Good Weekend and a cracking start to the week. (NOT)

[londondan86]

Firstly on friday the missus had the car down at a local park when some nob decided to break into the car and stole her perse. Ruined lock and damaged rear window, could be worse.

Today trip to town and the temp starts to get insainly high, heaters on, limp to sainsbury's. She was leaking coolant from the little blank I had put on the rad. Open the rad cap - hisssssssssssssssssssssssss. Still some coolant in so I limped back home (only 2 miles) keeping the temp below 90*.

Open the bonnet and there is mayo on the dipstick and oil filler cap and a re-pressurised coolant system. HG gone

Quick search on ebay and I found this, is this too cheap and should be avoided or is it good. It is "3+1+1 NOTCH" and MLS.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120367393313? ... 677wt_1064

Also how much should I expect to pay to have the head skimmed and pressure tested?

Cheers all.

[mark_airey]

Firstly on friday the missus had the car down at a local park when some nob decided to break into the car and stole her perse. Ruined lock and damaged rear window, could be worse.

Today trip to town and the temp starts to get insainly high, heaters on, limp to sainsbury's. She was leaking coolant from the little blank I had put on the rad. Open the rad cap - hisssssssssssssssssssssssss. Still some coolant in so I limped back home (only 2 miles) keeping the temp below 90*.

Open the bonnet and there is mayo on the dipstick and oil filler cap and a re-pressurised coolant system. HG gone

Quick search on ebay and I found this, is this too cheap and should be avoided or is it good. It is "3+1+1 NOTCH" and MLS.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120367393313? ... 677wt_1064

Also how much should I expect to pay to have the head skimmed and pressure tested?

Cheers all.

That sucks mate, I really really really recommend spending more on the HG for a decent one though! They are all MLS

and a skim should be about £30, can't remember how much pressure test is!

You would also need head bolts too

[londondan86]

That sucks mate, I really really really recommend spending more on the HG for a decent one though! They are all MLS

and a skim should be about £30, can't remember how much pressure test is!

You would also need head bolts too [/quote]

Cheers mate. Anything you can recommend as your a full member of team orange engine bay. Lol
I think ive got head bolts covered im trying to get my bro in law to make me some studs out of something hard.

[mark_airey]

Cheers mate. Anything you can recommend as your a full member of team orange engine bay. Lol
I think ive got head bolts covered im trying to get my bro in law to make me some studs out of something hard.

Payene, Elring or Ruan's favourite, Victor Reinz

Oh and studs (as I understand it) would have to be really hard and then heat treated to be strong enough

An my engine bay currently looks like this.................

[n0v0s]

^lmao mark!

Gutted mate, skim the head and clean up the block really good with some sand paper.

[londondan86]

Just been looking on ecp and there are 3 different thicknesses, am I right in thinking that this is dependant on how much gets skimmed off.
Also do people leave the turbo in situ or remove first, so far ive got the engine locked, cambelt off, injector lines off, inlet mani off and vac pump off. Ive removed all the nuts on the exhuast mani which is free but wont clear the studs.
Any tips welcome.
Cheers

[bigcheez2k3]

Just been looking on ecp and there are 3 different thicknesses, am I right in thinking that this is dependant on how much gets skimmed off.
Also do people leave the turbo in situ or remove first, so far ive got the engine locked, cambelt off, injector lines off, inlet mani off and vac pump off. Ive removed all the nuts on the exhuast mani which is free but wont clear the studs.
Any tips welcome.
Cheers

Undo the downpipe where it meets the midpipe, should give you enough movement to clear them. Unless the turbo is held on somewhere, not taken one off.

[Ruan]

You've got to remove the studs out the head, then you can just leave the turbo behind - drop the spacers off and get 2 nuts on the stud, tighten together and remove.

And yeah, Victor Reinz gasket, Elring bolts IMO - lasted the longest for me.

Spend the extra on a decent gasket and bolts, more than worth it. Remember - thickest gasket reduces likelihood of blowing, but increases compression...

[mark_airey]

Remember - thickest gasket reduces likelihood of blowing, but increases compression...

Wrong way round is it not Mr Ellis? Thinnest gasket reduces the chance of it blowing and increases compression, thickest increases chance if it blowing and reduces compression, although for the actual difference in thickness I can't see it making that much difference overall TBH

[londondan86]

Got it stripped off finally today, lots of bolts that the haynes doesn't mension which was a pita as I was doing this for the first time.
Ended the day with this:







Big thanks to Mark, Ruan and others who have comented. I would rep but..... I am sure I will have more questions when it all goes back together! lol
The head is going off to the machine shop tomorrow so hopefully it will be going again soon, in the meantime I am driving this beast!

[mark_airey]

^^ I had one of those Toyota's Estima Lucida thingy, ironically for this thread it died of HG failure

And please tell me that you didn't sit the head down like that on the open valves with the cam still in hock:

[londondan86]

^^ I had one of those Toyota's Estima Lucida thingy, ironically for this thread it died of HG failure

And please tell me that you didn't sit the head down like that on the open valves with the cam still in hock:

Yea lucider 4x4 lol

You cant see in the pic but there is a socket under the towl in each corner. cheers tho

Edit: you just made me double check lol, I had left it like the second pic with the valves facing out.

[stevieg]

shitter about the head.

toyota lucida estima 2.2TD = bad boy car

[londondan86]

Right. Thought I would put this here rather than start a new thread, I have been putting the car back together today. Head is on and torqued up, cambelt is on, exhaust mani is on , thermostat housing is on, but then I got to the brake vac pump. The camshaft oil seal is sitting flush with the edge of the head so I tried to use the vac pump to jack the seal in but ended up snapping the bracket in 2! Fail.
Does anyone have any tips for getting this seal home, I dont have a socket big enough to go over it.

[londondan86]

Never mind, double fail! There is no seal on the vac pump end of the cam. Strange there was 2 in the kit.

[mark_airey]

Sorry, didn't see this last night and it looks like you have sussed it now, yeah your not ment to have a seal on the vac pump, the vac pump seals in with an "O" ring as that is how it gets its oil feed there are 2 in the kit because the kit will cover other cars/vans using the XUD9 that don't have a vac pump located there.

[londondan86]

Sorry, didn't see this last night and it looks like you have sussed it now, yeah your not ment to have a seal on the vac pump, the vac pump seals in with an "O" ring as that is how it gets its oil feed there are 2 in the kit because the kit will cover other cars/vans using the XUD9 that don't have a vac pump located there.

Yea, cheers bud. Should be ready for first start within the hour.

I will rep people for their help when I get to an actual computer!

[londondan86]

Well finished late last night although a loose jubilee which was too dark to find. Stopped a first start last night.
Found the water leak this morning and bled the coolant system. New problem is that she just wont fire, I'm guessing mega air lock in the fuel system but i'm just draining the battery flat, twice.

/rant

[londondan86]

Shes back running! Had to borrow some electricity from a mates MG to get her going but she goes.

I think the pump may be a tooth out as there is a bit of white timing smoke on idle when cold, I also had to advance the pump all the way on its sliders to get it to fire which means she nowsounds like a bag of nails but hey!

Just need to put cam covers back on an sort out induction routing as there is currrntly an open T2 which by the way had absolutely no play whatsoever despite over a year at ~2 bars of boost!