Electricity window problem!

[jfb]

Hi!

My passenger electric window is fixing me I think. It will wind down but not up.

I know it's not the motor cos I used a cordless drill battery to apply power both ways and it winds up and down, (that's how I got the bugger shut again!)

I've checked the switch and ordered another second hand one, still
Same prob. I have used multimeter to check power at switch (on the wires going into back of connector). Although I'm not entirely sure I did it right. I put black multimeter lead on the earth wire in plug, and then red one on wires 608 and 609 (beige and red respectively) as these appeared to be the wires going to motor according to haynes wiring diagram. Both 608 and 609 showed power when I toggled the switch. Does this mean the switch is ok and there is a wiring prob somewhere else?

Also, how do I get the rubber boot/conduit thingy off in order to check there are no damaged wires where the flex between door and body?

Thanks
J

[Toms306]

Its most likely a damaged wire in the drivers door loom. You can check continuity between passenger and drivers side switches, but tbh its quicker to just remove the rubber boot and look. You can peel it off the plug and push it back, but may need to cut it if you cant get it back far enough.

[jfb]

Ok, the wires looked ok in passenger side, though the circuit includes drivers side switches etc too doesn't it, so if that's broken then that'll need repairing!

What's best way to repair? A connector or something ? Don't feel much like attempting a loom replacement lol!

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Thanks tom!

[Toms306]

Yeah, the passenger window switch runs through the drivers one first. Does anything else in the door not work? Mirror, speaker, locking etc? If so, almost certainly a loom issue.

Repair depends how far its gone really, should just be able to solder one or two broken wires easily. Or if you're short on time a crimp works as well, I've used both in the past, but solder is obviously the right way to do it!

[jfb]

Everything else works fine! Although the passenger window switch on the drivers side doesn't work at all. I haven't had a really hard look yet, but on first inspection the wires look to be in good order, although I haven't taken boots off completely yet. Not all that keen on cutting them off if not necessary. Do you just tape up the boot again afterwards?

Thanks for your help!

[Toms306]

Yeah I just taped the boot, does make it irritatingly crunchy when opening the door though lol.

If you've got the multimeter handy, check continuity between pass and drivers switches though, that'll save the boots.

[jfb]

Hmm, yes! Not sure the multimeter wires will reach in any case!

[Toms306]

They should do, I did it myself a couple of weeks ago... Spent ages checking all the wiring and it turned out I had a faulty switch...

[jfb]

Lol! I may yet have one too! Is it possible to pull the wires out of the back of the plug that goes into the switch. It looks like spade connectors but couldn't make them budge. One of the wires has a lot of green corrosion/discolouration on it and wanted to clean it.

[Toms306]

Yeah you can but need a really thin tool to remove them, they have a small one way tab so they cant just pull out.

[jfb]

I have some tiny screwdrivers so I'll give that a shot!

[jfb]

Have tested wires on passenger side for resistance and power. Both wires: 608 beige and 609 red showed no resistance at switch connector to motor connector.

608 beige showed power leaving switch at connector and also arriving at motor connector.

609 showed power leaving the switch at connector but didn't arrive at the motor connector.

So I guess there's a break in 609 somewhere between the switch and the motor. I don't know why it didn't show any resistance though, as if there's no resistance surely the power should travel through it ok.

After looking at the wiring diagram (haynes) and the wires, I realise that the passenger switch has it's own power supply making it independent from drivers side switch. This is evident cos although drivers passenger window switch doesn't work at all, passenger switch down button works.

This means that the 608 beige wire is responsible for winding down, and 609 red is for up.

I think what I'm going to do is cut 609 about an inch up from switch and motor connectors and replace that section of wire. Might be the most direct and easy response!

[Alan_M]

Had this on my 306 1.4. Turned out to be the drivers window switch faulty. Had to pull it to pieces and refurb it. There are little plastic 'stalks' behind the switches that wear out, not allowing the contact to flick back.

I think I removed them. Been fine ever since.

[jfb]

My drivers side switch plug appears to be wired differently to the wiring diagram! The wiring doesn't make sense. Looks like it's been tampered with perhaps. One of the pins appears to be bad (checked with multimeter) . I wonder if someone could have done a creative re wiring job!?