Setting a stock idle on a modded pump!?

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Setting a stock idle on a modded pump!?
#1
Okay, been doing my fackin' nut recently with this. I just can't for the life of me seem to get the idle right. Back when I bought it I would turn the key and the motor would just start up without coughing, shuddering, rattling etc.

Now it seems that if I adjust the pump to the extent where it will start on the turn of the key it ends up at like 1500RPM once the engine is warm.

Sure I'm not running a cold start cable off the wax stat but I have heard people saying to discard the cold start spring which would also disable the system and they haven't had any problems? I am assuming they are part of the same system.

How I have it set up now if to idle at about 1100RPM when warm which means that I have to put my foot on the throttle to start it in the morning until it revs itself for the first couple of minutes until the idle smooths out.

I have removed the hot and cold idle screws as they both control the same lever? So backing off one would have the same effect as screwing in the other? And the idle screw on the back of the pump does the same job anyway?Huh

Really can't see the need for 3 different idle screws.
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#2
one screw does throttle position
one does cold idle
one does hot idle.

there are guides for setting up ya pump
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#3
Take a picture of your pump so we can see throttle arm and the 2 screws on the back and tells us what state of tune your engine is currently at. Smile
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#4
Are you still running veg? I had the exact same symptoms as you until i moved the throttle arm back on its spines. I've got no idle screws and cold start cable isnt connected. Cold mine idles at about 500rpm, this is for a couple of miles if that. Warm idle is around 8-900rpm.
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#5
Hello Anton. Thank you for the helpful reply. Yes I am running 100% veg at the moment. I have also had a play with the throttle splines. I have marked the arm roughly where I get a decent balance between startup and idle and I move the arm back and forth in relation to that. But it is hard to tell how much "one spline" is because they seem to be too fine to really judge. At the moment it seems okay but I am still having to press the throttle to smooth it out when I start it and then it still idles at about 1100RPM when warm. I just want to get it back so it starts normally and with a nice calm idle.
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#6
(10-08-2013, 07:47 AM)306Puggy Wrote: Hello Anton. Thank you for the helpful reply. Yes I am running 100% veg at the moment. I have also had a play with the throttle splines. I have marked the arm roughly where I get a decent balance between startup and idle and I move the arm back and forth in relation to that. But it is hard to tell how much "one spline" is because they seem to be too fine to really judge. At the moment it seems okay but I am still having to press the throttle to smooth it out when I start it and then it still idles at about 1100RPM when warm. I just want to get it back so it starts normally and with a nice calm idle.

Think your best bet is to run your tank down throw 20quid worth of diesel in it then try setting up your idle then, as when you run veg your idle seems to be all over the place, i had same problem when i was running veg oil.

The arm on the back of the pump if you have your cold start cable on it, it pulls the leave when its cold bringing the revs up (if its set up right) i think your better having the cable connected for running veg so when you first start it up its reving up slightly.....

Thats my opinion anyway.



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#7
Runing veg definately wont make it easier to set up the idle thats for sure.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#8
ah...veg, that would have helped to know!!

setup on diesel and then just live with the rough starting.

I would keep the cold start stat though if you can, esp with veg
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#9
Right as it happens someone bought me a tank of derv and the starting is back to normal but the idle is about 10.5k which it needs to be so that it will idle on veg.
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#10
(27-08-2013, 01:42 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Right as it happens someone bought me a tank of derv and the starting is back to normal but the idle is about 10.5k which it needs to be so that it will idle on veg.

Thats hell of an engine ticking over at that speed Wink
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#11
Mine idles on veg at 800-900 hot or cold. Ginge set mine up properly when he was last over. But I backed the fuel off a little as it was coaling on boost. Idle sits perfect now
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#12
(27-08-2013, 01:47 PM)Tom Wrote:
(27-08-2013, 01:42 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Right as it happens someone bought me a tank of derv and the starting is back to normal but the idle is about 10.5k which it needs to be so that it will idle on veg.

Thats hell of an engine ticking over at that speed Wink

lol, got muddled up there! Yeah that would have to be a rotary to spin that fast lol!

(27-08-2013, 01:49 PM)Matt Wrote: Mine idles on veg at 800-900 hot or cold. Ginge set mine up properly when he was last over. But I backed the fuel off a little as it was coaling on boost. Idle sits perfect now

Curious, I don't know how he must have done that since when I set the idle lower on veg I have to start it with the throttle down and then I have to balance the idle with the throttle until it has sufficiently warmed up enough so that it doesn't go back to a really slow idle and shaking. Can't imagine an idle that low on veg actually, must sound interesting!

On a side note, I have noticed that on diesel it sounds significantly quieter than on vegetable oil as well for some reason.
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#13
(27-08-2013, 02:48 PM)306Puggy Wrote: On a side note, I have noticed that on diesel it sounds significantly quieter than on vegetable oil as well for some reason.

Please remember diesel IS NOT THE SAME as veg/SF/seed oil.

There are many difference; viscosity and contents of each fluid to name a couple.

If you smell it, they smell different too... Dodgy
Diablo Hdi Dturbo and 205 1.9 project - it lives!
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#14
mine idles about 700 cold without struggle then about 900 when warm

(11mm on veg)
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#15
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#16
Try winding the throttle arm back and the idle screw in.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#17
(27-08-2013, 03:19 PM)Piggy Wrote: mine idles about 700 cold without struggle then about 900 when warm

(11mm on veg)

This is really strange, maybe the 11mm pump helps? As soon as I go below about a 1k RPM idle for veg it starts to really play up from cold, like rattling, starting with a "vroom" and then dying again, not starting without my foot on the throttle, etc. I almost wonder if there is some sort of blockage in the fuel lines like a piece of rubber debris were it shouldn't be causing the pump to have to work harder to pull the fuel through hence why it needs a higher idle to be steady on veg.

(27-08-2013, 05:48 PM)Tom Wrote: Try winding the throttle arm back and the idle screw in.

How do I do the above?
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#18
Stop running veg tbh

But if you want to set up on derv and when going back to cheapshit fuel up idle ever so slightly and should be fine, remember these pumps were designed to run on derv slightly thicker in viscosity than modern derv but not as thick as veg, its a tricky one as could clog injectors filter and allsorts that can affect idle

I wish id never ran veg for 3 months I put it down to my last rod failure lol
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#19
Have you recently checked the in take filter/strainer?

also, sure theres no air ingress? fuel filter ok?

I change my fuel filter 2000-3000miles on veg.

what veg you using?
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#20
(27-08-2013, 06:21 PM)CJ_Derv Wrote: Stop running veg tbh

But if you want to set up on derv and when going back to cheapshit fuel up idle ever so slightly and should be fine, remember these pumps were designed to run on derv slightly thicker in viscosity than modern derv but not as thick as veg, its a tricky one as could clog injectors filter and allsorts that can affect idle

I wish id never ran veg for 3 months I put it down to my last rod failure lol

Interesting points CJ, but I can't see how veg could cause conrod failure unless through making the oil sticky? But yeah I agree the list of things that veg could clog is endless.

(27-08-2013, 06:26 PM)Piggy Wrote: Have you recently checked the in take filter/strainer?

also, sure theres no air ingress? fuel filter ok?

I change my fuel filter 2000-3000miles on veg.

what veg you using?

Hi piggy, yes I have cleaned the in tank strainer on two occasions, I made a thread with photos actually, it was quite manky the first time, the second time was just to check how quickly it was gumming back up but I thought I might as well clean it again since I had it out anyway.

I have about 1500 miles on my current fuel filter.

I am using Tesco veg/sunflower oil, depending on which one they have in stock.

Air ingress, hmm, that's a tough one but if there was air ingress I would expect it to cause problems on DERV which is doesn't.
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#21
tesco veg/sunflower.

I know this is picky but are you using sunflower and rapeseed or you got soya veg in there??
soya veg is terrible stuff.
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#22
If they have sunflower then I get sunflower but if they don't then I just get the regular veg, not soya veg. Thanks.
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#23
have you checked the ingredients...their 'regular veg' I think is soya.
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#24
Had a look on the vegy bottle, doesn't list ingredients at all. But I am back on veg now and it is running like shit again :/ Engine sounds loud as feck and little misfires all the time. Pump advanced 3/4s, everything fine, etc. This is half veg and half sunflower.
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#25
it's what happens on Veg, get used to it, unless you mix some diesel or petrol in with it, i'm running ra*e atm which is slightly better but it's not diesel, it's fine after a few minutes though although still the occasional flat spot when going for it through the gears . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#26
ra*e's blimming good TBH, trouble is you can't find it anywhere! Tesco or the 99p store is my only source for veg/sunflower and if I can get sunflower I consider myself lucky.
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#27
ra*e is £18.49 at JJ's and Veg is £16.70 for 20l .. ..
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#28
rapeseed is very easy to get hold of.

tesco have it on offer every other month or so for a quid a litre in 5litre containers.
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#29
(17-09-2013, 08:22 PM)Piggy Wrote: rapeseed is very easy to get hold of.

tesco have it on offer every other month or so for a quid a litre in 5litre containers.

not at my Tesco they don't, they vary all over the country, not bothered because as i say, 18.49 for 20l atm . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#30
I have my scouts at kidderminster, swindon, minehead and brighton. inc my home town of stow...

all at a quid a litre in those stores?!!

PS whats JJs?!
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