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Had this car 7 days and it's f*cked already!
Coolants pressurising and overheating
Not loosing coolant or hardly any there's oil in the expansion bottle
Can I get the head skimmed and a fresh gasket do the job don't want to replace it if it's only going to pressurise again
Cheers
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08-12-2013, 10:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-12-2013, 10:46 PM by Jenkosowls.)
Orange engine bay? Tried any smaller things like thermostat? Not to big of a job so catch it early and you'll be fine just get head pressure tested
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There was no team orange engine bay occurring witch is wierd
Too rad hose is hard as f*ck bled all the pressure out the coolant via the bleed screw behind the fuel filter housing tool rad cap off and there was plenty of water still left put cap back on drove 2 miles off boost temp shot up and had pressurised again
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(08-12-2013, 10:49 PM)Danny2009 Wrote: There was no team orange engine bay occurring witch is wierd
Too rad hose is hard as f*ck bled all the pressure out the coolant via the bleed screw behind the fuel filter housing tool rad cap off and there was plenty of water still left put cap back on drove 2 miles off boost temp shot up and had pressurised again
Has heater matrix been bypassed?
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No mate heaters are wank tho
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sounds like HG matey for sure
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Got to be really if oil cooler had gone it wouldn't cause it to pressurise and over heat?
Question is if I have the head skimmed and a new gasket fitted will it cure it or will it still pressurise
Something in the back of my head is telling me it's not going to cure it
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why, whats in the back of your head?!
there was a batch of bad heads...but they were all in citroens I believe.
just buy a ready skimmed head off someone here.. theres a few kicking around, put up a wanted ad.
Possibly cheaper than getting one skimmed
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I dunno just keep thinking take the pump off and weigh the car in and get more than I paid for it
But it's cheap enough to repair
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exactly...
worst comes to worst, drill a hole in rad cap!!!
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Mate I drove home with the rad cap in the glove box and the bleed screw in there too with the fans wired on constant temp at 92 event full night!
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Bloody hell mate, you've had sh*t luck lately! Defo hg though.....
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Shit luck Dosent cover it mate thought about sacking the lot off and gettin a push bike! Lol
Ill crack on with that next week then French cars ehh
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This car is just a cheap runner?? If so just bang some k-seal in got nothing to lose
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Hmm may do
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09-12-2013, 03:04 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-12-2013, 03:05 PM by r3k1355.)
My DT put in over a year pressurising the coolant, got nearly 20K out of the old beast before it finally popped it's clogs.
Spent an entire winter without ANY car heating tho, which was proper crap.
f*ck knows why I didn't sack it off, probably cos it ran veg like a champ and saved me a pile of cash.
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Well headgasket was shagged original cardboard shite
Replaced with a mls payen headgasket and skimmed and pressure tested head
And it's still f*cked!
Had to hard wire the fans to come on with ignition and it still over heats if it's on the motorway at 65 or sat at lights
Bled coolant changed thermostat no air lock heaters warm
Any ideas before I burn the fucker
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Waterpump.impeller broken??
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is it actually overheating? or is it a dodgy temp sensor?
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Skimmed and pressure tested?
Doesnt even own a 306.
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(13-12-2013, 10:53 PM)Jimbo Wrote: Waterpump.impeller broken??
that's a fair shout . .
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Have you flushed the rad/full cooling system?
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14-12-2013, 01:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 14-12-2013, 01:44 PM by Danny2009.)
Yea flushed it out best i could when stat was out, head was pressure tested and skimmed
It's deffo over heating padge
Had a new water pump on it not long ago, it's not got air in it undid bleed screw and water came out straight away
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Did you have a look over the cylinders? One of then could be cracked. However hellish that would be. How easy was it to bleed? Could well be water pump.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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(13-12-2013, 10:53 PM)Jimbo Wrote: Waterpump.impeller broken??
good call this
has the xud the water housing on the back of the block like the XU10
if it has, remove it, and stick your finger in the block hole you should be able to feal the pump impellor,
turn the engine over with a spanner and feal if the impellor turns with your finger
this will save you removing the cambelt and stripping the pump out
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Block was fine, use a old rad cap drilled a hole in it and screwed a air line fitting in was bled in no time lol
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This sounds like my 405 GTX 1.9 TD.
Bought it with a blown HG. Took head off, got it ported, pressure tested and skimmed.
New MLS headgasket on bolted down and started, just the same as before, building heaps of pressure and blowing water out of radcap.
Head off again, back to pressure test, still found to be fine. On again with new gasket, and building pressure again!
I never found the reason, but I more or less concluded it was the block that had to be cracked, even though I could not see any easy spottable cracks in it. Very annoying.
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Sorry about hijacking your thread Danny but it saves starting a new 1 for a similar problem
I got a pressurising issues with my car. It drives fine etc and sit at 75 ish under normal driving and goes up to over 90 when boosting on with is normal yeah? But the cooling system is getting fair pressure in it. I cant take the rad cap off after driving it with loads of coolant escaping unless I let air out by opening the bleed screw next to the fuel filter. It never over heats and doesn't seem to use any water.
I fitted a victor reinz head gasket and bolts and had the head pressure tested and skimmed when I rebuilt the engine about 4000 miles ago.
Any ideas would be very helpful
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I also am getting this. Found out it the plastic thermostat housing has a crack in it. Also the new stat isn't working properly so just removed it
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It is supposed to be pressurized, water expands when heated, so that's perfectly fine by itself.
Problem is if it gets so high that the cap starts to spit out water, or if you get air-pockets in the system which disallows the water to flow properly, hence overheating.
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