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DeeC’s 306 VNT Turbo Build / Show Car Project
#1
New to on here guys so here goes lol, have owned the little yock just over 4 years now, but finally have got myself together and have started making some progress in tearing the car apart!

First my aim is to have a the vnt setup, gearbox mounted and the rest of the engine work carried out and finished before I start any sort of body work / paint work! The turbo I have choose is a 2.5 Nissan pathfinder turbo, GT2056V, which will require some fabbing work for pipe work as the cold air inlets just ain’t the standard hose and clamp type!

Hoping to have the manifold made up in the next few days, so I can figure out what way the turbo’s is going to be sitting exactly!

I have bought a head gasket kit, as I will be sending the head away to be skimmed, then bolted down with some fresh arp’s, does anyone have the code to the ones used? I cant seem to find it anywhere!

So far the car already has;
R70 pump
076 injectors
S13 FMIC
Battery relocated
I have the 1800 1.6 fuel rail sensor here, never fitted it as it needs mapping in, and for the sake of that I would rather wait until I have it all finished at once!

Some pics of her in her own flesh through its times lol!

Engine is currently out thank god, not as bad as you think, easy enough gotten out!

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#2
So managed to get the manifold made up last night, only tacked for now, Ill be finishing it off tonight!

Hopefully the positioning of the turbo will be okay, might have to clock it a little for the oil drain to be more vertical!

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#3
Nice work there ! It's ok to use the original manifold ?
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#4
Ive seen someone on here has used the original manifold before and has just rerouted the piping to suit the turbo, and apparently works spot on!


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(31-01-2020, 11:37 AM)Pingaz Wrote: Nice work there ! It's ok to use the original manifold ?


Ive seen someone on here has used the original manifold before and has just rerouted the piping to suit the turbo, and apparently works spot on!


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#5
Welcome to the club mate. Great to see someone starting a bit of a project thread on here ...hasn't been one in a while!
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#6
Got the the rest of the welding finished tonight!

[Image: 862af1f01159966d685ab5be0ed71ae1.jpg]


A wee taster of how its going to be looking in there vvvv

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(31-01-2020, 07:24 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: Welcome to the club mate. Great to see someone starting a bit of a project thread on here ...hasn't been one in a while!


Thanks man, yeah everything Ive read up on was way dated!


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#7
Got some small things done tonight:

Inlet elbow egr hole blanked off
[Image: 8c586ce6794fc07735ec3b2756788e7c.jpg]

Loom stripped off
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Dont know what’s happened here, had to take ecu etc out along with the engine, everything’s taped up all roads, looks a right mess
[Image: da38ce06a5471a5c4eb2c4d7dd722984.jpg]

Some fresh braided 10mm ID fuel lines fitted
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Next steps will be giving the engine a good degreasing and clean! So I can start replacing and painting as I go!


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#8
The electrics / electronics side of stuff always feels like a bit of a dark art! You seem to have some good skills so am sure you'll work it all out.  Itwasntme
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#9
(02-02-2020, 07:08 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: The electrics / electronics side of stuff always feels like a bit of a dark art! You seem to have some good skills so am sure you'll work it all out.  Itwasntme


Just when you look at that you think f***.. oh well Ill get working on it at some stage tho!


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#10
So got the engine prepared for degreasing, using gunk!

Some before pictures of the dirty lump
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First blast of gunk, used a spray bottle to apply the gunk, then used a paint brush to loosen up the tougher grease! Followed by a light power wash from distance and finally dried by air line!

Some afters.. we’re getting there! Will need a second dose to remove some bits that wasn’t removed, should be like a new pin then I wish...

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#11
(03-02-2020, 01:39 AM)darrencurry0808 Wrote:
(02-02-2020, 07:08 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: The electrics / electronics side of stuff always feels like a bit of a dark art! You seem to have some good skills so am sure you'll work it all out.  Itwasntme


Just when you look at that you think f***.. oh well Ill get working on it at some stage tho!


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Looks like you labelled most of it ...a good piece of planning that you'll thank yourself for!
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#12
(03-02-2020, 07:17 PM)Mighty306 Wrote:
(03-02-2020, 01:39 AM)darrencurry0808 Wrote:
(02-02-2020, 07:08 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: The electrics / electronics side of stuff always feels like a bit of a dark art! You seem to have some good skills so am sure you'll work it all out.  Itwasntme


Just when you look at that you think f***.. oh well Ill get working on it at some stage tho!


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Looks like you labelled most of it ...a good piece of planning that you'll thank yourself for!

Yeah for its my first time having the engine out and stripped etc, so was better keeping myself right to make life a little easier lol


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#13
Some stripping done today, god what a mess of parts

[Image: a71ad6fcdd8a9b0a687972d903074a98.jpg]

Managed to even get the head off tonight, hopefully get it sent away for skimming this weekend! I take it I will need to remove the valves prior to skimming? Or is there a way around it? Taking everything out looks a right job!

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Btw, any help on what I should be looking for or checking out whilst everything is apart would be appreciated so feel free too let me know as this is my first time opening up an engine and Im not just sure of what I should be looking for exactly!

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The plans now whilst the head is off, will be painting the block/gearbox etc! Then when I have the head back and fitted with new gasket, Ill be starting to rebuild the engine back up, lots and lots of cleaning parts/spraying will be done to make this bay look as fresh as possible!

Was going to go for silver gearbox/flywheel housing, black metallic block and stock silver cylinder head, plain and simple does it!

Purchase list;

Brake pipe and fittings for ABS removal

12mm fuel hose to replace all lines from tank to bay
( Not sure if this has been proven to make a difference but f*ck it, whats there to loose!)_____

350 LPH lift pump to replace the stock one

3 pod pillar gauge holder

Oil temp gauge

EXT temp gauge

EXT pressure gauge

Black exhaust heat wrap

Holts fire-gum paste

Black metallic engine paint

13 Row oil cooler and sandwich plate

Original oil and water feed flanges for the exact turbo as couldn’t find any new remakes

Head gasket kit

Turbo gasket kit

Red Billet adjustable waste gate actuator

Next on the list is engine mounts, oil feed/drain and water lines, gonna hang off the forking out for a week or two now, get some funds gathered up for another order!

Enjoying everything so far, exciting stuff!
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#14
Thats the gearbox and block painted now, damn the difference a few coats of paint can make

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Removed camshaft and rocker arms tonight, so can be taken to the engineering co monday to be skimmed
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#15
Shiny bits ....nice Smile. Keep up the good work.
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#16
(09-02-2020, 11:29 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Shiny bits ....nice Smile. Keep up the good work.


Very good work as said nice to see recent progress blog


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#17
(13-02-2020, 10:50 PM)Dturboleeds Wrote:
(09-02-2020, 11:29 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Shiny bits ....nice Smile. Keep up the good work.


Very good work as said nice to see recent progress blog


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Thanks guys!

Didn’t get a while pile done this week;

Got the head back from the machinists
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Oil cooler sandwich plate fitted[Image: 267924df37ae65e3f3c4efccfea9b13b.jpg]

And Ive started cleaning up some engine parts with my new air die grinder! Wire wheel galore

Fuel filter mount
Top engine mount
Inlet elbow
Lower gearbox mount

Very happy with the results,
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Going to be working on some porting to the head, manifold and inlet manifold this upcoming week!


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#18
Not much progress this week again as Ive been working on the head and with me only getting a couple hours each night its gonna take quite a while to do it right

Have opened up the exhaust ports to match the gasket and widened the inners, measuring each one with a chopped piece of coat hanger to insure they’re flowing the same amount of air!

Still have 3 of the inlet ports to do, then will move on to the valve bowls, to smoothen out any restrictions that may reduce flow!

I will get all the rough work out of the way first then will work on smoothing and polishing the ports / valve bowls!

Ive put around 15 hours work into the head already and I can see there being another 10 hours working in it at least! Not an easy task but slow and steady wins the race!

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Think I may have found an alternative upgraded head stud kit for the HDI owners! These are 1.5 thread pitch at the block with 40mm of thread and 1.25 at the nut area with 25mm of thread, they are 150mm in total length leaving 20mm extra for the nut to fasten on too! Heres the link if anyone wants to look into them, I have ordered a set to see what they are like!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2330460535
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#19
Looking good! Be careful opening up ports on HDi cylinder heads, they're very sensitive to changes in the port as to the airspeed and thus swirl they generate, they flow pretty well as it is and you're likely to end up with a great flowing cylinder head that generates no swirl and thus really crappy combustion, particularly as they're an 8v head, the 16vs have much better swirl that's not as easy to cock up due to having one helical and one tangential port. Don't go mental with them as it will just end up running like shit instead (ask me how I know).

How you planning on controlling the turbo?
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#20
(20-02-2020, 01:02 PM)Ruan Wrote: Looking good! Be careful opening up ports on HDi cylinder heads, they're very sensitive to changes in the port as to the airspeed and thus swirl they generate, they flow pretty well as it is and you're likely to end up with a great flowing cylinder head that generates no swirl and thus really crappy combustion, particularly as they're an 8v head, the 16vs have much better swirl that's not as easy to cock up due to having one helical and one tangential port. Don't go mental with them as it will just end up running like shit instead (ask me how I know).

How you planning on controlling the turbo?


Been there done that got the t shirt??? lol.. Ill keep that in mind thanks for the info man, that’s something I didn’t know to watch out for!!

Was planning to use a mbc, although ecu controlled seems to be the better option, Im not just that well educated on the whole setup of it being controlled by the ecu nor whats needed etc!


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#21
Studs have arrived from Poland!

Seem to be bang on perfect! They just need to be left 2/3mm from fully screwed position on the block, this leaves it so that when the nut is fixed it runs flush with the studs itself!

Should do well, hdi studs sourced I guess

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#22
So thats the mani and inlet both gasket matched, polished and wire wheeled! Just have the head to smoothen out and polish then it will be time to get the engine built back up!

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#23
The head is now fully ported/polished and ready for reassembling, never again..!!
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Valve stem seals pulled out and replaced
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Valves de-carbonised and lapped, ready for springs to be refitted tomorrow! Really looking forward to building everything back up so I can start attacking the engine bay then
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#24
Nice to see you're maintaining your momentum with this. It certainly is a lot of work! Cheers for the updates. Smile
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#25
(03-03-2020, 07:14 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Nice to see you're maintaining your momentum with this. It certainly is a lot of work! Cheers for the updates. Smile


Yeah its hard getting the time in, but Im getting on pretty well so far for only being able to get out at night for a few hours! No worries, my pleasure


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#26
Been a while since I’ve posted, but I’ve still been busy!

Update on the progress since: Rebuilding the head

Valve springs reinstalled
Rockers refitted
Camshaft

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I then prepared the block with my new stud kit, I fitted the studs using loctite making sure to have the head fitted and full torqued before the loctite set.

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Head on, glow plugs back in place.

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Few bits and pieces freshened up in the process.

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Fuel pump also brought back to life.

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So I needed a new gasket for my inlet elbow, simple.

Thin piece of cardboard, hold the cardboard over the piece, tap very gently with rubber mallet, you will get something that looks like this, cut out the lines and job done! [Image: 1600bba9fc07fce78bfeb7ae22139e4a.jpg]
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Finishing my relocation manifold pipe off with some black heat wrap, sprayed with very high temp paint before hand.

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I ordered a new pug off crank pulley weighing 480g, and slightly smaller in size. Although it seems to have a smaller offset that the standard pulley, I will have to find out about ordering/making a 5mm shim to space the pulley out to allow a perfect run of the aux belt! Any help on this would be appreciated.

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Really coming together now, inlet mani and elbow fitted and looking freshhh!!! Manifold refitted with new turbo relocation pipe, bolted together with holts fire gum putty, Ive heard good reviews on this stuff, hope it lives up to its name!

The bottom engine mount even got a hit with the wheel /

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Injectors and keepers freshened and fitted with new seals!

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Fuel rail painted, and refitted with some new coloured bolts

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Starter and alternator freshened up.

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New aux (no AC) kit arrived, although it came with an AC model belt, replacement on way hopefully be here soon!

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#27
Top work


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#28
(31-03-2020, 04:43 AM)Dturboleeds Wrote: Top work


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Thanks man, appreciate it!


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#29
The offset and size of the GTI6 pulleys is different to the HDi, you'll find that the power steering pump is also different between the GTi6 and the HDi, it's because the maximum engine speed of the HDi is quite a bit lower than the GTi6. You'll find you have heavier steering in the HDi if you use the pulley from the GTi6. I'd also recommend against using a solid pulley unless you switch out the alternator to a later 206/307 HDi one with the clutched pulley (although from pics you may already have one), they are to stop the fluctuations in crank speed (because diesel) wrecking the belt and tensioner, without a damped pulley, you'll see the tensioner flapping back and forth and it'll destroy the belt pretty quick too. Just make sure you've got a clutched alternator as used on the 206/307 HDi and it fixes the problems.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#30
(06-04-2020, 11:37 AM)Ruan Wrote: The offset and size of the GTI6 pulleys is different to the HDi, you'll find that the power steering pump is also different between the GTi6 and the HDi, it's because the maximum engine speed of the HDi is quite a bit lower than the GTi6. You'll find you have heavier steering in the HDi if you use the pulley from the GTi6. I'd also recommend against using a solid pulley unless you switch out the alternator to a later 206/307 HDi one with the clutched pulley (although from pics you may already have one), they are to stop the fluctuations in crank speed (because diesel) wrecking the belt and tensioner, without a damped pulley, you'll see the tensioner flapping back and forth and it'll destroy the belt pretty quick too. Just make sure you've got a clutched alternator as used on the 206/307 HDi and it fixes the problems.


Thanks for info! How can I tell if its the clutched pulley, is there a code or anything I should be looking out for??


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