Air con ac can it be removed, warlord help needed

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Air con ac can it be removed, warlord help needed
#1
Air con ac can it be removed reason why there small holes in the pipes. Also Im changing the radiator so Im thinking of pulling the air con rad out and afew pipes. But leave in the air con motor.

Would that be fine todo and wont effect running of the car.

306 hdi


thanks
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#2
You do have an insane amount of questions..

Yes you can remove it all if needed. If your keeping the motor there make sure its disconnected especially the clutch
[Image: IMG_20130925_181339_zps95df48fa.jpg]
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#3
You can remove the a/c but you need a tensioner off a non-a/c car and a shorter aux belt.

I ran mine with the pipes disconnected as they were f*cked and the system was empty anyway. And the a/c uses an electronic clutch assembly so if you keep the a/c button off in the car the pump isn't actually "pumping" anyway.
[Image: signature_zps1a02ba79.jpg]
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#4
4WayDiablo Wrote:You do have an insane amount of questions..

Yes you can remove it all if needed. If your keeping the motor there make sure its disconnected especially the clutch

The car a damaged repairable which Im fixing up. So there things that need doing to the car which Im sorting out.

Getting things cheap but making sure there done properly.
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#5
4WayDiablo Wrote:You do have an insane amount of questions..

Yes you can remove it all if needed. If your keeping the motor there make sure its disconnected especially the clutch

disconnected especially the clutch where that on the pump?

Does that make a diffrence leaving just the pump on with all the pipes gone with rad.
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#6
Yeah on the pump.
Just go whole hog and get a non ac belt and remove it all
[Image: IMG_20130925_181339_zps95df48fa.jpg]
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#7
4WayDiablo Wrote:Yeah on the pump.
Just go whole hog and get a non ac belt and remove it all

I was thinking of removing the pump soon when changing all the belts etc.

So which altanator belt do I need a non ac for the 306 hdi?

What else needs doing once the belt changed anything else changes like tensioners or anything diffrent?

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#8
just go for a hdi non ac belt
warlord done it on his didnt he? hed be best to talk to about tentioner but iirc you dont need a special one
[Image: IMG_20130925_181339_zps95df48fa.jpg]
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#9
the non a/c 306 hdi belt is still to long, unless you plan on buying the hole hdi non a/c tensioners, (it comes to about £115) once all the tensioners have been bought. you just need a shorter belt one that gos round it all. and make up your own route.


also if you just disconnect the pump (take the plug off the back of it) it wont have a power feed so it wont ever engage. sorted.
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#10
If there no pressure in the pipes the pump will never engage anyway
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#11
Daniel306 Wrote:If there no pressure in the pipes the pump will never engage anyway

mine did, if you bypass the aircon switch to make your fans work like i had to lol
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#12
As standard they wont tho, i set the fans to come on with the rear electric window cut switch, do your fans come on randomly like the ac would have when you set the heaters to the window?
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#13
na std it wont lol, and na they dont come on randomly, its becouse my fans wouldent work, and still to this day i dont know why they don't but i had to bypass my aircon switch that switchs my fan on constantly and i just let it run, it can cause premature faliure of the fans being on all the time, but... there only on a low speed so it dont matter really...

cant overcool it ether becouse it just blows through the rad and the thermostate dont release intill its up to temp anyway so it still heats up and gets hot like it normaly done anyway. but yeah not a clue why they dont work i tryed all sorts, got lives and earths where i ment to, changed relays, temp sensers, you name it i changed it, but it was ever since i changed to slim line fans for the fmic, and when i took all the aircon out.
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#14
Sounds to much hassle getting rid of the air con pump also extra money not worth it.

I keep that with the new belt thats going on. So far Ive taken the pipes out and disconnected the wire connector going in to the pump will that be fine?

Is it best to leave the connector plugged in or of? what diffrence will that do just switch the fan on and of?

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#15
yeah you can leave it out, wont be a problem, its not to much hassle you just need to find a smaller belt, i have it on mine, but cant remember my belt size i wrote it down somewhere, for when i need to renew. i got a bit of string run it round my pullys measured the lengh and then took it to the motorfactors and said i need a belt this long, and they have a gauge for it.

the plug on the back off the pump is just a live feed to switch on the pump, but it wont work anyway becouse your need the pressure switch to run with no pipes its never gonna get the pressure it needs to switch on anyway, but i left it off as im never going to use it,
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#16
Or you could fix your aircon and avoid all this lol
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#17
tomw1123 Wrote:Or you could fix your aircon and avoid all this lol

I done the easyesy thing cut all the pipes put 15mins. Disconnected the plug job done simple.
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#18
Just get rid of the pump mate, gates part number 6pk1163 for the belt you need.

Non-aircon belt would work, but you'd need the tensioner set up from the same. It's the more expensive way of doing it, but the belt routing is better.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#19
Whats the point? the pipes arent heavy, you dont need the extra room.... could of just fixed it besides you've only done half a job and left the motor in there.. probably the heaviest part of the system :/
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#20
Notoriously difficult to fix, really expensive parts, barely need it in this country, leaves more room for FMIC fitting and pipe routing, etc... Wink
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#21
So I need the Renault 19 1.9d belt 6pk1163 for the belt and remove the lower idle pulley + the compressor without having to buy the whole new belt + tensioners setup.

I just need a new top tensioner need sorting I will be going to 1 instead of 2.

Do I just stick to the same top tensioner or need to change to anther kind?

[Image: 306beltdiffrences.png]
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#22
Welshy_Pete Wrote:So I need the Renault 19 1.9d belt 6pk1163 for the belt and remove the lower idle pulley + the compressor without having to buy the whole new belt + tensioners setup.

I just need a new top tensioner need sorting I will be going to 1 instead of 2.

Do I just stick to the same top tensioner or need to change to anther kind?

[Image: 306beltdiffrences.png]

So am I on the right track now with this?
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#23
Yes mate, you're on the right track. The standard tensioner pulley is fine, it doesn't need replacing or changing unless it's worn anyway. If you buy the 1168 belt you can leave the other idler in as well for a slightly better track around the alternator.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#24
Nice work guys.

I just removed my pipes and stuff, and left the compressor there. I would have liked to have removed it all though, and done the belt swap etc as per above diagram!

AC on a 306 this age now is just dragging around weight for no reason. Does anyone's AC actually work? I think I've seen about 1 in 20 with working air con hehe.

Dave
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#25
I tried this and must have used a slightly too short belt and it made my alternator burn up.
[Image: ocpic2.pg.jpg]
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#26
Would be very surprised if too short a belt could burn your alternator fella, if it was too tight you wouldn't have been able to get it on, simple as... Open to being corrected though.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#27
I'm also stuck with the same problem, I have a 6pk1163 belt on there currently and one of the splines have managed to disintegrate and fall out, I'm not sure how long the belt will last really.

To change to a non AC belt setup, you'll also need the alternator bracket to be changed from a non AC HDI engined vehicle.

Is there a definitive/proven belt combination and routing that works?
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#28
pugbug Wrote:I'm also stuck with the same problem, I have a 6pk1163 belt on there currently and one of the splines have managed to disintegrate and fall out, I'm not sure how long the belt will last really.

To change to a non AC belt setup, you'll also need the alternator bracket to be changed from a non AC HDI engined vehicle.

Is there a definitive/proven belt combination and routing that works?

The splines on were the pulley tensioner or pulley wheels?
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#29
The entire middle spline has been melted/stuck to one of the pulley. The car will be off road till I sort it out.
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#30
pugbug Wrote:The entire middle spline has been melted/stuck to one of the pulley. The car will be off road till I sort it out.

Its best to get it sorted thats for sure save it doing alot more damage. It will save you alot of money in the end.
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