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HDi 2.0 Not starting
#1
Hi All,

First time  poster here so please be gentle!!!

My 2002 306 2.0 HDi Meridian is refusing to start.

I have reviewed some of the replies to similar posts on this forum and will continue to do so as an when I get the chance but in the meantime maybe  I can get a few brief pointers in this thread.

The last time the car ran I moved it off the drive to let the Missus past, re-parked and 2 hours later the car wouldn't start and hasn't since. Also, a few days ago it took longer to start than normal, for no apparent reason.

I can crank the engine over until the battery dies, there is fuel getting to the HP pump, I disconnected the fuel line to it to check. I don't know if the pump is producing anything on the high pressure side. How do I check?

I have checked the engine bay and driver side fuses and they all seem fine.

There is the engine warning light on the dash. I got one of those elm327? diagnostic scanner + app , a cheapo off ebay a while back and the only diagnostics I got was p0120 & p0220 relating to the Throttle Position Sensor circuit (A & B).  

I measured the voltage output from this and got ~0.45 - 3.9v on the yellow wire and half that on White (or vice versa) , 0v ish on the green, 5v on red. Another poster on this forum got the same similar values and I assume they are normal though I think a new TPS is on the cards.

Would a dodgy TPS cause this fault, I would have thought not but I don't know the mind of the ECU, perhaps it won't let me start because it's given me plenty of warning.


Could it be the immobilizer, do they go wrong often and if so can it be bypassed easily?

If any of you good people can throw me a bone I would be most grateful.

Cheers , Pete

Update: July '19. PP2000 scanner suggested FPR fault. I fitted a new fuel pressure regulator and It now start and runs fine. See comments below for more details
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#2
Can you hear the lp fuel pump prime? Is it getting voltage?

You mention fuel getting to the hp pump but not clear what you’ve done with the first component.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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#3
Hi C2K
I can hear a whirring noise coming from the rear of the car , and I am assuming, it's the fuel pump immersed in the fuel tank.
Via a filter, heater etc, fuel from the tank is presented to the High Pressure pump. I disconnected the fuel pipe input to the HP Pump, turned on the ignition and collected a stream of diesel into a container. This is why I am assuming the HP pump is at least getting a fuel supply. Whether the feed is of sufficient pressure is another matter.
I am now patiently waiting for a PP2K to arrive as I understand it gives superior diagnostic information over the generic items.
Thanks for your consideration C2K
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#4
I received the  PP2000* (see footer) and on my laptop poked around a bit and now I think I am suffering from low pressure on the common rail.

Using the live data the fuel pressure from the high pressure pump is ~55 bar. As mentioned elsewhere on this forum the ECU doesn't activate the injectors until the pressure is 110+ bar.

A far as I know this could be due to 4 or 5 things.

1. Dodgy High Pressure pump. When these things go wrong do they suddenly give up or what?

2. Dodgy Fuel Pressure Regulator on the HP pump.

Using PP2000 I did an actuator test on this and I hear a click from the solenoid near the ECO but on the pump (where the FPR live) , no click.

I had my Lad cycle the test while I listened to the regulator through a screwdriver handle (for those who don't know press screwdriver tip to FPR body , place ear on handle and listen -
transmits the sound much better). I could hear a faint 'whir ???' but no click as I would expect from what is essentially a solenoid ? - more info required here.

(When cranking the Diesel pressure regulator OCR - was up to 40% - is the regulator a solenoid off/on , or some kind of variable opening device )

3. Dodgy Fuel Pressure Sensor on the common rail feeding incorrect information to the ECU.
I am Certainly getting a reading using the P2K. I suppose if contacts are dirty a high resistance might give a false reading? I cleaned the contacts but no change.

4. Not enough fuel getting to the HP pump.
Low pressure? Check filter etc.
I am definitely getting fuel to HP pump. Surely if so I should see at least a splutter?

5. Leakage back from one or more injectors affecting rail pressure.
No Idea about this. Any thoughts?

Anything else?

I have no faults show up on PP2000 that are relevant that I know of.

Using the live data it appears I am getting a cranking speed of ~190 RPM. Is this normal? The engine cranking speed sounds normal.

One or two other readings:-

ECU is RHY BOSCH EDC15C2 ( at least this is what the diagnostics thinks , Incidentally Software would not read if the 306 is selected but will rad 306R for those familiar with the P2K
model selections)

Battery voltage 12.5 (down to 9,7 when cranking)

supply voltage to sensors ~5.01v
injector voltage 0v - (69.9v when cranking )
Diesel pressure regulator OCR - upto 40% when cranking


--

*For other newbies PP2000 is the Peugeot Planet 2000 diagnostic software and hardware interface for Peugeots (and Citreons - Lexia3) . You can get these on ebay and the like for around £40 and they should give you way more usable information than the generic OnBoardDiagnostic (OBD2) readers. They appear to be hacked versions of official software so its probably very naughty to use them. Research a bit on this forum first as they can be a bugger to install and use on your laptop if not done properly. I had problems on Win7 (in xp sp3 mode) using PP2K , wouldn't work but diagBox no problem. On XP sp3 machine no problems.
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#5
whats the battery cranking voltage anything less than 10v the ecu wont fire! try starting it on easystart if it picks up and runs it probably battery or maybe lazy starter so check your earths first including the gearbox to chassis link under the battery tray

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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#6
Hi cully , thanks for the reply.

The battery cranking voltage was < 10v last time so I recharged the battery and tried again, also I tried with a jump start.
Cranking voltage was > 10v more like 11.

I haven't tried EZ start , might be worth considering to get the revs up but as Fuel Pressure is low it does point to pump/fpr/pressure sensor.

The battle continues....
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#7
Update: A new Fuel Pressure Regulator did the trick. Started and continued running as soon as it was bolted on. That was over a month ago.
I have another intermittent problem however where the car loses the ability to rev or pull much after mid+ throttle.
New diagnostics faults suggest pressure regulator earth fault or clutch switch fault.
We'll see......
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