5 door S16 euro spec

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
5 door S16 euro spec
#31
Good luck trying to find all the cruise control parts from the continent!

The RX8 seats were fitted to Niall's car, he posted earlier in this thread.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#32
(08-09-2014, 04:49 PM)RetroPug Wrote: Good luck trying to find all the cruise control parts from the continent!

The RX8 seats were fitted to Niall's car, he posted earlier in this thread.

Yeah cruise control was just a dream. Never gonna happen. Haven't got the time to search for it. I think you'd physically have to go abroad and find it. Think I'll just keep using that pedal on the right
Reply
Thanks given by:
#33
Hi

Where does it say that it is 150bhp in the vin information. I thought s16's were meant to be 155bhp. Please advise

Many thanks

Also are the last 8 numbers of the vin the chassis number?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#34
(08-09-2014, 05:20 PM)S16 Wrote:
(08-09-2014, 04:49 PM)RetroPug Wrote: Good luck trying to find all the cruise control parts from the continent!

The RX8 seats were fitted to Niall's car, he posted earlier in this thread.

Yeah cruise control was just a dream. Never gonna happen. Haven't got the time to search for it. I think you'd physically have to go abroad and find it. Think I'll just keep using that pedal on the right

I have managed to get hold of OEM heated seat switches from Sweden and will be retrofitting heated seats, although obviously the actual elements will be aftermarket.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#35
RFT was the 150 bhp variant, fairly rare these and I haven't a clue what the specific difference was, as there's only one type of head cam and piston listed for the J4 engine, may well all be in the ecu.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#36
Yeah was me that fitted RX8 seats. They are lovely but next time round id get leather ones.

The Cruise works with a separate ECU and a cable throttle body which has a solenoid built in to move the throttle plate. Sounds simple but i bet its a bastard to fit.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
#37
Yeah I wouldn't wanna get involved in a cruise control install. It would be nice but too much to go wrong or annoy me. So what do you guys think to my purchase. Have I been a numpty or do you think I've found summat that's alright. Please don't hold any punches. I rather have honesty

(09-09-2014, 06:52 PM)welshpug Wrote: RFT was the 150 bhp variant, fairly rare these and I haven't a clue what the specific difference was, as there's only one type of head cam and piston listed for the J4 engine, may well all be in the ecu.

Thanks buddy. Slightly gutted but I'm sure I could get that 5bhp back easy enough
Reply
Thanks given by:
#38
It seems like a good car! 5dr S16 interior is cool, Ph.1 is cool, S16s are uncommon as it is etc.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#39
(10-09-2014, 07:32 PM)RetroPug Wrote: It seems like a good car! 5dr S16 interior is cool, Ph.1 is cool, S16s are uncommon as it is etc.

Thanks very much retro. Anyone else got any views? Also I'm looking at fitting upper and lower strut braces at the front, a strut brace at the rear and some solid suspension top mounts. Any idea where I could get some decent top mounts and also what else would need to make the handling even more go-kart-ish. Or do I need to throw the top mount idea out the window and do something completely different. Please help. I left my other s16's standard but I fancied a few trinkets on this one
Reply
Thanks given by:
#40
There aren't any struts at the rear of the car. Big Grin

You can put in bars to stiffen the chassis in the back of the car if you never use your boot and hate having resale value but the car has a rear beam with torsion bars for rear suspension.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#41
(11-09-2014, 04:14 PM)RetroPug Wrote: There aren't any struts at the rear of the car. Big Grin

You can put in bars to stiffen the chassis in the back of the car if you never use your boot and hate having resale value but the car has a rear beam with torsion bars for rear suspension.

Yeah that what I am on about. I've seen pictures of a bar that bolts into the wheel arches at the rear. Why would it affect the resale value?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#42
Because u have to weld them on!!
CLUB RALLYE
||AVO Race GTX Coilovers||Signature Blue Steels||P1 VTS Rack||Hybrid ARB||21mm Torsion Bar||rich_w Flywheel||
Reply
Thanks given by:
#43
The beam will be soft and saggy anyway, that'll cause much more flex than the chassis!
Reply
Thanks given by:
#44
(11-09-2014, 04:32 PM)S16 Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 04:14 PM)RetroPug Wrote: There aren't any struts at the rear of the car. Big Grin

You can put in bars to stiffen the chassis in the back of the car if you never use your boot and hate having resale value but the car has a rear beam with torsion bars for rear suspension.

Yeah that what I am on about. I've seen pictures of a bar that bolts into the wheel arches at the rear. Why would it affect the resale value?

Theyre useless pieces of tat.

People think bolting a bar between two flimsy wheel tubs helps the chassis?! lol
Reply
Thanks given by:
#45
Alright lads I was only asking lol. Like I said I kept my last ones standard. They were fast and handled well. So let's talk front suspension. Solid top mounts. Any good?? Where can I get them from? Also what else do I need/would you change?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#46
Not sure about solid top mounts, but new ones with bilstein B6(?) shocks and Eibach springs is a package you cant really beat. Wink
Reply
Thanks given by:
#47
(11-09-2014, 04:32 PM)S16 Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 04:14 PM)RetroPug Wrote: There aren't any struts at the rear of the car. Big Grin

You can put in bars to stiffen the chassis in the back of the car if you never use your boot and hate having resale value but the car has a rear beam with torsion bars for rear suspension.

Yeah that what I am on about. I've seen pictures of a bar that bolts into the wheel arches at the rear. Why would it affect the resale value?

Because nobody wants a practical but fun hot hatch that is no longer practical with bits of metal welded to not stiff parts of the chassis!

You would notice an improvement with a full rollcage and triangulation everywhere. One bar will make naff all difference other than stopping you from having a usable boot! Also being a 5dr it will flex more anyway.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#48
(11-09-2014, 08:54 PM)RetroPug Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 04:32 PM)S16 Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 04:14 PM)RetroPug Wrote: There aren't any struts at the rear of the car. Big Grin

You can put in bars to stiffen the chassis in the back of the car if you never use your boot and hate having resale value but the car has a rear beam with torsion bars for rear suspension.

Yeah that what I am on about. I've seen pictures of a bar that bolts into the wheel arches at the rear. Why would it affect the resale value?

Because nobody wants a practical but fun hot hatch that is no longer practical with bits of metal welded to not stiff parts of the chassis!

You would notice an improvement with a full rollcage and triangulation everywhere. One bar will make naff all difference other than stopping you from having a usable boot! Also being a 5dr it will flex more anyway.

So would and upper and lower strut bar on the front help at all?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#49
(11-09-2014, 09:32 PM)S16 Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 08:54 PM)RetroPug Wrote:
(11-09-2014, 04:32 PM)S16 Wrote: Yeah that what I am on about. I've seen pictures of a bar that bolts into the wheel arches at the rear. Why would it affect the resale value?

Because nobody wants a practical but fun hot hatch that is no longer practical with bits of metal welded to not stiff parts of the chassis!

You would notice an improvement with a full rollcage and triangulation everywhere. One bar will make naff all difference other than stopping you from having a usable boot! Also being a 5dr it will flex more anyway.

So would and upper and lower strut bar on the front help at all?

I've never had either but you will probably feel a difference.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#50
Hi

I'm fitting a full stainless exhaust to this car. Would a wider pipe give a louder, deeper sound? I think my last stainless was about 2.25 and was pretty loud. Would 2.5" be much louder/better/more efficient?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#51
Bigger is not always better here.. You want to keep gas velocity high (small pipe, raspier sound) while making sure there's not too much back pressure (bigger pipe, boomy/deeper sound). Obviously the stock boxes are restrictive so a standard bore exhaust with decat and a straight through design backbox is going to be the cheapest and probably the best option..

IMHO anyway Big Grin
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.

Reply
Thanks given by:
#52
(17-09-2014, 05:00 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Bigger is not always better here.. You want to keep gas velocity high (small pipe, raspier sound) while making sure there's not too much back pressure (bigger pipe, boomy/deeper sound). Obviously the stock boxes are restrictive so a standard bore exhaust with decat and a straight through design backbox is going to be the cheapest and probably the best option..

IMHO anyway Big Grin

So 2.25/2.5 would be right?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#53
(17-09-2014, 05:39 PM)S16 Wrote:
(17-09-2014, 05:00 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Bigger is not always better here.. You want to keep gas velocity high (small pipe, raspier sound) while making sure there's not too much back pressure (bigger pipe, boomy/deeper sound). Obviously the stock boxes are restrictive so a standard bore exhaust with decat and a straight through design backbox is going to be the cheapest and probably the best option..

IMHO anyway Big Grin

So 2.25/2.5 would be right?

2.25 would be ideal but louder if aftermarket, 2.5 will be much, much louder, and will probably lose you low down grunt but give a slightly better top end.

Overall, the difference is predominantly noise.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
Reply
Thanks given by:
#54
Don't decat it, these engines like the back pressure given by the cat.

Get a nice 2.25 cat back stainless exhaust like a mongoose or a scorpion system Smile

Lovely S16 btw! nice and rare like mine Big Grin
[Image: 17b33c2a-8471-4313-992e-0a4b324cf926_zps2e63812a.jpg]
Team Cyril
Reply
Thanks given by:
#55
Thanks very much. LHD is a bugger but I'm getting used to it. Slowly. It's a weekend toy so won't be driving it much. I thought about doin a decat but decided against against it and you confirmed my decision. Can't be doing with the hassle of changing it back for every MOT. What year is your S16?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#56
(17-09-2014, 06:09 PM)RetroPug Wrote:
(17-09-2014, 05:39 PM)S16 Wrote:
(17-09-2014, 05:00 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Bigger is not always better here.. You want to keep gas velocity high (small pipe, raspier sound) while making sure there's not too much back pressure (bigger pipe, boomy/deeper sound). Obviously the stock boxes are restrictive so a standard bore exhaust with decat and a straight through design backbox is going to be the cheapest and probably the best option..

IMHO anyway Big Grin

So 2.25/2.5 would be right?

2.25 would be ideal but louder if aftermarket, 2.5 will be much, much louder, and will probably lose you low down grunt but give a slightly better top end.

Overall, the difference is predominantly noise.

Thanks mate. I think I'll go with a 2.25 cat back. Remove the front box after the cat and have a straight through pipe to the new box. Gonna order my new brakes tomorrow. Any suggestions on induction?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#57
Mines a 1995 i think Smile have a look at my project thread if you like
[Image: 17b33c2a-8471-4313-992e-0a4b324cf926_zps2e63812a.jpg]
Team Cyril
Reply
Thanks given by:
#58
(18-09-2014, 09:51 PM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: Mines a 1995 i think Smile have a look at my project thread if you like

yeah your ph1 is very nice mate. quite jealous. quick update on mine. went in for the new heater matrix and brembos front and back this weekend. looking at cold air induction kits at the minute. I like the idea of a 3" stainless/chrome pipe but I also think it would look good with 3" red silicon. cant decide what to get though. any advice would be welcome

few other little mods include upper and lower strut braces, fan washer jets, leather handbrake cover/gaiter and a new personalised gearstick gaiter with the S16 logo stitched onto it. full stainless cat back kit will be fitted in the next few weeks
Reply
Thanks given by:
#59
Looking a bit better.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#60
Hi

Just about to give this a service. Can anyone recommend some really decent spark plugs and oil filters. Preferably the best type for a 2.0 s16

Many thanks.
Reply
Thanks given by:


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 3 Guest(s)