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S16 won't start
#1
Hello guys,

So, not so funny story... (not an April fools joke).

After I toke the dash out, I've removed the aftermarket alarm which was already cut off, and re-doo all the wiring.

Now the car doesn't start, I don't have 12v on the pump, it doesn't prime.

The car starts with some brake cleaner, without issues. I have a keypad and I guess an unlocked ECU, as the keypad always shows a green light.

I can ear the relay behind the ECU clicking as I'm turning the key. I've also bridged the pins 8 and 5, It doesn't prime either.

What seems to be the issue? I'm better off doing some wiring from the pump to some wire that has 12v as I turn the ignition?

The S16 doesn't have an inertia switch right?

Thank you, stay safe !
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#2
temporarily put 12v across the pump and see if it'll start.

immobiliser or any inertia cut off switch would kill the ignition as well so it wouldn't even offer to start if they were your problems. that from what I can remember anyway
A moments silence please, for our brothers in the NAD-zone.
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#3
What year is your car?

I've got a feeling you got the info about bridging pins 5&8 comes from the 306GTi6 forums and I think the pin layout was different on the S16's. You possibly need to bridge pins 9&11 to test the pump but I can't know for sure without knowing the year of your car.
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#4
(02-04-2020, 03:51 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: What year is your car?

I've got a feeling you got the info about bridging pins 5&8 comes from the 306GTi6 forums and I think the pin layout was different on the S16's. You possibly need to bridge pins 9&11 to test the pump but I can't know for sure without knowing the year of your car.


Mine is from 1994

(02-04-2020, 11:50 AM)Martin306 Wrote: temporarily put 12v across the pump and see if it'll start.

immobiliser or any inertia cut off switch would kill the ignition as well so it wouldn't even offer to start if they were your problems. that from what I can remember anyway

That's my thought exactly. I guess if it was the immobilizer it shouldn't even start with some brake cleaner inside the manifold.
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#5
If you're getting spark it means the side of the relay that powers the fuel pump is good as it also provides power to the ignition coils.

You haven't mentioned that you've checked you have power on both sides of the relevant fuse (F35). After that I'd check the wiring integrity between the pump & the plug for the relay.

If you decide to hot wire the pump don't forget to include an inline fuse (10amp).

I've PM'd you btw.
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#6
(02-04-2020, 04:43 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: If you're getting spark it means the side of the relay that powers the fuel pump is good as it also provides power to the ignition coils.

You haven't mentioned that you've checked you have power on both sides of the relevant fuse (F35). After that I'd check the wiring integrity between the pump & the plug for the relay.

If you decide to hot wire the pump don't forget to include an inline fuse (10amp).

I've PM'd you btw.

I see, the F35 is the one on the engine bay?

I've checked all that was inside of the engine bay, I believe that I have 3

I do have a 10amp fuse with the connections made some were. I'll try to fix it with the original wiring first.
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#7
Yep, F35 is in the engine bay.

I forgot to say that according to the wiring diagram from Autodata you don't have an inertia fuel cut-off switch.
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#8
(02-04-2020, 05:43 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: Yep, F35 is in the engine bay.

I forgot to say that according to the wiring diagram from Autodata you don't have an inertia fuel cut-off switch.

Thank you for the help, I found the problem. It was me...

The connectors below the glove box weren't connected properly.... I have a plug that doesn't connect well, something is broken of...

I guess I'll not do the same mistake again ...

Sorry

Stay safe
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#9
Hi mate. No worries. Am just happy you got it sorted!
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