Dr_jekyll Rebuild, why you no start?

Dr_jekyll Rebuild, why you no start?
#1
Ok. So pretty sure most people have seen the piece of shit[Image: 434b97a74f9aef204e229e73ead97e65.jpg]
Went for first start tonight and struck up 3 fault codes
[Image: 6e3c0360586f8b44cd9d2f24cf8f7112.jpg][Image: af8550778923f905d0ad182c3d56de86.jpg][Image: e4fc3846d85b45b85e03efd497abd934.jpg]
P0190 cleared after putting the original fps back in and removing the pin mod for the 1800bar fps (wires 1 & 2 swapped) the other two faults remained.

Engine light remained.

Fuel upto the injectors.

Attempted to excite the battery with a jump from a fellow hdi, car was excited but nout.

Added some brake cleaner into the inlet. Handfull of diesel knock and ran but then cut out.

Believe the engine light to be emobiliser fault but how can i prove this?

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#2
It's not that stupid crash sensor thing that trips out randomly sometimes on these cars?
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#3
(27-07-2018, 06:19 AM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: It's not that stupid crash sensor thing that trips out randomly sometimes on these cars?
Checked the inertia switch, checked all earths arr connected too

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#4
Do you know anyone with PP2K? I Think only fuel pressure, cranking speed, cam/crank synchronisation and immo probs will stop the injectors from opening. Unfortunately I don't think non specific code readers can get that kind of data. I personally wouldn't be using brake cleaner down the inlet.

Did you fit a new fuel pump? Is the intank pump buzzing away? Is the filter clean?
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#5
(27-07-2018, 08:37 AM)Uberderv Wrote: Do you know anyone with PP2K? I Think only fuel pressure, cranking speed, cam/crank synchronisation and immo probs will stop the injectors from opening. Unfortunately I don't think non specific code readers can get that kind of data. I personally wouldn't be using brake cleaner down the inlet.

Did you fit a new fuel pump? Is the intank pump buzzing away? Is the filter clean?

Unfortunately i dont. The little reader i borrowed seemed decent and pulls up live data.
Havnt tried to repostion the cam sensor yet as its on a slide mount.
Had her cranking wildly with my mates hdi jumping with a new battery.
Lift pump primes happily.
The brake cleaner was liturally just a small spray to hear it turn over, wont be doing it again.

Im wondering if this is all ecu related. The last engine burnt the loom and fuel relay out. Both have been changed but its still on the original ecu. Think im gonna bite the bullet and buy an unlocked from hdi tuning


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#6
I'd ask on here first if anyone has PP2K locally that can come and plug in. As far as I've read the EDC15C2 ECU is a pretty hardy unit so it's possible that it's fine.
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#7
Engine light will always stay on whilst the engine is stopped - until it has cam/crank sync and it's run it's post start tests and the engine is running, it'll stay on. Sounds like immobiliser to me in honesty, try and get some live data out of it and see if you're getting engine speed reported.

It won't attempt to start checking for cam/crank sync until it's happy it's got the crank signal and it can read engine speed. If you've got RPM readings in live data during cranking and it doesn't log a cam sync fault, it's got sync fine. If it's cam sync issues, you usually get a code for that pretty quickly, there's not fuel pressure faults to say that it's not making enough fuel pressure to start, worth checking in live data, but suspect it'll have it.

The inertia switch does nothing but interrupt power to the in tank pump, it won't stop the engine from starting if the in-tank pump is running.

You really need PP2k to diagnose this kinda stuff.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#8
(27-07-2018, 12:18 PM)Ruan Wrote: Engine light will always stay on whilst the engine is stopped - until it has cam/crank sync and it's run it's post start tests and the engine is running, it'll stay on. Sounds like immobiliser to me in honesty, try and get some live data out of it and see if you're getting engine speed reported.

It won't attempt to start checking for cam/crank sync until it's happy it's got the crank signal and it can read engine speed. If you've got RPM readings in live data during cranking and it doesn't log a cam sync fault, it's got sync fine. If it's cam sync issues, you usually get a code for that pretty quickly, there's not fuel pressure faults to say that it's not making enough fuel pressure to start, worth checking in live data, but suspect it'll have it.

The inertia switch does nothing but interrupt power to the in tank pump, it won't stop the engine from starting if the in-tank pump is running.

You really need PP2k to diagnose this kinda stuff.

Cheers for that Ruan, contacted a friend who's got a snap on diag machine so hoping that'll be able to read as deep as PP2K.
In haste ive already ordered an ecu from hdi_tuning as dont wanna wait around to long for it. Also want it for later on anyway.
Put the battery on charge to try help things along and she's pulling 8 amp's so may have sucked the life out of that too.

Will get the unlocked ecu on and my mate over and go from there

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#9
Make sure the calibration is for the kit you have also - don't go putting 1800bar sensors on without the map, it'll never run right.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#10
(27-07-2018, 01:34 PM)Ruan Wrote: Make sure the calibration is for the kit you have also - don't go putting 1800bar sensors on without the map, it'll never run right.
Made that mistake last night, put the stock sensor and a spare original fps lead in and the p0190 code cleared straight away and didnt come back. Was trying to jump the gun abit

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