Dash Board PCB

[Anfrax666]

Hi All,

I have a V reg 1.6 meridian which broke down yesterday and smoke started coming from behind the dashboard. Called roadside etc and after dismantling the dash it was discovered that one of the black chips on the PCB behind the clocks had melted.

I need to basically order a new dash but need to know whether matching the engine code (NFZ) is sufficient? or do i need to match the number on the PCB or white plastic frame itself?

And can i swap the PCB out with my one so i have the same computer attached to the white frame?







Thanks in advance

[darrenjlobb]

Before you just swap it out, id probs be slightly weary of why it happened, have a look at the traces and see which wires it connects to to see what circuit it is, its quite likely something has happened elsewhere to short / put power in the wrong place...might not be the case, but wouldnt wanna pop another dash trying...If you find out what the component was (ask cully) you could likely solder a new one in with two jump wires to nearest points and fix your current one, but like i said, it must have popped for a reason...

[Anfrax666]

Thanks for the reply, I'll have a look and take a photo of the PCB again when i get home tonight.

Initially the engine cut out and went completely dead as i turned into the a business park, but no dash lights working at all. Tried turning it over for 30 seconds or so but no luck so removed the key and tried again, this time all the lights came on but as it tried to start smoke came out and the oil light started flashing rapidly! I figured trying to restart it might of drawn too much current?

[Anfrax666]

Just uploaded a couple photos showing the faulty part:





Hopefully the part can be identified as the contacts to resolder are still intact.

[Jonny b]

Need higher res pics bud, does the component have any ident near it?

[Anfrax666]

Here's a closer pic from a better camera: http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g290/A...c99545.jpg

No markings or idents that i can see. The actual chip itself had melted so nothing was recognisable. From the size of its footprint on the PCB though it looks similar to a few other chips that have the markings 'v6 95'

---

Just noticed that if you follow the top line of the exposed pcb wiring it leads to three holes/joints with '1' on one side and '14' on the other.

[cully]

Looks like a diode to me markings are R5 21 M i cant identify the type
but the cathode band it to the top of the board

all off the other diodes on the same board have the same markings i suspect its a standard diode used though out
at a guess any 1N4XXX series diode could be used

but first you need to find out why that diode has fried!

   

[cully]

the diode (d2) is connected between pins 7 and 14 on the yellow plug (20V JN)
it has effects on the oil pressure light and the stop light
i think it is probably component failure rather that external influence failure as the copper tracks on the board are still intact and not burned off!

the car should run without the dash connected but the stop light (pin 7) is controlled buy the ecu i believe, fingers crossed you have not fried the ECU!


  dash.pdf (Size: 163.64 KB / Downloads: 3)

[Eeyore]

yeh thats the broken part but not the fault itself. You could be putting a new on in and have the same thing happen again! D:

[Anfrax666]

Thanks every one who has replied, especially Cully for the information, greatly appeciated! Do you know where i could source a replacement Diode? Or is it just down to google? or buying another dash and extracting the part?

My car's at work atm, which im not due back till until monday now, so i will try starting it then without the dash in place. I've got the dash at home with me though so any repairs or bypass are possible over the weekend, just need to find the part and fingers crossed.

The stop light used to flash on a couple of seconds every now and then, but was very intermittent and at each mot/service it was told not to worry etc. The light wasn't on at time of driving though and first time i saw the oil light on was when it flashed rapidly after smoking. I'd also recently checked the oil so i knew it wasn't an issue with fluids but more electrical. I had wipers, main beams and was applying breaks as i turned into my industrial estate, is the possibility of trying to restart it whilst still having the lights and wipers set to come on be a cause of the issue? As in drawing to much power?

If on monday the ECU is fried, i assume matching a replacement for engine and model is a nightmare?

[Jonny b]

I can have a look Monday when Iam back at work, if we have any in stock I can post one to you!

[Anfrax666]

That would be great, happy to cover costs so let me know

[Anfrax666]

No luck starting the car without the dash installed, even tried jumping it today to keep up the power up but no luck. Does this mean for sure the ECU is fried or is it worth trying the new diode/ PCB ?