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What Rear Brakes Do I Have
#1
Hi all

had me MOT today and failed on 3 items;

Parking Brake: efficiency below requirements
Parking Brake: brake lever has no reserve travel
Brake Pedal Spongy.

i replaced the front pads and disc in march when i first got the car and have had no leaks in the system since then (that i know of) so am assuming that bleeding should help with the spongyness.

i also replaced the seats last weekend and whilst i hand the plastic around the hand brake out i noticed the adjuster was at max so think i would be best to change the cables. 

Finally i have no service history for the car so got no clue if/when rear shoes where last done so want to replace them at the same time only problem is i've got no clue what the rear brakes are and all the parts sites give me multiple options.

anyone know what should be fitted to a 1.6 8v phase 2 hatchback? if it helps the fronts where Teves when i did them and its not got ABS. also the hand break cables, any one know the correct length ones i need?

would people advice changing the wheel cylinders at the same time?
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#2
there's two types of cable, one for drums and one for discs, and they are sided too, so you'll need a left and a right, replace the cylinders if you like, up to you Smile

there's two different shoe and cylinder setups too, if you look at the back of the drum where the cylinder joins the brake line, the bleed nipple is in a line with the brake line on one and offset on the other iirc, hope that makes sense lol
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#3
Hi Matt think I get what you mean just been out Lead in the road under the back to have a look and I'm guessing it's the type with the offset nipples looks like this under there

[Image: 953e0a4f7249c15a4782c9a96940264e.jpg]

Now just to work out which ones to buy haha


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#4
that's a 180x30mm drum and shoe.

with the round part poking through the backplate they are Bendix type with M12 union and integral pressure limiters and are handed, 20.6mm bore non abs type.

cables as mentioned are only different drum to disc for a hatchback 306.

typically brake shoes last a very very long time so I wouldn't go buying anything till you have stripped and cleaned everything, peeled back the wheel cylinder dust covers and to check for fluid under them (should be dry under there)


most common fault with them is someone assembling the shoes and not adjusting them up before taking slack out of the cables, then they never adjust properly.
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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#5
cheers welshpug. i've got a half day tomorrow so ill get then open tomorrow afternoon and check it all out. before i cna do anything thow, will i need to remove the hub nut to get the drum off? want to chekc as ill need to get a socket big enough haha
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#6
Yes hub needs to come off and it's a 32mm you'll need, buy some new nuts too as they're staked in place Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#7
Hay got the wheels off today and found this on the passenger side rear

[Image: 19e0939558bb502a016074cbb123cb27.jpg]

Cheers to welsh pug im guess this is what you mean by the dust covers. So at least I know now what was making the pedal spongy I've got a full kit on the way for whole assembly so will get down to re building the rear brakes when they get here

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#8
Got to love Drum brakes, pain in the arse those cylinders leak for a pastime when really they should last for years
Overall Road Going Production Class Winner at BARC Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb 2012, 2013 & 2014 With a class record along the way (For a while), Taking 2nd place will be Ian Redding's 306 GTi
2016 Castle Combe GT championship class winner
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