306 estate engine swap

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306 estate engine swap
#1
Not sure how busy this forum is any more, I know most forums have taken a hit last few years but I'm mostly posting this to keep a track of my own progress.

Not much to the story currently, bought my 306 5 years ago and the gearbox failed around 2 and a half years ago. Since then it's been sat doing nothing while life got in the way. I bought Piggys XUD motor he had for sale and I will be using that as a replacement instead of just replacing the gearbox. With any luck I will make some progress this year, already sorted all the suspension and brakes out but I might change the rear beam to a xsara VTS or similar at some point but generally I'm happy with handling and brakes.

Anyway this is how it sits currently, want it to look rough on the outside so I'm not tidying the exterior up apart from the roof rails. I'd like to get them tidied up and painted black.

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Engine waiting to be put in
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#2
The forum really isn't busy at all these days. It's always good to hear from someone out there who has kept their 306 & still has plans for it. I've still got 3! One is still a daily, but getting shabbier by the day. The others are in varying states states of restoration. When I get the time to work on them again I'll try to post some progress up on here. Cheers!
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#3
(13-03-2020, 03:31 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: The forum really isn't busy at all these days. It's always good to hear from someone out there who has kept their 306 & still has plans for it. I've still got 3! One is still a daily, but getting shabbier by the day. The others are in varying states states of restoration. When I get the time to work on them again I'll try to post some progress up on here. Cheers!

Yeah I love my wee pug so going to do my best to get it on the road again. Unfortunately I'll need to do it outside so will depend on weather, I know it doesn't take too long to get engine out and the new one in place so just need to get on with it when I get a chance. Also found an electric rear window kit in the boot that I totally forgot I bought so need to fit that nd have solid rear mounts to get fitted aswell.

I think I may have jumped the gun posting this thread, doubt I'll get much time on the pug until I get another project painted but hoping to get to it this year.

Trial fitted a wheel that I've got a set of, have had them lying around for years with nothing to fit them too. Fancied seeing what they look like on the pug.

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Will more then likely stick with the 205 gti wheels tho.
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#4
Instead of doing anything productive I washed my seats. To be fair, the interior is rank at the minute from storage so needs done.

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#5
They look much better! Sometimes you just want an easy win n the weather's perfect at the moment for that kind of job.
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#6
Keep the original seats. I havent seen many like that before! Big Grin
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#7
Can't believe where the time has went, car has sat untouched till last weekend but I've made a start with stripping it down. No idea when I'll get time to carry on with it and I've considered selling it to free up time for other things but I'm hoping that it will be my daily again once it's done so just going to plutter along with it and hopefully make progress.

There's signs of rot upfront now but won't know the extent till engine and everything is out and I can wirewheel everything. I'm wanting practice with making panels anyway so this would be good for that atleast lol.

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Does anyone know if this panel can still be bought from Peugeot and how much it would be? Not looking to buy till I need it but would be good to know price the now.

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#8
Cool, another Estate build! Keep posting the progress, maybe it will attract some attention back to the forum. Otherwise it's indeed a good build log for yourself. Love the seats by-the-way! Mine now is full leather but I would have those any day.
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#9
I doubt the slam panel is still available but I might be wrong. It looks like it would clean up OK & it wouldn't be difficult to repair any pin holes in it ....good welding practice for you!

I appreciate the difficulty btw in trying to find the time to keep these projects moving forward.

Well if Peugeot don't supply the panels any longer (but give them a call to check) then eBay can.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=p...4084.l1313
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#10
Over the weekend I managed to pull the motor, wasn't too bad considering how rusty most of the bolts were but no real dramas. Not sure when I'll get a chance to remove the other bits to allow me to start taking the engine bay back to bare metal. Will probably be next year now but might wire wheel the worst bits so i can fire some hammerite over it to give it a wee bit of protection.

When I do it properly I'll be using a epoxy primer and possibly bed liner paint to try and stop it from rusting again. Would like to get a shot blast cabinet and equipment to do the suspension parts as I've always wanted one. Will depend on what money I have ofcourse, it's getting pretty expensive to live at the moment so might not be an option.

Yeah seats will be staying, do love them. If I came across another set in better condition I would pick them up but seems unlikely.

Front slam panel is in ok condition. I think theres only surface rust, just a few bolts have snapped off and it would have saved me from fixing it. What I will probably end up doing it grinding the bolts off and drilling it out and using stainless rivnuts and hardware then I won't need to worry about corrosion again.

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#11
Couple of weeks ago I decided to poke a rusty bit on my daily and lets just say, it doesn't make much sense in trying to save it so I'm kind of left without a car the now. Well one I can use for work and what not. Don't really have any money to my name and there arn't any cheap run arounds for sale any more so decided this might give me the boot up my arse to get the pug finished. Other things have taken my time so hadn't really touched it from last Sep. The missus did say I should just scrap this at the same time I scrap the daily but I shut her down pretty quicky, not even sure why I'm determined to get it back on the road but I've been working on it as much as I can over the last couple of weeks.

So I removed the rest of the bits in the engine bay that I wanted to remove and got the subframe out. I took the subframe to work to try and seam weld it with the stick but I didn't do to well. Hopefully what I've done will strengthen it a bit. Was hoping to find a xsara VTS steering rack to replace mine while it's out but not been able to find any for sale so will clean up the one I have. I've been wire brushing the engine bay, then using some rust remover gel then painting it, started with hammarite smooth red but changed my mind and going over it in black. Thankfully the engine mount hasn't cracked or anything, I've seen that's an issue but mine looks good. Not sure if it's worthwhile welding in strengthening plates the now or not just to make sure it doesn't in the future?

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Then while reading up on other peoples projects I saw that a fair few people have issues with the rear left arch, for some reason I thought my pug would be different but alas it was not the case.

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Started cutting

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Today I started cutting more of the rust out but then decided to tackle the rear underside whilst the weather is good. Removed the towbar. Got the arch liners and rear bumper off and in the process discovered more rust. So started cutting these bits out as well. I have plans on how I'm going to do the welding and might try relocating the battery into where the storage container goes but will see what I can do.

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And then finally today I removed the rear beam, thinking I'll just get a reburbed unit from imaxle. Don't think there's anything wrong with my beam to be fair but it looks scabby and I want it to look nice when I'm done and this would save me some time. But I'd also like to fit a hybrid ARB which is the same price as the refurbed beam pretty much (both around £185). Do I try and clean up my one and get the arb now or get a refurbed unit then replace the arb in the future? I'm going to stick with the drum axle cos I can't find any disc ones for sale and they'd prob need sent away to get cleaned up anyway.

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Bought some goodies for the car, looking forward to them coming. Trying to hunt down a standard tape player for the car as well, was going to see if it was possible to fit a bluetooth module into it so that I could still stream music from phone but would look original from the outside. Also heavily considering fitting stick on wood panels for the dash to really make it feel like a grandad car.
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#12
Some good work going on there. The engine bay looks ready to go. The rear arch isn't a surprise but looks like it's totally repairable (given the time & skills). Luckily the more complex pressed areas of bodywork have been spared. As for the rear beam, that's a difficult one. While the beam is off I wouldn't personally consider going down the route of a hybrid arb without stripping down the rest of the axle to check the bearings were OK. IMaxles haven't got the best rep. Historically some people have accused them of cutting corners but it's not a massive surprise when they charge <£200 for a reconditioned beam ...whereas one from Stef's Axles (done properly & would probably last 10 years) would cost at least £400-£500. If you just want to get the car back on the road then maybe one from IMaxles is the right choice & maybe would last a couple of years. On the other hand it might be a pile of poo out of the box. I effectively got 3 years out of a recon beam from CarParts4Less. It was probably sourced from IMaxles tbh. Was maybe just lucky?
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#13
When I got up a couple of days ago I stripped the rest of the extra stuff on the beam that I would need to keep and realised that I'd basically just be paying a couple of hundred notes just for a nice shiny beam. I've heard that they are hit or miss so I think my plan is just just give it a wire brush and a paint and then keep an eye out for another beam for rebuild. My beam appears ok with no sagging and I can't get the abs sensors off so not going the refurbed unit route.

I need to buy more bits for the pug and I was going to get the stuff off spoox (but have heard they arn't great either) as they've got the bits I'm after so was going to buy a hybrid arb at same time. Even if it doesn't get fitted the now, I wouldn't mind having it as I couldn't see them for sale anywhere else?

As far as progress goes, the chassis rail that goes across the boot had some rust holes after wire brushing and instead of trying to patch them. I've drilled out the welds and will make a new piece to go in. There are also two spots close to the beam mounts that need welded up. Plan is to do all the welding in one go so hopefully get a chance next week. Ordered lanoguard to coat the boot floor in and whatever else that isn't smothered in seam sealer so will see what that's like. Still got loads more wire brushing but here's how it was

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And here's how it looks currently. Doesn't look much different but have taken a fair bit of crust off.

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Attempted to recover one of my door cards as all the fabric is hanging off them. Ran into a bit of an issue which is ok because the fabric reminds me too much of a golf so I'm going to order a different fabric like a houndtooth or something.

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Received new boot carpet in the mail the day, also got a parcel shelf cover as mine never came with one and a rear right light as my one has always had a crack in it. Annoyingly the light I got has very minor damage but it's not cracked atleast.

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#14
Working next few days so not really getting much done to pug but trying to do a little everyday. Painted more of engine bay, noticed a couple of areas I missed that I need to wire brush and rust treat and never bothered doing the hard to reach areas. So will get them the next time. Not painting any more of the engine bay after this so if I miss stuff I miss stuff.

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This piece was fubar'd when I removed the spare wheel tray so remade it with a spare bit of stainless I had lying around. Didn't have an aluminum to hand.

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#15
I've just been cleaning up the underside of one of my 306's. It's a job which has been on hold for about 2 years for one reason or another. The underside isn't really that bad, and the P/S arch only has a couple of small areas of corrosion (literally just a few square inches). The only other problem is the bump stop mounts, one of which is rusted through. Apart from that there was just some light surface rust. It really is nothing compared to yours but I guess you guys get a lot more salt on your roads than we do down South. You don't seem the least bit intimidated by the task ahead so all credit to you.

Rear bump stops (306oc.co.uk)

I started to try to cut out the really corroded bumpstop with the intention of remaking one but quickly gave up. I I'm just going to try to reinforce it with some patches.

I really should have been taking some pictures as I went. I'll try to take some showing the progress over the next few weeks & get them posted up here. Cheers & good luck with yours.
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#16
I didn't realise the rear bump stops were also an issue, I was just going to leave them on but after your comment I went out and took the rubbers off. Managed to remove the cup on the right side but the bolt broke so I need to drill that out. Thankfully the right side one looks not too bad but haven't managed to unbolt the left side yet. Not sure why it's so bad to be honest, it probably doesn't help it's sat doing nothing for the last few years just getting crustier and crustier. Yes mate, upload some pics. I'm not much of a poster but I do lurk the forum fairly frequently reading threads so might be others reading these forums as well.

Anyway, today was my first day off. So the first thing I did was remove all the crap out the back of the boot. There was loads of tools and other junk that had piled up and it had started to bug me so emptied it out then remove the trim pieces on the right side and found some more rust Angry and also removed the headliner so didn't need to worry about sparks burning holes into it. Gave it a hoover then put my welding gear in, started doing a bit of welding. Didn't want to annoy the neighbours with welding/grinding/banging noises so this is as far as I got, obv still needs finishing off then smooth it down a bit.

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Started painting the front subframe, I attempted to seam weld it but even using a stick welder I struggled with it. Probs on me tho as I've not had much practice with the stick. Gave up but did a bit so might be a bit stiffer.

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#17
I nabbed this table from work before it was put in the bin, didn't really have any plans for it but seemed too good to scrap. Makes an excellent make shift fabrication table.

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Patched the holes near where the subframe mounts to on both sides. Yes it looks like shit under the seam sealer but it will do the job, she's never going to be a show pony.

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Painted other side of subframe.

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Painted the steering rack and inner trackrods. The ram had two crusty/rusty bits on it, which I'm a little concerned about as don't want it to split and piss oil everywhere but I'll see how it goes. The bag they wrap them in is ripped to bits so will need to either wrap it in a new bag or try and find a gaiter that fits over it.

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Started to box in the rear arch. Obv I'm not trying to put it back to original spec as I thought it was a bit odd how far the arch goes up into the body. Loads of space for the wheel to travel, the only issue might be where the seat belt anchor is supposed to go but will cross that bridge when I get there.

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#18
Couldn't get much done yesterday due to heavy rain but today got the front carpet out.

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Don't have the money the now but thinking about getting my wheel retrimmed. I want to keep the steering wheel the standard one but it is starting to show it's age. Wouldn't mind getting it redone in leather with the top bit done in the same colours as my seats.

So maybe like this?
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Rough cut the potential new exhaust pipe, will be getting a sports cat and silencer to go in but waiting for engine in and running before buying those bits.

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More paint, trying to get to the point I can refit the front subframe so that I can get the engine in.

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#19
Wow, that fabrication table looks mint. Definitely worth nabbing!

Good to see you're making progress. Which seam sealer are you using? Bilt Hamber stuff?
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#20
Yeah mega impressed with the bilt hamber stuff, got the gel that you're supposed to submerge stuff in but have just been brushing it on after wire brushing and really does a good job of cleaning up the metal. Running low so going to have to get more but their converter and seam sealer is lasting well.

It might end up being a permenent workbench, was planning on just using it as an outdoor table if we ever get a nice bbq haha. Also was lucky enough to get a stainless sink off work that they were about to chuck out. Not got it plumbed in yet but it's nice and big so going to try hydrodipping rims in it as some point.

No progress today but received a goodie in the post, hopefully more to come.

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#21
The inner and out tie rod kit I bought came with these god awful universal gaiters so bought some proper ones and replaced all the gaiters on the rack. I've used one of the universal ones to cover the power steering ram but it's touching the middle gaiter so that might be an issue. I'm going to fit it and see what it looks like when the rack is moving before deciding what to do. Also as effident in pics I've purchased a satchshift kit, not sure how bad of an idea that is as it's going to take extra time to fit but the only chance I've got is now.

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If weather is nice this weekend I'm hoping to get the engine in but that depends on weather and satchshift.
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#22
I have to be honest that I ran one of my cars for close to 4 years with the steering ram uncovered. It didn't seem to suffer any ill-effects. As long as the seals on it were in good condition I think it would be OK. I didn't overly worry about it. Let's face it, there are lots of applications where hydraulic rams / stanchions are are left exposed. I think it would possibly be worse for some kind of ill-fitting gator to filled with crud and be rubbing against the ram?

Btw, this is turning in to a full-on resto project ....not just a case of "I'm going to bung another engine in the car to get it back on the road"! Good work & thanks again for sharing.
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#23
Once the steering rack is connected to the wheel I'll get my partner to spin it and I'll watch the movement of the gaiters. I'm not too concerned about crud getting it so much, as it is cable tied tightly but don't want it destroying the gaiter on the actual steering rack. If it looks like it's going to cause issues I'll cut it off and do without. Yeah it's grown arms and legs, it will be the best condition car I own if I get it finished lol but think the reason is I was hoping to get a brand new car in the near future but with the cost of living going through the roof I've patched that idea off so wanting to make this as nice as a new car. But money is getting tight so I might need to cut back on a few things until next year.

Managed some good progress on Friday, got the subframe bolted up and got the satchshift mounted so I could see how it would look then it was getting late so packed up. This morn I drilled the hole in the bulkhead for it but did a pretty crap job, should not have bothered with the template and just used a rule or straight edge. Too late to worry about it now, I'll make a plate to cover the hole I've created because the one that comes with the kit isn't big enough now lol.

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Hole Angry

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The sound deadening on the drivers side is soaked through so has led to some rust, not sure why it's so wet so will need to investigate.

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And managed to break this while I was taking the carpet out so need to find a replacement or maybe try and 3d print it. Think it's for the fuel flap release but it's been that long I can't remember Rofl

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#24
Frustrating when stuff like that breaks. Yes, I think it's the fuel flap release. Find a way to fix the handle on with a pan head screw maybe?

My guess would be water getting in to the footwell from the door. Once the seals over the cutouts on the internal skin have been disturbed it seems really difficult to get the door to seal again properly (esp around the door speaker). Have tried several ways to crack the problem but have yet to fully succeed.
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#25
It looks fairly simple so will try designing and printing a new one, I'd imagine I'll be able to get my hands on one off a breaker if absolutely necessary. Was just being heavy handed with the carpet so it was my own fault.

Struggled the day with motivation so didn't really do anything to the pug during the day. Bought a tyre machine last year as I hate going to get my tyres changed so ended up putting new tyres on my girl's car, so while it was out I whipped the old tyres off the speedline alloys and the other alloys I have for it. Still unsure on what route I'm going to go with the wheels but as that's pretty much the last thing I need to do I don't need to make a decision yet lol.

To answer a question I've not seen anyone ask themselves, can you fit the centre console back in with a satchift? The answer is maybe, certainly with enough cutting haha. Looks like it shouldn't be too big of a bother from here.

Couldn't help myself from putting the seat in just to get an idea how it will look and feel.

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I'll check the seal next time it rains, hopefully nothing major to sort. It's sat outside the last 3 years so hopefully just got damp somehow and it's just been absorbed by the foam. Didn't notice the carpet being damp. I've treated that area and just need to spray some paint over the top to seal it.
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#26
Decided to take a break from the engine bay the day. Waiting on a new mount for the wee fork that fits from subframe to bottom engine mount anyway so did more wire brushing of the boot. Welded in the new crossmember I bought and have sprayed some black anti corrosive paint on it. I've got brush on waxoyl stuff so going to cover the patch pieces in that then spray the shit out of it with the lanoguard stuff and fingers crossed it will stay looking not bad.

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#27
Got my stuff from baker bm, 100 quid doesn't get you a lot these day. Some clips, an uprated mount and stainless cups for the rear bumpstops.

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Done some more welding for the arch, shape is pretty close to what it was originally. Still a long way off but nice to see it coming together. Welded in a piece of 2mm plate for the seat belt anchor that I'll tap to the right size but will probs also use a nut just to be sure.

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#28
If I had left that panel the way it was and tried to work around it, it would have been a major pain in the arse so instead of faffing around I just cut the bits getting in the way off and started cutting plates to weld in. I get frustrated with welding extremely quickly, I just want to blitz it all so I can start putting the interior back in cos I'm excited about the new boot carpet and parcel shelf cover lol but I'm done for today.

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Weather forecast is to rain so bought a cheap gazebo off ebay, need to strengthen it so I can keep it up until the pug is finished. Or until strong wind is forecast.

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#29
Been working but have tried to do bits and bobs. Rear arch is almost done, one more small piece and it will be sorted finally. Getting a bit bored of working on it the now to be honest. Started to run out of steam but need to suck it up so I can get cracked on.

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#30
Have been away, otherwise would have commented earlier. Well done fella. You've made some cracking progress there, & made a really nice job of that wheel arch. Seriously, looks really good. Trust me, I know how long doing even a small patch takes so I recognise how much effort you've put in. I recon that's the worst of it & the light is visible at the end of the tunnel! Cheers
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