Rough running DW10

[mr_fish]

Just wondering if anyone else out has had similar issues with a rough running HDi.

The issue has been with the car for the last 5000 odd miles but its fairly intermittant. It's coming to the point of annoyance so just looking for a solution.

Drives fine under load and cruising, did 380 miles this weekend without issue apart from only when waiting in traffic for around 10 minutes the engine would not idle smoothly
at all. Ranging between 600rpm to 1200rpm this is particularly the worse I've had it and what seemed to be different was the coolant temperature was up to 90* (normally sits around the 80* mark - was hot out) The throttle becomes light for the first 10% and as if you have no feel over it, as soon as you give it around 30% on the pedal and raise the revs its fine and will hold a constant rpm.

It did it previously (months ago) when I happened to leave it ticking over for around 10 minutes, I could hear it hunting, and running rough but it never cut out. When I came to drive away, it left a chronic cloud of blue smoke but then cleared and carried on fine.

The car has been fully serviced, and the pump was swapped for a good unit from another HDi which I drove for a couple months that didn't have the hunting issue, also put a bit two stroke through and couple tanks of V power derv.

Annoyingly I could drive the car for a week and its fine, else it can play up a couple days in a row.

My guess is injectors, ideally I need to leave the motor to get up to a higher temp to see if it plays up and hook planet into it.

Just seeing if anyone else has seen or experienced anything like it before.

Cheers for reading

[Poodle]

Get pp on it and have a look at the correction values on the injectors, signal from both tps and regulator duty. Got a feeling jtaylor had a thread on this, bit cba to find it on my phone.

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Is the egr still plumbed in?

[mr_fish]

Get pp on it and have a look at the correction values on the injectors, signal from both tps and regulator duty. Got a feeling jtaylor had a thread on this, bit cba to find it on my phone.

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Is the egr still plumbed in?

Yeah planet is the key hopefully, I'll have a nose around.

EGR is gone and blanked. Though the solenoid valve is still plugged into the loom.

[darrenjlobb]

I would say either FPR or injectors or TPS

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[mr_fish]

Had a quick look at the weekend at this. Fired up planet took car for a drive to get it up to temp, left it idling, it played up a little was watching the injector flow corrections and they seem to go spaz when it does it. Anyways, it idled smooth but injector 1 and 4 always stayed around the same corrections, even after a blip up the road and back.



So changed injector 4 (nearest cambelt) and drove again, annoyingly no photo of planet. Seemed better but throttle did it funny thing of going 'light' when driving down the hill, so come back and changed number 1 (gearbox end) drove yesterday for around 100 miles round trip and behaved and didn't judder, but still a little amount of blue smoke after idling for a moment or so.

Will chuck planet back on to see what the corrections are like now, but reckon i'll end up changing the other two.

Something else i thought of would be that its upset if it was down on compression, but its only done 122k (AFAIK) and doesn't use any oil.

[Poodle]

Did you check the tps live?

[mr_fish]

Did you check the tps live?

Tested in the sense of just stationery moving the pedal and holding it at certain points, it didn't fluctuate as I thought it would, so it seemed fine.

Anyways though....I fixed it.

So as I said it still blue smoked after being left on idle for a couple of minutes, so swapped out injector 2, no change, even went back to idling funny on the test drive. So that left one injector. Pulled it out and swapped it for the last spare I had. Fired up and drove around the block and left it ticking over while I washed the car off. Planted the throttle mid way through and the exhaust was clean.

Left it idling longer and still clean after revving it up afterwards. So pretty sure to say injector number 3 (the git) was the culprit.

[BiG K]

Injector correction values are only "used" to smooth the engine idle out, the values don't get used to run the engine. Sure if one injector was showing -11mm3 for example, then it is more than likely faulty.

The best way I believe is a leak off test.

[mr_fish]

Injector correction values are only "used" to smooth the engine idle out, the values don't get used to run the engine. Sure if one injector was showing -11mm3 for example, then it is more than likely faulty.

The best way I believe is a leak off test.

Meant to of said, I did actually perform a leak off test, previously, when I had the kit accessible. Ran the car for around a minute and all injectors were about even. Was expecting one to be shafted or such like. Could of been something in the way of the electronic solenoid breaking down in the top part of the injector I suppose?

[Ruan]

Injector correction values are only "used" to smooth the engine idle out, the values don't get used to run the engine. Sure if one injector was showing -11mm3 for example, then it is more than likely faulty.

The best way I believe is a leak off test.

That's not quite correct...

The correction values are adjusted in closed loop until 2100rpm, the cylinder balancing routine goes open loop (i.e. the value generated from closed loop operation is used) until 2400rpm after which it is shut off and no correction is applied.

[DeeTurbo]

The correction values are adjusted in closed loop until 2100rpm, the cylinder balancing routine goes open loop (i.e. the value generated from closed loop operation is used) until 2400rpm after which it is shut off and no correction is applied.

Now that is interesting. I've got a weird vibration through the car at around 70mph (2.4-2.5k rpm) and I was thinking could it be the injectors being out of balance.