Fitting Electronic PAS

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Guide: Fitting Electronic PAS
#1
Why would i want to do this? The main benefit for us is that you can put the pump anywhere meaning if you need the space where the pump fits for say, a super charger, its much easier to go EPAS. Also, you could have it switchable so you could turn it off easily for track days and fun driving.

You can pick up a pump from a 106 or saxo from about 2000 onwards. The pump is down in front of the gearbox (where im mounting mine). On ebay they go for anywhere between £40 and £120 quid. I was lucky and picked mine up today at the scrap yard for £30. I would also try and pick up the loom as well. it has its own small loom which will make your life so much easier!

   

So firstly, remove the pump from the bracket and jack the car up. If you have air con, you will have to remove or bend the right hand pipe out of the way. Mount the front of the bracket to the front cross member. you will then need to make a bar to hold the back end of the pump bracket up. I bolted it on at the ABS bracket bolt and the other end to the bracket

   

   

   

No prizes for anyone who can guess what i used to make that strap Wink

Bolt it all up and make sure your pump fits in. The front bolts are difficult to get to but can be done.

Wiring
There is 3 wires. constant 12v line, earth and a 12v switched live. If you want it on all the time, hook up the constant to the battery, switched to the alternator live and the earth is pretty obvious. If you want it switched, send the small white wire to the dash and put a switch in and then back to a 12v switched.

Hoses
You need to take the top pipe from the original PAS and bolt that into the top of the new pump. The metal section may need some bending but just be careful with this. You then need a length of low pressure hose (10mm ID) to run from the fluid cooler to the tank on the new pump. You can now remove the old resivoir and piping.

I havent got round to removing the old pump so dont know the new belt length but will post it up when i do!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#2
fyi...my wife has a 1997 106 with electric PAS...so dont discount older 106s when looking for it!

good guide though pal
Wishes for more power...
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#3
Oh cool! I thought it was only the later ones. The s2.5 of you like. Ones with digital dials.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#4
Nice info I've got a electric set up in a box I've had for ages just never got to fitting it. So does the pump run at all times with ignition?
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#5
It's up to you how you wire it. The wiring is the same as a amp. Constant supply from the battery but it's activated by a switch wire. It's up to you where you wire that switch wire in.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#6
How does it feel in comparison to the standard?
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#7
Don't know. It's not plumbed in lol. The pump works but I haven't got the shorter belt and the normal pump would shit it's self in minutes if it had no fluid in.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#8
Hurry it up then lol Wink
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#9
Ask dumdum he had one on his hdi.

Nice mod and guide.
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#10
I had one one my DT to make room for supercharger stuff, just make sure you use a relay, ideally the OEM one from the donor car, works a treat, bolted mine to bottom cross member, but i used one with a remote resovois connection for ease of filling. Had mine on a switch,best part is, when you throw a rod, you can have PAS on tow...FRIGGIN RIGHTS YOU CAN!!!
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#11
..and then we cheeched!

Be nice to know how this works out feel wise in the end.
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#12
be good to know what relay...any idea darren?
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#13
Its connected to the pump in the 106/saxo's as standard. Its a really good design TBH, its all waterproofed and within its own housing unit. Ill chuck a picture up later unless Niall beats me to it.
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#14
its a nice space saving option I have to admit.
may consider it in future as the space down there isnt useful for much else!
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#15
Quite a few of the '6 boys have cone filters down there, but TBH its a stupid place to have a filter that isnt enclosed anyway. Just asking for trouble with an air filter there. As you say, its a good place as its a redundant space. That is where they are as standard on the 106's Smile
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#16
defo...silly place down there. asking for a hydro lock

and no air down there really
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#17
Just as Matt or Sean lol
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#18
(08-09-2013, 08:09 AM)Grant Wrote: Quite a few of the '6 boys have cone filters down there, but TBH its a stupid place to have a filter that isnt enclosed anyway. Just asking for trouble with an air filter there. As you say, its a good place as its a redundant space. That is where they are as standard on the 106's Smile

the std air filter enclosure is located there

i would suggest wiring the trigger wire into the fuel pump relay
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#19
(08-09-2013, 08:18 AM)cully Wrote:
(08-09-2013, 08:09 AM)Grant Wrote: Quite a few of the '6 boys have cone filters down there, but TBH its a stupid place to have a filter that isnt enclosed anyway. Just asking for trouble with an air filter there. As you say, its a good place as its a redundant space. That is where they are as standard on the 106's Smile

the std air filter enclosure is located there

i would suggest wiring the trigger wire into the fuel pump relay

Correct it is. But it is an enclosure, with the inlet feed behind the grille. Some people stick a cone filter down there, then wonder why their car is hydrolocking when they hit puddles.
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#20
we boot mounted the 106 dturbo one. saves space in the front

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#21
(07-09-2013, 09:58 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote: I had one one my DT to make room for supercharger stuff, just make sure you use a relay, ideally the OEM one from the donor car, works a treat, bolted mine to bottom cross member, but i used one with a remote resovois connection for ease of filling. Had mine on a switch,best part is, when you throw a rod, you can have PAS on tow...FRIGGIN RIGHTS YOU CAN!!!

Kind of hoping I won't throw a rod unless I do a Matt bush :p
Yeah the oem one is part of the small loom that controls it so it's easy just to rip that out and use it. Ive got mine tucked away in the engine bay fuse box.
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1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#22
(08-09-2013, 08:00 AM)Piggy Wrote: be good to know what relay...any idea darren?

At least 50 amps, 60 would be better, and obviously, 50 amp fuse.
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#23
Yeah, needs to be a good relay, it pulls alot of amps....thats the only downside of it, but upside is turn it off on dyno run and gain 1hp lol
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#24
So if I take the aux belt off the supercharger, there's no load from the supercharger, but still has a supercharger fitted?!

Best of both worlds right?

Seems legit...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#25
(09-09-2013, 03:31 PM)Ruan Wrote: So if I take the aux belt off the supercharger, there's no load from the supercharger, but still has a supercharger fitted?!

Best of both worlds right?

Seems legit...

Yes! You can also take the cambelt off so there is no load from the valve springs.

/dumdum
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1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#26
Just remove the pistons, less drag FTW
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#27
Any body have rough dimensions of the unit? Wanting to know if it will fit where the hdi resevoir currently is.
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#28
Roughly 250x150x150mm

From memory.
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#29
No it won't. Well not unless you make a funky mount for it and it will be very close to the original belt run.
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1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#30
The resevoir is up on the inner wing and with the belt driven unit removed the belt run will all be down on the bottom end.
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