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We took the lad to his firms xmas bash ( his citroen was dead, but now lives ! hurray, thank the f for that more like ) and brought him home late saturday night.

About 1 miles from home, pressed the clutch pedal and BANG, the clutch pedal goes to the floor, f"£*&%*****!!!!!!!

The clutch cables gone!

Anyway we get the car home ok and park it at a slant under the car port.

Next day a quick look and yes the clutch cable has gone, or worse.

The clutch cable has been stiff since we got the car so needs a new cable anyway ?

The pedal is free and not stiff, the spring assist is free and not stiff.

The cable was ordered Monday and finally arrived yesterday afternoon.

With the wife's help ( i have trained her well and do exactly as she says ) we managed to  manouver the car into place with the aid of a winch, in the pouring rain, so the front of the car at least is under cover. What the picture doesn't show is the "river" flowing down the garden path and under the car port, the river being behind me.

The under bonnet stuff was removed last night, the easy part. The car will be up in the air this afternoon and the real fun then begins, the pedal area stuff.

I have read the haynes manual and will re read the guide on here.+

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bad luck! at least you know its the cable. Same happened to me on a 72 beetle a few weeks back. Really annoying and again fixed it in the rain :/
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(20-12-2018, 10:55 AM)Eeyore Wrote: bad luck! at least you know its the cable. Same happened to me on a 72 beetle a few weeks back. Really annoying and again fixed it in the rain :/

its your own fault;

 beetles/type2/fastbacks/411/412-------------------------all of them should be at the bottom of cars stacked in scrapyards.

worked on them at a main dealer in the 80's (yes, people really did use main dealer were I lived) soon as foreman came into canteen carrying see through wallets with jobcards in, you developed x-ray vision to see the all-silver rounded keys...…...and cried.
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Clutch cable isn't too bad on these, its easiest to lay on the floor directly under the brake booster and reach straight up.

The air con pipes are right in the way and stop you pulling the fat end of the cable out, it helps to loosen the pipes (10mm nut in drivers wheel arch) but you'll still have to manoeuvre the fat end of the cable around. Wen you put the new one in, make sure the rubber of the fat end seats properly behind the AC pipes otherwise you get an annoying noise and draught around your feet.
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The car is up in the air higher than normal to improve access, the under tray is off along with the off side front wheel and the front part of the plastics under the wheel arch. I can actually now see where the cable goes a d reach up there, well nearly. I have one last clip to undo, the wire clip and its 6mm bolt, then the clip on the gearbox that holds the cable end on/in.

The fuse lid is off and so is the heater duct. I can see the end of the clutch pedal so the hook is there and seems all ok. The pedal is free as is the now removed spring assist devise. The cable seems free also, so was wondering if a heavy duty clutch is in there??

There is some play in the shaft and using a long lever, the clutch seems heavy.

I have a new clutch kit ( luk ) and the 2 plastic shaft bearings but dont have the time at the moment to fit it as space needed for the lads car service on sunday.

wish me luck!

Its not actually the cable its self that's broken but the plastic clevis that fits on the hook.

I am fitting a first line fkc1438 which has a much more substantial plastic clevis, hoping all goers well later today.

Does anyone know if a manually adjusted cable will fit and whats the part number please??

pug 306 2 l hdi estate ph3 2000
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New cable is a front line fkc1438.

Have asked about a manually adjustable type cable but they seem not to do one.

Anyone know if a manually adjustable cable is available ???

Anyways an answer to the query of how to unadjust the cable when I have to remove it for a clutch change engine out etc..

First Line Technical Dept
11:25 AM (3 hours ago)
to me

Good morning Richard,

Re setting the cable after fitting is not the easiest thing to do but can be done by pulling inner cable completely out to it`s full length , then while keeping the cable taught pull it back through ( probably need two people ) then put the white cap back on and lock into place. Just make sure when fitting the cable for the first time not to damage the little lugs the cap locks onto.

We unfortunately only have this cable for the application not a manual adjust type.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards.

Roger Nightingale

Hoping the new cable fitting and auto adjust goes like clockwork.

I have 12T press and could make a swage block, to swage an end onto a inner cable, so may have a go at making a manual adjust cable if one is not available.

First things first, getting the pug back on the road for tomorrow.
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There wasn't a manual cable available for these. Some people have used cables designed for other cars (possibly 309/405) but they need modifying & tbh it's more hassle than it's worth. Might as well just buy another auto cable instead of buying a manual one. It is possible to reset them but is a right pain as they suggested.

Good luck! Big Grin
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OK cable fitted and not toooo much hassle once stuff is out of the way. Seems the old cable was not quite fitted on the bulkhead.

The new cable follows to old cable route and after it self adjusted, seems a little bit lighter in use. The spring assist device is off for the moment.

The pressure plate seems to "creak" a bit so may need the new clutch kit fitting soon, but ok for now.

The bite point is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from pedal full pressed down to the floor.

Road test later today.

All good. The old cable inner was a little bit stiff/draggy but the clevis end looked much weaker than the first line one. A "Dura" make  cable. Perhaps a clip was missing from the clevis as the remains seems to suggest a clip was meant to be there keeping the clevis sides from splaying, will post a pic tomorrow.


This suggests that the old cable was not fitted correctly with the inner showing some wear of the plastic coating to the inner cable.

lost the picture of the clevis, will re take and post wednesday.
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One thing to bear in mind and I think the communication you had wasn't the clearest on this, that white plastic shroud around the adjuster is there to ease fitting, it's supposed to be removed once the cable is fitted.
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    Yep, made clear by first line, and kept for the future.

See picture of the broken clevis above ,on the Dura cable. 

The centre of the clevis has 2 cut outs, for a clip to stop the clevis sides from splaying ?? Anyways, no trace of a clip found and its buggered so that's the end of that cable, for now. Its a bit stiff anyway and the inner cable plastic covering is worn thru in the area of the clevis, maybe that's why it was a bit stiff.
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There's no clip for them. The plastic is designed to be a weak point and break before anything else.
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Cool but a bit daft maybe?
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