Just a question, do you currently have a leak with the coolant system or has that now been resolved?
If you replaced the radiator with a (brand) new one and correctly bled the system there technically should not be an issue. You should have pressure in the coolant system, hot air through the cabin begins at around 65 degrees on the gauge and your engine shouldn't really be any hotter than 90 degrees when fully warmed up and ticking over.
Your top hose should be very hot when the thermostat opens however if there is an airlock in the engine block behind the thermostat, the thermostat will not open, resulting in an improper bleed. The sensor is essentially reading the temperature of the airlock, not the water. Obviously not to be patronizing but it took me a few goes to find the optimum way of bleeding the system in the right order and timing.
I would strongly recommend changing your coolant temperature gauge on the engine block and ensuring a good bleed. I generally see this as an item that should be replaced every so often anyway (You will need to re-bleed). A gauge is only an indication of what the coolant temperature is when it is cycling around the system and a sensor is prone to losing its accuracy with wear. Is the car actually hot or is it just a dodgy reading etc. When you describe the car as overheating, when does this occur? Does it rapidly fluctuate up and down during driving or just get hotter and hotter during warm up and never stabilizes?
If you replaced the radiator with a (brand) new one and correctly bled the system there technically should not be an issue. You should have pressure in the coolant system, hot air through the cabin begins at around 65 degrees on the gauge and your engine shouldn't really be any hotter than 90 degrees when fully warmed up and ticking over.
Your top hose should be very hot when the thermostat opens however if there is an airlock in the engine block behind the thermostat, the thermostat will not open, resulting in an improper bleed. The sensor is essentially reading the temperature of the airlock, not the water. Obviously not to be patronizing but it took me a few goes to find the optimum way of bleeding the system in the right order and timing.
I would strongly recommend changing your coolant temperature gauge on the engine block and ensuring a good bleed. I generally see this as an item that should be replaced every so often anyway (You will need to re-bleed). A gauge is only an indication of what the coolant temperature is when it is cycling around the system and a sensor is prone to losing its accuracy with wear. Is the car actually hot or is it just a dodgy reading etc. When you describe the car as overheating, when does this occur? Does it rapidly fluctuate up and down during driving or just get hotter and hotter during warm up and never stabilizes?