Boost gauge fitting?

[MIKE-FORD]

Do you have to drill into the inlet or is there another way to fit a boost gauge?

[MIKE-FORD]

Can someone also put up a guide on how to do this way Aswell?

[Tom]

You have to drill and tap the manifold or that metal bit on the side and put a brass fitting in there for a boost take off. Personally id get a tyre valve drill a hole in a plastic pipe and pop that in with some sealer...

[MIKE-FORD]

I've been told there's another way by connecting it to the wastegate actuator by putting a T piece in that so wanna know if anyone has a diagram for that way

[Tom]

Oh yeah good point there will only be one hose going from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator. Cut that hose bang a t peice in there and you'd be away!

[MIKE-FORD]

Yeah I've been told that but apparently it's a pain to find or something as to why I'm asking for a possible guide to be put up for other people who would like to go this way instead of drilling

[Slam Wagon]

Drilling is so much easier, if your not confident doing it just pop the elbow off and take it to a friend that is. Two minute job.

I used a brake bleed nipple from ebay. Dirty cheap standard m6 thread and next day delivery. Something a little longer would be better but uts enough to clamp on so its find. Plus its right at the top of the engine bay so access is easy.

1. Remove all bolts holing inlet elbow.

2. Remove elbow.

3. Drill correct size hole. 5.2mm for M6 iirc.

4. Tap thread using a die, its very soft metal.

5. Clean any swarf or shards

6. Screw in bleed nipple, id suggest a little lock tight and dont over tighten it. Remember how soft the metal is.

7. Refit elbow

8. Attach pipe leading to boost gauge.

[Jimbo]

Surely it would be easier to 'tee' into the outlet on compressor housing save any drilling/taking apart

[Slam Wagon]

Yeah but thats right down the back. If fitting a boost controller at the same time or have one fitted already and the pipe has easy access then yeah. If not id rather not start trying to mess about down there when the elbow is right there.

[MIKE-FORD]

Just don't wanna be drilling and want a simple T off

[titch]

Just don't wanna be drilling and want a simple T off

When you see where it is and how little access you have to it, it's not just a simple t off.

[MIKE-FORD]

But it would be nice to have a guide on showing how to do it for the people who wanna try this route is what I'm saying

[titch]

But it would be nice to have a guide on showing how to do it for the people who wanna try this route is what I'm saying

Thats what i mean, thats probably why no one has linked a guide as there probably isn't one, as most people drill and tap the inlet elbow as that pipe is such a pig to get at.

If you really want to do it that way, i would imagine the easiest way would be to jack the car, support it on stands and disconnect the fork from the lower engine mount, move the engine forward slightly and go in from underneath, you should be able to then get access to it, it is a blue pipe about 10cm long, thats the one you need to t into.

[Slam Wagon]

I think you might be able to get to it through the off side inner arch. Still jack up, wheel off, arch liner out, squeeze hand an tools in, cut hands to death, get covered in oil and grime. Swear and sweat over it and have a join that is forever hard to get to and check.

If your going to tee in get a boost controler and put it at the same time.

[Poodle]

You have to drill and tap the manifold or that metal bit on the side and put a brass fitting in there for a boost take off. Personally id get a tyre valve drill a hole in a plastic pipe and pop that in with some sealer...

Don't do this, wouldn't last two minutes - there's too much scope for deformation under boost - the silicone will just expand and spit the tyre valve out.

Also, if you're going to T into the wastegate actuator feed, have a spare pipe handy for when the original one on the turbo cracks.

---

I'm just going to reiterate that doing it T'd into the actuator feed is a bad idea imo, completely inaccessible on the HDi.

[nath86]

Look what i found within 15 secs of searching google, follow this guide if you want a decent easy to follow guide!

http://www.club-306.com/topic/11297-long...ing-basic/

[titch]

I think the OP was after a guide that showed the other way of doing it, by fitting a t piece to the hose that goes from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
He seems against doing it the way in the guide you have put up.

[MIKE-FORD]

I'm just saying it would be nice to have that guide then the guide on drilling

[Slam Wagon]

If you really want to do it that way, i would imagine the easiest way would be to jack the car, support it on stands and disconnect the fork from the lower engine mount, move the engine forward slightly and go in from underneath, you should be able to then get access to it, it is a blue pipe about 10cm long, thats the one you need to t into.

I wouldnt tee into it. I would replace it.

1. Go buy some 3mm vacuum pipe, 2m should be fine. A t piece, a manual boost controller, suitable clamps, a stanley knife and some plasters.

2. As in the first paragraph, give yourself as much access as you can.

3. Remove old pipe.

4. Loosen the connector on the turbo and turn it to point towards your bonnet. Then tighten it back up.

5. Feed the new length of pipe down from the top of the egine.

6. Connect it onto the turbo end with a securing clamp (jubilee clamp or similar)

7. Working from the top select where your mbc is going to be secure. And cut the pipe with a bit of excess.

8. Clamp pipe to the input side of the MBC. And the "offcut" of pipe onto the exit side of the MBC. This will be your return to complete the loop, the other end joins to where the blue pipe connected originally.

9. On the input side of you MBC cut the pipe an fit t piece this will be the feed for you boost gauge.

10. Feed "offcut" pipe down to the connector and clamp it up from underneath.

11. Ensure all conections are tight. Refit engine to correct position.

12. Connect feed from boost gauge to t piece.

13. Adjust boost controller to the lowest boost setting. Slowly open it up until your gauge is reading standard boost levels est. 14psi/1bar

Ive never done it but i think thats how it should be done. Anyone have any corrections?

[Poodle]

Looks good to me tbh, nice one.