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306 xsi 2.0 2000 struggling to start
#1
Hello all this is my first thread and I'm new to here/forums in general, thought I'd try it out instead of struggling alone all the time lol,
Anyway I just purchased my 306 2.0 xsi in moonstone blue , love the color and loving the car so far however I have a few issues but ill start with the one that the thread is for, 
Charged up battery as car was sat for some time before I bought it and it was very sluggish to start , 
This seems to have made no difference as it still struggles just the same turning over at around 1 secon per turn which almost sounds just like a dying battery but it cannot be this as I've replaced it.
Further to this two times in a row now once per day, it has failed to start at all (like the immobiliser isn't registering) turning keyall electrics on but no response from starter at all, after sitting with it going off / on with ignition for around 7-8 minutes it'll decide to turn over and fire up but still with the struggle.
My theory is starter motor but just wanted to be sure as it's quite odd...
I've done alot of mechanics before so I'm defiantly up for the jobs it's just Ive aways been a ford man, only recently changed to peugeot, so neeneed to learn the common faults..

Sorry for long post haha.

P.s alternator was making a high pitced whine for first couple of days but this *seemed* to go away...
#2
Battery terminals tight?
Earth points esp gearbox top good and clean?

Usually the earth points...
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
#3
You know what I hadn't thought of that I will check there first but doesn't it seem at all like starter to you?

Terminals are tight but ill check the earth's
#4
As adam said battery terminals, then earth's and then crank sensor I'd say
#5
Measure your voltages across different points, then cranking voltages.
Could be the battery isn't good too. These do suffer with poor earth points though.

Crank sensor would make it not start, but it wouldn't make it sluggish and it'd cut out if the signal disappeared
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
#6
Well as I've said battery being duff isn't really my 1st guess as sometimes it'll not turn over at all but then a few try later it will turn over fine , that's the bit that's thrown me a bit
#7
(11-01-2016, 10:42 PM)Seabrook3607 Wrote: Well as I've said battery being duff isn't really my 1st guess as sometimes it'll not turn over at all but then a few try later it will turn over fine , that's the bit that's thrown me a bit

I'd say crank sensor then
#8
Ok cheers ill give it ago
#9
(11-01-2016, 06:23 PM)Seabrook3607 Wrote: P.s alternator was making a high pitced whine for first couple of days but this *seemed* to go away...

Check that the alternator hasn't seized up and that this isn't the cause of your slow cranking?
Current Car: Lexus CT200h 1.8 138, 2013, 19,500 miles
Previous Car: VW Passat 2.0 TDi 140, 2005, 136,000 miles
Previous Car: Peugeot 306 XLdt (stock!), 150,000 miles (I miss this car Sad)
#10
Thanks guys managed to get it sorted by cleaning up all the earth points and terminals!
However that's not the end of the troubles lol should I set up a new post?
#11
Whats up with it?
#12
Cambelt sounds like a mouse is stuck in it , going to be needing to do rear axle soon , lacks power for a 2ltr xsi it's not very great with acceleration , and exhaust sounds like has a blow in middle but pressure is perfect. couple more bits too but got to think lol
#13
(12-01-2016, 05:38 PM)Seabrook3607 Wrote: Cambelt sounds like a mouse is stuck in it , going to be needing to do rear axle soon , lacks power for a 2ltr xsi it's not very great with acceleration , and exhaust sounds like has a blow in middle but pressure is perfect. couple more bits too but got to think lol

Cambelt is either too tight or tensioners are on their way out.

Rear beam is a simple thing just find a tidy one.exhaust is another easy one to rectify,and down on power could be a few things
#14
I know the only one of those I'm not exactly clued up on is cambelt , can't say I've done one before I know what it's all about etc but haven't done one in one of these. And the fact it's whining is a very bad sign right ?

Fact it's down on power could be alot I know but not sure exactly where to start! Runs smooth as a di just seems to be a hit underpowered in my opinion , (could just be me as I'm used to a little polo gti at 135 bhp that thing flew) it's not slow just I'm sure it should be quicker of the button than it is
#15
Cambelt isn't that difficult tbh and yes the whining is good a good thing!

I'd start at the basics like a good service including spark plugs them look at things like sensors etc

And the polo was lighter so would feel quicker than the XSI
#16
Yes I've just done the service and she loved that , much smoother running now , it's the cambelt I'm most concerned with now I've done clutches etc so done hard work but just haven't done a cambelt but I want to do It
#17
All I can say is make sure you've pinned it up right and the bottom pulley hasn't slipped.once you've done that it's no more difficult than any other 16v engine.

If the timing is out that could be the cause if lack of performance
#18
Could do with a Haynes for this one o reckon , as I say I'm not sure on how to do a cambelt , confident I could do it but need to know the procedure..
#19
Also look for auto data on it.tbh it's the same engine as the gti6 so there's an FAQ on the 306gti6 forum on the cambelt change
#20
The bottom pullies have a habit of slipping meaning you may accidentally time it up wrong. Before you do change the belt, have a good look at the pulley. There should be two arrows that should line up. If they dont, pulley has slipped and dont even think about timing it.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
#21
Yeah I know if they don't line up then if you time it there it'll bust the engine up I'm aware of that just not sure of the procedure is all, so what causes it to make the high pitch whine it makes , it comes and goes :/
#22
(12-01-2016, 08:57 PM)Niall Wrote: The bottom pullies have a habit of slipping meaning you may accidentally time it up wrong. Before you do change the belt, have a good look at the pulley. There should be two arrows that should line up. If they dont, pulley has slipped and dont even think about timing it.

^^
This!! If it has slipped I'd recommend a soild pulley ad they are the same cost as a pug one.
#23
Could be a bearing on its way out (notice it does it at all when the engines warm or cold?) or it could be the belts too tight but you only notice it once warm because the engine generally quietens down.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
#24
I'm not understanding the pulley slipping part of it Confused sorry as I said new to this area of mechanics
#25
(12-01-2016, 09:09 PM)Seabrook3607 Wrote: Yeah I know if they don't line up then if you time it there it'll bust the engine up I'm aware of that just not sure of the procedure is all, so what causes it to make the high pitch whine it makes , it comes and goes :/

Could be a failing bearing in a tensioner or the belt itself rubbing on part of the cambelt casing.

(12-01-2016, 09:11 PM)Seabrook3607 Wrote: I'm not understanding the pulley slipping part of it Confused sorry as I said new to this area of mechanics

The bottom pulley is made up of a metal inner section, a rubber 'damping' middle section and another metal outer section.over time the rubber deteriorates and it slips on the inner metal part.
#26
I see , so it's possible I may well need more than just a cambelt kit then
#27
So does the cambelt run the water pumps on these ? And does a bearing/tensioner come in cambelt kit? I'm not sure as never had to buy one

P.s sorry to come across as a dumbass just haven't had to do a cambelt yet is all
#28
Yes cambelt runs the waterpump and there is 2 tensioners in the kit.

The kit is cheap enough at Euro car parts.just picked one up for my GTI6 for less than 60 quid


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