darrenjlobb's Adaptronic Managed Compound Blown Derv Bus Build

[darrenjlobb]

Evening.

Got the ECU and electrical kit all mounted up now, decided to mount everything inside to keep it dry / out of harms way, and just to centralise it all for a hopefully tidier install.

First step was to cut out a piece of ally plate to use as the panel:



Then bent it into shape to fit the dash:




Then there was a fairly epic fail in taking photos, so as if by magic its appeared in the car, and all the main stuff is bolted up to it:





Before getting to far with the wiring etc, I wanted to confirm the triggering / inputs on the ECU to be sure what I had physically on the engine was going to work. So just hooked up the reluctor sensor on the crank to CAS1 input and the hall sensor on the camshaft to CAS2, and opened up the scope in software to confirm I was getting signal. First thing I noticed was the polarity was incorrect for the crank sensor, so simple job of swapping the wires (joys of built in ECU scope!) was then getting the correct waveform, and after setting ECU to look at the falling edge, was getting a correct processed trigger for the 60-2 flywheel detection. Did some math and worked out period offsets and obviously the 6 degree increments, and also the TDC offset from the reset point.

This was all looking good, but as had been a suspect on my mind from the start, the Cam reset was proving to be a pain. To explain in simple terms, the ECU needs to see a reset signal from cam / dizzy or something on the engine, so allow the ECU to know which rotation of the cycle the crank is in, as obviously each cycle the crank has to do a full two turns / 720 degrees, The HDI uses a trailing reset design on the camshaft, whereby it can see a rising edge every 90 degrees on the cam (so 180 crank degrees) and it then staggers the falling edges so it can count the number of crank pulses per each cam reset duration, which enables the ECU to detect which cylinder period its in. The advantage of this is a super quick cam sync (engine only has to turn 180 degrees before it can sync, and fire the injectors / run. The disadvantage for me, is there is no out the box way to set this up inside of Sekuku for the E1280. It is possible to achieve with custom config files, which basically lock out the trigger settings, and do the work behind the scenes. While this would have been possible, I really wanted to be able to use stock triggering within the software, to make things more flexible in the future, and save delays now having to contact Andy etc at Adaptronic to come up with a custom file for this setup...

So what I ended up doing was ripping the cam cover / rocker cover back off, and by using a slitting disk on the die grinder I was just able to get access to chop off 3 of the pickup lugs on the rear of the cam pulley, to give me the single reset pulse I was wanting:



I was now able to setup a single phase cam reset, so the ECU knows its in its first 360 degree cycle of its full 720 when it see's the falling edge of the cam reset pulse. Means the engine has to do two rev's before it syncs / fires, but its really of little bother to me!



Then needed to move the car, and got fed up with the heavy steering while trying to push it around, so decided to wire up / bleed the power steering, which resulted in a bad hose connection, so had to replace that, and then had working Epas again!:



And a very rare action shot! Can tell the Derv Mafia were around as someone else clearly had camera in hand!




Got engine loom all fixed / sorted out in the engine bay:




Bulkhead connectors hooked in:




Then started to tidy up the wiring spaghetti that had formed inside the car!




For those who are interested a brief explanation as to what is going on here, Top left is the ECU itself, An adaptronic E1280 from Au, with its main loom connector in the bottom, and from the top can just see some of the status lights, the laptops USB connection and also a serial input from an Innovate wideband controller.
Below that is the main power distro, main relay and fuse board, everything here is totally isolated from the 306's OE loom, with its own feed to +ve and earth. To the right at the top is the injector driver box as per my previous post, this basically drives the solenoids in the common rail injectors from the stock injector pulse from the 1280. Below that are some terminal strips, largely multipurpose, but basically the two 5v sensor rails, sensor grounds, and also some pull up resistors to enable some stock sensors to work.
Below that are some of the relays, obviously still in progress but for things like rad fans, epas, fuel pump, injector driver etc. Then on the right is the wideband controller, the DBW card for the turbo actuator drive, and then some gauge controllers at the bottom.


Engine at this point was motoring, and triggering correctly, so in theory, after some initial map calibration for main / pilot timing and duration etc, the engine could potentially run. But wanted to confirm my math for the triggering, and also period offset angles was correct. Or put simple, I wanted to make sure that when the ECU thinks its at x degrees, the engine actually is in that position. So bodged together a timing light adaptor so I could take a pulse from one of the un used ignition outputs to run my timing light. I can then set the ignition output to lock at 0 degrees, and then use the stock TDC mark I made on the crank pulley to confirm we are at true TDC when the ECU thinks it is.



This fantastically bodged looking devices is (just that!) basically just a coil with built i ignitor, conected to a ht lead tester LED, with the timing light inductive clamp attached, and then all wired back to the crock clips for power, and 1 extra trigger wire to connector the ign1 trigger output on the ecu. So can easily be plugged in / out whenever required.

So got this connected up, and motored the engine, and confirmed that A - the timing was stable, and B - it was exactly in time, the TDC marks lined up perfectly under the timing light strobe, so this is good news!

Shot of it in action, not that you can see much, but basically during the engine build, I marked the crank pulley and engine casting at TDC, so I could easily put a timing light on it in an accessible place!



Thanks for looking!

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Oh and a Derv Mafia xmas meet up yard photo!