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Sam's 2.0 16v VNT ph1 rep HDi
#61
Really looking forward to more updates on this, ph1 build looks cool too!
So is this a 2.0 8v bottom end/2.2 mostly build? Or are you also flying the flag for the 2.0 16v HDI clan?
#62
(21-12-2016, 02:17 PM)MY95 Wrote: Really looking forward to more updates on this, ph1 build looks cool too!
So is this a 2.0 8v bottom end/2.2 mostly build? Or are you also flying the flag for the 2.0 16v HDI clan?


Still 2.0 bottom end so still a 2.0!


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#63
lots of work! Another interesting project! Big Grin Do the c4 vts brakes bolt straight on and use the original brake line fittings? could be a nice oem upgrade
#64
(21-12-2016, 03:07 PM)Eeyore Wrote: lots of work! Another interesting project! Big Grin Do the c4 vts brakes bolt straight on and use the original brake line fittings? could be a nice oem upgrade

Yup. Clearly you dont watch my videos Tongue

Need 16" wheels tho min
Wishes for more power...
#65
Excellent project, have a lot of love for phase1 looks
#66
(21-12-2016, 05:05 PM)Piggy Wrote:
(21-12-2016, 03:07 PM)Eeyore Wrote: lots of work! Another interesting project! Big Grin Do the c4 vts brakes bolt straight on and use the original brake line fittings? could be a nice oem upgrade

Yup. Clearly you dont watch my videos Tongue

Need 16" wheels tho min

Been watching 24/7 since the beginning and still haven't got up to that bit.
#67
(21-12-2016, 07:56 PM)Eeyore Wrote:
(21-12-2016, 05:05 PM)Piggy Wrote:
(21-12-2016, 03:07 PM)Eeyore Wrote: lots of work! Another interesting project! Big Grin Do the c4 vts brakes bolt straight on and use the original brake line fittings? could be a nice oem upgrade

Yup. Clearly you dont watch my videos Tongue

Need 16" wheels tho min

Been watching 24/7 since the beginning and still haven't got up to that bit.

206 brake upgrade video... But I highlight it fitting other vehicles too. 

Tiz indeed a good oem upgrade... Calipers and discs combo is heavy mind
Wishes for more power...
#68
Wow awesome update Big Grin

Serious amount of 16v derv builds happening now! next year should be incredibly interesting.
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Team Cyril
#69
Wahay, great update as usual Sam

Such an epic project this!
#70
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Engine progress.

Bottom end is now fully assembled.

Block was from the 305 estate build and is a 110 hdi 8v block from a 2003 Citroen Xsara. Block has been away to be honed and the top refaced.

Crank has had new bearings, smiley face forged conrods fitted with new bearings and arp bolts.

2.0 16v pistons from an 807 have been fitted with new OEM rings

Stock oil pump refitted and stock Ali sump.

Next stage is I am awaiting some uprated valve springs for the v35 dw12 cylinder head (head removed from a 2001 2.2 hdi Citroen C5). Once these springs arrive the head along with the springs will be going to local engineering place for a rebuild, skim etc ready to go onto the top of the freshly rebuilt block.

Exciting times ahead


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#71
Becoming a familiar "formula"

Lets all hope its worthwhile lol
Wishes for more power...
#72
Looking forward to this mate, been a while in the making, the phase 1 will make it all the more sleeper Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
#73
Yeah it's been in the pipeline almost 2 years!!


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#74
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Uprated valve springs arrived

Head was sent away to be de-coked, valve springs changed, head has had all new seals and a skim

Once it came back, I stripped the flaps etc out from the inlet and drilled and tapped the end hole and sealed with a bolt

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Next steps are to put the arp head studs on the block and get the head on and torqued down, fit rockers etc, cams and then I can move onto fitting clutch gearbox etc

Manifold plates have all been made so I can also start fabricating my manifold for the 2260



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#75
Nice progress. Looks like nother good build happening
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
#76
Great work Sam, such an epic build this Smile


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#77
Few little jobs done:

Made some stainless studs for the exhaust manifold which at the moment is just a laser cut 12mm mild steel plate awaiting some pipe work!

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Had to make a minor adjustment to the 8v pump bracket in order to clear the 16v head

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And sorted out a top engine mount bracket which will a) fit the 8v bottom end b) fit the 16v head and c) clear the fuel pump bracket!

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Crank seal also fitted and ready for clutch and gearbox is next jobs! And fitting of the arp studs and fitting timing belt, refitting ancillaries and getting ready to drop into car!

Thanks for reading



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#78
great work. So many shinies! Big Grin
#79
always a good to have another update. im following all these 16v builds with great interest and EVERYone seems to be using uprated valve springs. are they really that bad on these??
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
#80
I'm guessing its due to light springs in stock applications to keep friction losses down and they can get away with it as the engines dont need lots of revs as they're a modern diesel with modern turbochargers.

And that most modified engines are running much higher pressures in the ports which can hold a valve off the seat?
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
#81
(17-02-2017, 07:36 PM)welshpug Wrote: I'm guessing its due to light springs in stock applications to keep friction losses down and they can get away with it as the engines dont need lots of revs as they're a modern diesel with modern turbochargers.

And that most modified engines are running much higher pressures in the ports which can hold a valve off the seat?

Nothing to do with revs really, rather just exhaust and inlet pressure causing the valves to float.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
#82
I think mainly just because they know the main reason I rebuilt my entire car essentially started just because it was floating the inlets at 25psi..

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#83
I'd watch the alloygators. IMO they are shit as some enthusiastic cornering will remove them and then untill you stop you'll get the loose end smashing your body work every time the wheel goes round till you stop.

If you like your bodywork and drive hard I'd get rid of them and just learn not to crash into kerbs.

This is my Polo valver after it got attacked by the alloygator.

   
   
   
   
#84
(18-02-2017, 11:47 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: I'd watch the alloygators. IMO they are shit as some enthusiastic cornering will remove them and then untill you stop you'll get the loose end smashing your body work every time the wheel goes round till you stop.

If you like your bodywork and drive hard I'd get rid of them and just learn not to crash into kerbs.

This is my Polo valver after it got attacked by the alloygator.


Did you fit them yourself though chris???


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#85
(18-02-2017, 05:52 PM)Sambarker Wrote:
(18-02-2017, 11:47 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: I'd watch the alloygators. IMO they are shit as some enthusiastic cornering will remove them and then untill you stop you'll get the loose end smashing your body work every time the wheel goes round till you stop.

If you like your bodywork and drive hard I'd get rid of them and just learn not to crash into kerbs.

This is my Polo valver after it got attacked by the alloygator.


Did you fit them yourself though chris???


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[FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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#86
(18-02-2017, 05:52 PM)Sambarker Wrote:
(18-02-2017, 11:47 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: I'd watch the alloygators. IMO they are shit as some enthusiastic cornering will remove them and then untill you stop you'll get the loose end smashing your body work every time the wheel goes round till you stop.

If you like your bodywork and drive hard I'd get rid of them and just learn not to crash into kerbs.

This is my Polo valver after it got attacked by the alloygator.

Did you fit them yourself though chris???

I did but they were fitted properly as per the instructions.
TBH you could hardly fit them wrong.
#87
(21-02-2017, 06:34 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote:
(18-02-2017, 05:52 PM)Sambarker Wrote:
(18-02-2017, 11:47 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: I'd watch the alloygators. IMO they are shit as some enthusiastic cornering will remove them and then untill you stop you'll get the loose end smashing your body work every time the wheel goes round till you stop.

If you like your bodywork and drive hard I'd get rid of them and just learn not to crash into kerbs.

This is my Polo valver after it got attacked by the alloygator.

Did you fit them yourself though chris???

I did but they were fitted properly as per the instructions.
TBH you could hardly fit them wrong.


I disagree, my dad is an official alligator installer and I went on the training course with him. He also has all the proper alligator tools which I used to fit them. There is a knack to getting them on properly, which is why I haven't had any issues with mine. I'd say yours would be down to installer error, and perhaps a poor wheel/tyre combinations as they fit some wheel/tyres better than others


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#88
Some more progress on this today

8v motor out

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Now starting to swap all the ancillaries from this engine onto the new

Then stripped the head off the 8v motor and fitted a spare 16v head to use for mocking up purposes for the new manifold

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#89
Looking good pal how much fun and games it took to get out. Wish I had the space to do this with mine when I get a plan together of what I want to do.

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#90
(25-02-2017, 06:53 PM)mattbarker32 Wrote: Looking good pal how much fun and games it took to get out. Wish I had the space to do this with mine when I get a plan together of what I want to do.

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Engine out is a doddle when you've done it 10+ times before!


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