before? Good job I checked the antifreeze strength as its already frozen tonight! I'll get the new cap any way as the current one doesn't look the best! Cheers guys! Big Grin
Blaze '6 and Blaze D-turbo!
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#11
Problem is if the pressure doesn't go away after a few days of being sat and let to cool down (or overnight).

If there's excess pressure in there the next morning, the HG has gone...

JP
JP
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