Td04 help?

[306pc]

Does the td04 need to have the actuator removed and welded to fit into the 306 or is it a performance mod? I'm ready to buy but for this last issue.

[martyn92]

You can weld the wastegate shut if you like, or you can keep the wastegate if you have the right manifold and make up a bracket

[Jake]

I had a actuator on mine.. In the end I welded it shut though so unless you plan to run lame boost I'd just sack it off.

[306pc]

So it should be easier and better without. Excellent. Thanks.

[Mattcheese31]

So it should be easier and better without. Excellent. Thanks.

easier? Probably yes....better? No, better to keep and fit a manual boost controller

[Danny2009]

If you want anything over 20 psi sack it off and weld it up

[CJ_Derv]

I agree with danny tbh, matt you havent had one fitted yet :p

[kernow_joe]

So it should be easier and better without. Excellent. Thanks.

easier? Probably yes....better? No, better to keep and fit a manual boost controller

I'd agree with Matt on this one, if you've welded the wastegate up you are controlling the boost by fuel alone so your manifold pressure may be seeing 30psi when in atcual fact you could burn the same fuel on 25psi so turbo working harder than it needs and creating more heat etc etc

numbers are not corretc in any way just to explain what I mean

[Mattcheese31]

I agree with danny tbh, matt you havent had one fitted yet :p

that's true pal it's not on yet, but i also haven't blown one up like you and Danny . . lol

[Chris_90]

So it should be easier and better without. Excellent. Thanks.

easier? Probably yes....better? No, better to keep and fit a manual boost controller

I'd agree with Matt on this one, if you've welded the wastegate up you are controlling the boost by fuel alone so your manifold pressure may be seeing 30psi when in atcual fact you could burn the same fuel on 25psi so turbo working harder than it needs and creating more heat etc etc

numbers are not corretc in any way just to explain what I mean

I agree with this, surely you would produce more power with less psi with the wastegate on??

Personally if I ever put a td04 on again I would keep the wastegate.

[Danny2009]

May be true but the wastegate is designed for a Subaru that won't be boosting over 20psi I've heard of a few not been able to get over 20 psi due to the gate failing and opening up

I just sacked both mine off get it welded up, there isn't much room down there as it is never mind arising about making brackets to keep the gate

[silverzx]

Buy this:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130868898304





Ask for the 2.0 Bar spring.

Job done!?

[Danny2009]

Fair point!

Still best part of £65 then got to adapt it to fit down the back?

May be because I'm Northern but I would just prefer to weld it

[silverzx]

Meh. You could buy another TD04L for the cost of the actuator...

[martyn92]

Or just buy a manual boost controller? :p

[silverzx]

Or just buy a manual boost controller? :p

There not that bad but not sure if they're designed to control boost between 20~30 PSI.

[Mattcheese31]

each to their own choice i guess, having watched and learnt for a good while i decided against fitting my last TD04 because i couldn't keep the wastegate, this one i have now is ready to go with wastegate . . . .we'll see, i'm sure everyone will lol if it shits a rod anyway but i'm trying to give her a fair chance . .

[Tom]

Alot of cock being spouted here, Wastegated is better in every way as long as its properly setup. Most people just cba or try it and think yeah f*ck it and weld it shut. I know, my wastegate fell off now theres some cable ties holding the arm shut! So mainly the lesson here is make sure your bracket is strong!

[ste91]

I'd keep the wastegate if possible, and do whatever needs to be done to control boost properly, use a manual boost controller, even use a different actuator/change the spring if you really have to.

There seem to be a lot of people on this forum who run lots of boost and probably think that more boost = more power, when really the turbo is way out of it's efficiency range and just blowing out hot air.

[Mattcheese31]

Meh. You could buy another TD04L for the cost of the actuator...

lol . .that's not really relevant though is it? do it once and do it properly . .

[silverzx]

Meh. You could buy another TD04L for the cost of the actuator...

lol . .that's not really relevant though is it? do it once and do it properly . .

Yeah if you can be bothered. Otherwise weld and away you go.

[Mattcheese31]

Meh. You could buy another TD04L for the cost of the actuator...

lol . .that's not really relevant though is it? do it once and do it properly . .

Yeah if you can be bothered. Otherwise weld and BOOM away you go.

EFA . .

[silverzx]

lol . .that's not really relevant though is it? do it once and do it properly . .

Yeah if you can be bothered. Otherwise weld and BOOM away you go.

EFA . .

You got it.

I wish I had an actuator on the old TD04'd 205 but really just can't be assed.

Might aswell put the effort into a GT turbo.

[CJ_Derv]

I agree with danny tbh, matt you havent had one fitted yet :p

that's true pal it's not on yet, but i also haven't blown one up like you and Danny . . lol

Theres no fun if you dont blow at least 3 engines haha

If you get uprated actuator happy days the standard one wont let you boost what u want

---

Its so good having a vnt tho but not in a 306 anymore :p

[Dave]

There is no right or wrong answer to this.. your wastegate is there to stop rediculously high exhaust manifold pressures (which in turn causes high boost/operspool) but you'll only get rediculously high EMP's on certain turbos (the smaller wheeled td04 for example) but if its a large hotsided td04 you'll have no issues, it'll be laggy, and flow alot of gas out in which case running no wastegate is absolutely fine because its big enough to keep EMP's lower. If its a blower thats fully spooled sub 3k, you'll probably have issues running no wastegate if your spanking 6k, and more than likely be changing gear because of this, because there is less power there... with a wastegate it'll free up the top end, thats what its for. Most of the time its not really noticable and either way it'll go like stink whatever you do, so its down to you to decide when your turbo is spooling and if a wastegate is needed. Get an EMP gauge and find out I've seen 120+ psi EMP before, causing spikes of 65psi boost, but it went like it was a nasp because of no flow (closed vnt vanes) but they are just an extension of wastegate theory.

[Mattcheese31]

There is no right or wrong answer to this.. your wastegate is there to stop rediculously high exhaust manifold pressures (which in turn causes high boost/operspool) but you'll only get rediculously high EMP's on certain turbos (the smaller wheeled td04 for example) but if its a large hotsided td04 you'll have no issues, it'll be laggy, and flow alot of gas out in which case running no wastegate is absolutely fine because its big enough to keep EMP's lower. If its a blower thats fully spooled sub 3k, you'll probably have issues running no wastegate if your spanking 6k, and more than likely be changing gear because of this, because there is less power there... with a wastegate it'll free up the top end, thats what its for. Most of the time its not really noticable and either way it'll go like stink whatever you do, so its down to you to decide when your turbo is spooling and if a wastegate is needed. Get an EMP gauge and find out I've seen 120+ psi EMP before, causing spikes of 65psi boost, but it went like it was a nasp because of no flow (closed vnt vanes) but they are just an extension of wastegate theory.

translation: "better to fit a wastegate if you can be arsed" . . .

[CJ_Derv]

Or big arse turbo and a reasonable vnt to boost that up